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07-26-2011, 04:30 PM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Iowa
Posts: 15
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1981 G1 Solenoid
Is it comon for both forward and reverse to go out at the same time? It wont turn over in either position.
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07-26-2011, 05:28 PM | #2 |
Getting Wild
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Glendale Arizona
Posts: 94
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Re: 1981 G1 Solenoid
Have you checked to make sure you've got voltage up to the solenoids? Seems kind of unlikely that both would take a dump at the same time, but I suppose anything is possible.
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07-26-2011, 08:42 PM | #3 |
Getting Wild
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: mich.
Posts: 90
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Re: 1981 G1 Solenoid
check the fuses.
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07-26-2011, 08:56 PM | #4 |
Gone Crazy
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Chesterfield, Va
Posts: 6,021
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Re: 1981 G1 Solenoid
One bad ground will shut them both down.
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07-27-2011, 08:24 AM | #5 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Iowa
Posts: 15
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Re: 1981 G1 Solenoid
I don't know what to do. I have voltage going to the solenoids and I have voltage leaving them, but has soon has I hook up the starter I can not get any voltage to come out of the solenoids. I have tested the starter and it is ok and I cleaned the ground so it has good contact. All I get is a single banging noise out of the solenoids. Anyone have any sugestions?
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07-27-2011, 10:10 PM | #6 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Posts: 177
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Re: 1981 G1 Solenoid
The solenoids switch the negative side of the battery to either A1 (forward) or A2 (reverse) on the starter. The positive side of the battery goes to F2 on the starter, through the field winding and out F1, then through the solenoid that did not get energized and on to either A2 (forward) or A1 (reverse). So with the forward solenoid energized place the negative lead of your tester on A1 and positive lead on A2 to check for voltage. Reverse the leads to test with the reverse solenoid energized. With both solenoids off you must have positive voltage at F2 and F1 on the starter. Place the negative test lead directly on the negative battery post for this test. Positive voltage at F2 but not at F1 would indicate an open field winding. Follow the lead from F1 to the solenoids. Check for positive voltage on both sides of the solenoids. If this is ok you should be getting proper voltage to the starter. As crash has already stated a bad ground anywhere along the circuit will prevent operation. You may bypass the solenoids to test the starter by simply hooking up booster cables to the battery and to A1 and A2, it doesn't matter which way they go on but which ever terminal will be negative the lead must be removed from the starter or a dead short will be created through one of the solenoids. If you do this tape up the lead that is taken off as it will have positive voltage on it and could also short to ground if it contacts metal. The contacts within the solenoids can become pitted and prevent the proper amount of currant to flow to allow operation. You can read voltages ok as the tester only needs a small amount of currant to flow. Read the resistance across the contacts of the solenoids to check for this, you will want to read very low resistance, any high reading indicates a problem. You could also still have a problem with the starter commutator, if it is badly worn it may turn with no load on it but not work when a load is on it. Hope you find the problem.
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07-28-2011, 11:25 AM | #7 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Iowa
Posts: 15
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Re: 1981 G1 Solenoid
Thanks for the help. I have tomorrow off and will be working on it. I will let you know what I find.
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07-28-2011, 12:40 PM | #8 |
Getting Wild
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Glendale Arizona
Posts: 94
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Re: 1981 G1 Solenoid
That's some good stuff right there. Copied that into my golf cart folder.
Thanks |
07-10-2013, 06:41 AM | #9 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 635
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Re: 1981 G1 Solenoid
Good Info
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