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Old 07-02-2018, 09:06 PM   #1
joop1881
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Default Welded Solenoid?

Good evening, ladies and gentlemen;

I have searched and searched and read and I am at the end of my rope. I have come to the masses for consultation!

Here's where I have been and where I am at: restoring a 1990 DS, 36v, single solenoid, resistor cart. Started with a new battery pack and studied the wiring diagram to fix a couple of wiring issues due to time (and rats). Everything seemed to be running fine, so I added a battery meter successfully then followed that up with a 12v horn and 12v light kit wired to 12v in the middle of the pack. I believe that caused my first blown solenoid. Immediately after I wired the light kit the solenoid was dead. Disconnected the light, replaced the solenoid (36v amazon special) and purchased a voltage reducer to run the lights and horn. I believe I have everything wired according to the plans and the cart seemed to run perfect.

Then.. I tried to rewire on the reverse buzzer that had been disabled years ago. Admittedly, I had it connected with wire nuts (I know, I know...). It didn't buzz but I finished my nightly ride anyway and decided I would take another look at the buzzer later or maybe just the buzzer was busted. Came home, parked, put it on the charger. Couple hours later I went out in the garage and the cart is burning hot. Ripped out the buzzer and disconnected from solenoid. Ever since the cart gets hot fast and drains very quick and will run in the off position. After some research it sounds like the solenoid welded.

I don't even know where to start. I want to make sure I fix the issue before replacing the solenoid again.

Is the issue with the wiring of the reducer, the accessories, faulty/incorrect solenoid(also didn't know about diode), the v-glide, or the d@mn buzzer.....?

thanks in advance for any advice.
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Old 07-03-2018, 10:27 AM   #2
Lochlin
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Default Re: Welded Solenoid?

Well, I don't your cart specifically but know resistor carts in general. It does seem like your solenoid is staying on and the heat is dissipating through the resistors which is creating the heat. There is good news in that, as you have no controller you need not be concerned about burning it up. Resistors are pretty rugged so those should be fine.

With regard to the solenoid itself, are you using something called a "continuous duty" one? Continuous duty means that they are designed to always be closed when the cart is in operation. Most automotive solenoids and a lot of cart ones are not continuous duty and only designed to be closed during the starting process. If you replace the solenoid (and it looks like you are going to have to) just make sure to get the right one. The wrong ones will weld. Obviously, you want a 48v solenoid and not a 36v one.

With regard to the reducer, buzzer, accessories, etc. I don't see how those can have any impact on the solenoid whatsoever as the only thing that should be impacting it are the key switch / v-glide. Again, I don't know your specific cart. I am only talking in general. A good test would be to see if your solenoid is getting voltage on the solenoid's small terminals when it shouldn't be. In other words, when the cart is at rest there should be no voltage going to the solenoid at the small terminals. If there is then the problem is somewhere other than the solenoid.
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Old 07-03-2018, 04:13 PM   #3
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Default Re: Welded Solenoid?

I plan to replace the solenoid. So, I should be looking for a 48v continuous duty?

What are some common causes of a welded solenoid? I suspect my v-glide.
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Old 07-03-2018, 05:35 PM   #4
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Default Re: Welded Solenoid?

Joop, look at my fairly recent threads concerning this type of cart. I think it will help you figure this out. There are some nice diagrams there too for your reference.

I don't know why you would need a 48V solenoid.
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Old 07-03-2018, 05:36 PM   #5
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Default Re: Welded Solenoid?

Also, I don't think there is a diode on that solenoid.
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Old 07-03-2018, 05:48 PM   #6
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Default Re: Welded Solenoid?

That's right, no diode on the resistor coil drive system and not need for a 48v solenoid in a 36v system.
Check to see if the pedal is coming all the way up and the wiper in the V-glide is going to it's off place...... if the copper pads and wiper contact get burnt and pitted (normal wear) they will hang up and not return to zero resulting in the solenoid being left engaged and the cart trying to go a bit. Hope this helps
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Old 07-03-2018, 05:56 PM   #7
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Default Re: Welded Solenoid?

Thanks, Moon. I was confused by the 48v comment as well.

Certainly trying to cobble together as much info as I can. Bout to test the solenoid for possible reversed key switch.
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Old 07-03-2018, 06:10 PM   #8
Lochlin
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Default Re: Welded Solenoid?

Quote:
Originally Posted by joop1881 View Post
Thanks, Moon. I was confused by the 48v comment as well.

Certainly trying to cobble together as much info as I can. Bout to test the solenoid for possible reversed key switch.
Sorry! I was thinking about a different poster who had upgraded from 36 to 48v.

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Old 07-03-2018, 06:30 PM   #9
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Default Re: Welded Solenoid?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lochlin View Post
Sorry! I was thinking about a different poster who had upgraded from 36 to 48v.

Don't feel left out, I just did it the other day criss-crossing 3 threads I was helping with....
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Old 07-03-2018, 07:07 PM   #10
joop1881
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Default Re: Welded Solenoid?

No worries, Loch. Thanks for your help.

If im performing the continuity test right, she is certainly welded. New one on order, sans diode.

I’ve always had trouble with the V-glide. Worn but not terrible pitting or anything. The lever has some even wear. I’ve had to adjust the pedal to make complete contact with Last pad. Even then, I have to jam the pedal down to get it there. I’m afraid with the adjustment that it prevents the wiper from returning to zero. Could that cause the constant power welding the solenoid? It didnt roll in “idle” before the solenoid welded.
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