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06-05-2016, 11:58 PM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 27
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Starting over help
Hello. I have come to the conclusion that whoever we bought our Club Car from, should have labeled all of the spliced wires.
I am starting from scratch and need suggestions on the best way to wire our 48v (6, 8v batteries). Currently we have a LED light bar up front, rear led lights, a marine grade radio, overhead speakers, front winch, solar panel, and (2) in-dash 12v outlets. There is a toggle switch in the radio area for the lights. Except the winch, everything was connected through a 220w 48v to 12v converter/reducer. I believe the red output wire is bad since testing with multimeter worked on other wires not the red. From what I can tell, the radio, front led light bar, and something else used in-line fuses, not a fuse block. We have a in dash voltage meter and a overhead digital meter. Hopefully that is everything. |
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06-06-2016, 12:24 AM | #2 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Houston
Posts: 903
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Re: Starting over help
Wire all your accessories from the reducer. You can wire the 12v "hot" coming from the reducer into a split box and run the power for each accessory from the split box. Keep in mind that if you only have a 10 amp reducer you might end up with too much draw when using all accessories at once. I would opt for a 30 amp reducer.
Wire the voltage reducer INPUT off the entire battery pack. Then run your 12v hot and ground to a split box where you connect the accessories. |
06-06-2016, 06:32 AM | #3 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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Re: Starting over help
i would go with a fuse box set up like this
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06-06-2016, 01:01 PM | #4 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 27
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Re: Starting over help
Thank your for your help. Currently there is/was a 20amp 240w reducer, however I think the Red positive output is bad. We are replacing it.
What exactly is a split box? I pretty sure using the same gauge wire is the way to go, but whoever wired it mixed gauges, and colors. The yellow wire from 4-wire reducer was spliced into white wire. |
06-06-2016, 01:58 PM | #5 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Houston
Posts: 903
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Re: Starting over help
Split box is a fused box of terminals or an Unfused box where one input (and ground) is split into multiple terminals. Graphics above are exactly what you need.
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06-06-2016, 02:18 PM | #6 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Oregon City, Or
Posts: 1,977
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Re: Starting over help
A split box, in house wiring terms, is a junction box where all hots, neutrals and grounds are connected either directly or through buss bars.
I would recommend Crash's suggestion because all the accessories need to be fused and having a central location for the fuses aids troubleshooting. There are good reasons for your car having fuse panels. Edit-Rats, I have to learn how to type faster . |
06-06-2016, 02:50 PM | #7 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 251
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Re: Starting over help
For a little bit of effort and not a lot of money, you can mark those spliced wires with colored electrical tape to make identification a little bit easier...
http://www.harborfreight.com/colored...ack-66462.html |
06-06-2016, 06:22 PM | #8 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 27
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Re: Starting over help
Thanks for all the help. I have a few more questions.
1. When doing a multi-meter test on the converter, the only wire we didnt get a reading on was the Red, which was an output. It was a 48V dc to 12V dc 20Amax 240Wmax converter. Is this normal or should there be a reading? |
06-06-2016, 06:48 PM | #9 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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Re: Starting over help
are you getting 12v from the converter ?
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06-06-2016, 10:16 PM | #10 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 27
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Re: Starting over help
We tested both output wires and the red one showed no voltage. The other showed 12. We also did ohm test and all but red worked. We are replacing the converter anyway, I just wanted to make sure this wasn't normal.
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Tags |
48v, converter, fuse block, wiring |
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