1995 Par Car 2 stroke spark issue

[Allshow]

I replaced the ignition module and it ran great for about 30 seconds. Now it only sparks when you first hit the gas pedal. If you hit the gas on and off quickly it will try to start. Any suggestions?

[backyard]

Possibly the microswitch is going bad. Its under the floor behind the gas pedal. When you press the gas pedal a plunger extends allowing the switch to make a connection. That connection goes to the starter solenoid then to the coil then the ignition module.

Try jacking up the rear wheels. Find the microswitch and use some a jumper to bypass the microswitch. Then turn the key to forward. Caution, the cart will crank up and wheels will turn and there is no way to turn it off unless you remove the jumper and release the gas pedal besides removing the battery cable.

If the cart runs fine after you jump the microswitch, then you need a new one.

[backyard]

What is the primary resistance of the coil you have?

[Allshow]

Thanks. I'll check the microswitch. How do you check the resistance with a voltmeter? Right now I only get one spark when the peddle is depressed. It does that every time you press it.

[backyard]

Primary resistance: one lead on + terminal and one lead on the - terminal.

[backyard]

Also you can hook a test light on the + side of the coil and ground the other end of the test light to see if you have fire when the gas pedal is pressed.

If the light goes out when pressing the gas pedal it isn't the coil, ignition module, spark plug or wire.

If the light stays on then all it can be is either the coil, ignition module, spark plug, or plug wire.

[backyard]

Make sure your engine is grounded good too.

[Lochlin]

Was that a new module? Unfortunately, a spark or two that quickly fades is a telltale sign that the module has failed. If it was new you may want to see if you can return it and get a replacement although a lot of suppliers won't take those back. I had two of those buggers fail in the last two years (two different carts) and a spark or two is exactly what I saw with each.

Those modules MUST have at least 3.5 ohms of resistance associated with them or they will fail. I actually use 5 ohms (3 in the coil and 2 in an external ballast resistor).

I think what happened is that when Columbia produced these carts they put heavily resisted coils in them. However, that type of heavy resistance isn't available in typical golf cart coils so that, when the original coil goes bad it gets replaced with one that didn't have the same resistance. Those modules burn up quick as a result. When there is a lot of resistance, though, they last for years.

[Allshow]

I replaced all of the grounds. Same issue. The test light stays on for the positive side of the coil during cranking. I set the voltmeter at 200 and tested the coil and get 5.1. I'm not sure if I'm checking it right though.

[backyard]

If you test light stays on constantly, without turning off at any point, while your pressing the gas, then it has to be something on the other side such as the coil, spark plug, plug wire, engine ground, or ignition module.

If you have 5.1 ohms primary resistance, that should be plenty. That sounds awful high just for a coil to me.
What kind of coil is it?
Does it say "External Resistor Required" or "No External Resistor Required" or something on it.

Unfortuneately it probably is the ignition module, like Lochlin says. He has fooled with enough of those to be an expert at those in my opinion.