Club car ds 1985

[Jake_Daddy]

Have you put your meter on each of the large posts of the coils? Make sure with no power on anything that there is no continuity between the large sets of posts on each solenoid, if you have continuity you probably have a welded together contact.

[Madamx]

I tested the 1st and fourth terminals. When you say each like where the arrows are on each one? That’s with no power and does it matter which is neg or pos? Thank you!!!

[Jake_Daddy]

Yea test those two on each one and it should say OL or similar when you are looking at ohms and there shouldn't be a reading with everything off.

I would test it with everything off first to verify none are welded then I would test it with it in Forward with key on and no throttle. You still shouldnt get a reading but it would let you know if one or more are getting activated when they shouldnt be.

[Madamx]

I’ll do that! Thank you so much! I’ll update with after.

[Madamx]

Ok! Sorry for the delay! So I tested it with the meter, I wasn’t sure neg or pos so I did them both. All of the connections said ol and beeped with the key on and in forward. The master was the only one that the number fluctuated from 2-9 like pic. With the key off none beeped they all just said OL.

[Madamx]

Just replaced the coils and the rusty nuts still no change :(. Only the first and last switch work (full speed)

[Sergio]

Someone is dealing with a cart like yours on a different thread and I think what I suggested there makes it easier for someone inexperienced to troubleshoot.

First, You can not test for resistance or continuity on an energized circuit and that is why your tests are not working.



Disconnect the copper bar that connects all of the big posts on one side of each solenoid.

With that copper bar removed, the cart cannot run and all solenoids are isolated from each other for proper testing.

1) With the Key Switch OFF, set your meter for continuity and test between the two big posts in each Solenoid.

If You get continuity, replace the Solenoid as it is stuck closed.

2) With the Key Switch ON, make sure the other Solenoids show continuity between the big posts as You press the pedal and they engage (click).

Replace any Solenoid that does not show continuity when it clicks (contacts are burnt).

3) If any Solenoid does not click, set Your meter for DC Voltage (100v scale) and measure the voltage between the two small posts on the Solenoid.

If You get pack voltage when the pedal is pressed, replace the Solenoid as the coil has failed.

If You do not get pack voltage as You press the pedal, the issue is in the wiring between the Solenoid and Speed box or inside the speed switch box (bad switch or mis-wire).

[Madamx]

Thank you! I’ll try that! Thanks for the making it easy to understand ;)

[Madamx]

Okay I got the buss bar off, With key off (batteries still connected) I got no continuity. With the key switch on, cart in forward pressing each switch I got continuity on all solenoids. I was using the actual switches to test not the pedal and I noticed the second micro was not clicking. Replaced that hoping it was the problem but still same thing. Master activates full speed. I didn’t do test 3 cause all clicked. This means wiring issue? Thank you!!

[Sergio]

Are You absolutely sure that copper bar is not touching any of the solenoids small posts or wire ring connectors underneath?

It is not possible for the cart to run with just the master solenoid ON and since you verified that only one solenoid at the time is clicking, perhaps the bar is touching the last solenoid black wire (or blue, white) causing that solenoid to also energize when the master is ON.