‘85 club car brake issue

[Kazanski]

I went to do a simple drum brake refurb (springs, pads, drums) on my club car ds with the old pre ‘95 brakes since the braking power has diminished over the past few years and with a cart over 30 years old I figured I would give it a fresh start. I have had to tighten the adjusters over the years to keep things stopping with no issues but the brakes have never been great. Last fall I noticed some popping while breaking, cart would slow then pop then come to a stop (also why I was looking to replace everything).

I replaced everything on the drivers side, took 15min and was good to go, tighted the adjuster to just before it was grabbing, and put the wheel back on. When I got to the passenger side, that’s when the problems hit. I got it taken apart and when I put it back together the bottom spring had no tension, even when in the top and bottom grooves (with new springs). I turned the adjustment bolt as far out as it would go and it still wouldn’t hit the rotors. I checked that I ordered the correct pads and even tried to swap them out and the same issue. Adjusted the equalizer to be sure that it wasn’t something with the Cable tension (even though the brake should stop regardless if I max out the adjustment bolt).

So, I decided to change out the cables thinking that was the popping that I had been hearing and maybe the cables were shot. The same issue.

So I decided to change the brake blocks as they were pretty old and same issue.

Regardless of what I did there was always no tension on the bottom spring and when maxing our the adjustment bolt it never hits the drum (and yes I tried the drum from the other side).
I focused my attention on the brake actuator (the slide part at the bottom of the brake). I took it apart, cleaned it, greased it, and put it back in. It slides independently and is in good shape, checked other side to be sure I wasn’t missing any pieces, downloaded the parts diagram and service manual, took it apart and put it back together 10-15 times and still nothing.

So, Only the drivers side brake works (and not that well) and I have spent roughly 10 hours and a few hundred dollars for brakes that are worse with all new parts than the ones they replaced.

Any suggestions are appreciated - a few options I am considering:
1. Since they no longer make the brake assembly, can I replace both sides with the ‘95+ version?
2. Should I just replace it with Ausco disc brakes?
3. If I don’t find the source of the problem, do I run the risk of spending more money just to have the two options above not work?

Apologies for all the details, hoping someone has some ideas.

[Fairtax4me]

There are two different sets of shoes that Club car used.
One set is marked with a 17L and a 17T. The 17T shoe is Shorter than the 17L. The friction material is the same, its the frame of the shoe that's shorter.

The other set is usually marked with a 10 on each side of the shoe frame in one corner and these shoes are all the exact same size.
More than likely your cart needs a set of the number 10 shoes. IF you got a set of 17 shoes, and have both T shoes on the same side, they will be far too short for the adjuster to even come close to making them work.
Some aftermarket shoes may not have any markings on them at all, which can make it really difficult to tell which is which unless you look at them very closely. Aftermarket shoes are generally crap and won't stop worth a darm.

Check for numbers on your old shoes, and get the right set of OEM shoes from Revolution Golf Cars. The real ones are made by Nissin, which is a Japanese manufacturer.

[Kazanski]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

There are two different sets of shoes that Club car used.
One set is marked with a 17L and a 17T. The 17T shoe is Shorter than the 17L. The friction material is the same, its the frame of the shoe that's shorter.

The other set is usually marked with a 10 on each side of the shoe frame in one corner and these shoes are all the exact same size.
More than likely your cart needs a set of the number 10 shoes. IF you got a set of 17 shoes, and have both T shoes on the same side, they will be far too short for the adjuster to even come close to making them work.
Some aftermarket shoes may not have any markings on them at all, which can make it really difficult to tell which is which unless you look at them very closely. Aftermarket shoes are generally crap and won't stop worth a darm.

Check for numbers on your old shoes, and get the right set of OEM shoes from Revolution Golf Cars. The real ones are made by Nissin, which is a Japanese manufacturer.

Thanks for the reply, I will take a look at them but distinctly remember all being 17L shoes, if that’s the case any other ideas?

[Fairtax4me]

Then you have the wrong shoes. Send those back.
The #17 shoes are for carts with self adjusting brakes.
You need the #10 shoes which are for carts with manual adjust brakes.

They look similar, but they are different.

[Kazanski]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

Then you have the wrong shoes. Send those back.
The #17 shoes are for carts with self adjusting brakes.
You need the #10 shoes which are for carts with manual adjust brakes.

They look similar, but they are different.

Thanks again - So based on that I am guessing these won't work either:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was hoping to get them quickly so was trying to use amazon for the weekend - I see revolution has a set that are close to $80 but I am assuming like you said you get what you pay for....

[Kazanski]

So yeah, just took the brakes apart for what feels like the 100th time and you were right - 2x17L and 2x17t with both the L's on one side and both T's on the other. So.... I at least evened them out (assumed that L stands for leading and T stands for Trailing) and at least both sides are engaging at this point, but braking is not good which I am assuming is due to the Manual v. Auto adjusting. So I will await the new shoes and hopefully that clears everything up.

thanks again for the info, I feel like an idiot for not seeing that in the first place...

mike

[Sergio]

Originally Posted by Kazanski

So yeah, just took the brakes apart for what feels like the 100th time and you were right - 2x17L and 2x17t with both the L's on one side and both T's on the other. So.... I at least evened them out (assumed that L stands for leading and T stands for Trailing) and at least both sides are engaging at this point, but braking is not good which I am assuming is due to the Manual v. Auto adjusting. So I will await the new shoes and hopefully that clears everything up.

thanks again for the info, I feel like an idiot for not seeing that in the first place...

mike

You probably know this already, the "Leading" goes on the back and the "Trailing" goes on the front since the shoes expand from the bottom.

[Fairtax4me]

Mixture of not having the correct shoes and those being aftermarket, they might stop but they’ll be borderline at best. I don’t think that all aftermarket shoes are totally horrible, but I’ve tried a few, and none of them stop as well or last as long as the OEM shoes.
Is there a dealer anywhere near you? They’ll usually have the right ones in stock. Might cost a bit more than getting them online, but you also get them the same day and don’t have to pay shipping.

[Golf cart guy]

Im surprised at how often this happens with these older cars.

[Kazanski]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

Mixture of not having the correct shoes and those being aftermarket, they might stop but they’ll be borderline at best. I don’t think that all aftermarket shoes are totally horrible, but I’ve tried a few, and none of them stop as well or last as long as the OEM shoes.
Is there a dealer anywhere near you? They’ll usually have the right ones in stock. Might cost a bit more than getting them online, but you also get them the same day and don’t have to pay shipping.

I totally blanked on the local place, unfortunately they are closed today but may hit them up on monday to be sure i get the right stuff. The T and L are not working out very well (even when installed matched on each side), the cart is not safe to drive. Concerned that even with matched pairs on each side i need to crank the adjustment bolt on the passenger side all the way and it still isnt engaging with the drum, but will wait until i have the correct items on before i report back.

Thanks again and have a safe 4th of July.