1990 36V to 48V Conversation

[Jakeh]

Hello BGW Forum,

I have a 1990 Club Car DS 36V Resistor Cart. I have completely gutted all the components.

-Removed Motor
-Removed Resistor Coils
-Removed V-Glide
-Remove Solenoid
-Removed F&R Switch
-Removed Batteries
-Removed 36V Charging Receptacle
-Removed Key Switch
-Removed F&R Limit Switch

Installed all new components
-DD Motorsystem 10.2 HP DC Series Motor
-600 AMP Navitas Series Controller
-Navitas Harness (10-000666)
-Navitas Adapter for 2 wire throttles (40-00066
-350 AMP Heavy Duty Solenoid
-HD F&R Switch (48V) w/ three Limit switches
-on the fly programmer
-3x Allied Lithium 48V 30AH Batteries + Charger
-New 48V Charging Receptacle
-New Key Switch (w/ two leads 1 + 2)
-Throttle Type PB-6 Type 0-5K with Micro 3 Wires EV PB-8 for Curtis PB 8 type Golf Cart Potentiometer (Most videos i watch this has 5x wires but mine only had 4x) 2 for the Potentiometer and 2 for the foot switch)

I connected to the controller and downloaded the correct programming for a Series motor. The Navitas app shows that the pedal is working and it can see it when its depressed 0%-100%.. it is set to 0k-5k.

When i press the throttle the cart tries to move but than stops. the Navitas controller goes in to a state where it has a solid green light than flashes amber. I can still access it via the app on my phone but there are no errors showing.
The Navitas Controller (in the app on my phone) shows the key switch is always on even if i turn it on/off physically.. It also shows that im in Forward and its waiting for foot pedal .. rotating the F/R switch from F to N to R does nothing on the Controller App.. it always says its in F.

I believe i don't have this wired correctly and so documented how i wired it in Lucid Chart.. Hoping someone more experienced than me can identify the mis-wiring or misconfiguration or maybe i need a different part?

I am attaching two pictures.. First one is how it was wired and what equipment was in it and how it is wired today and the new components. All the pictures are of the actual products that i purchased except for LImit SW3 on the F/R switch as mine actually has three wires coming out of it instead of the posts as seen in my drawing.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

In hindsight .. i should of gone with a conversion kit from one of the members here.. But now its too late.

[jasonojordan]

If your F R N switch is not changing states and always says forward I would look and make sure you have that wired correctly. I believe the hot should go to the middle position of the switch then when its switched from F and R should show that changing state. Looks to me like perhaps you have the constant hot running to the F side of the switch and that could be why it never changes from F to R or N.

EDIT: Read a bit to fast and saw that its not changing state on the on/off for the key switch either Sounds like you have a wire in the wrong spot.

[Fairtax4me]

Dunno if it's just a mistake on your diagram, but why is the pack negative going to the solenoid? Pack negative only goes to B- on the controller.
One side of the solenoid gets B+ from the pack, the other side goes to B+ on the controller.

You also need to verify your negative for the solenoid coil (small pins) goes to the correct place and that you have pack voltage reaching the solenoid + side small pin with Key On and pedal pressed.

And per the note on your diagram, there is No pre-charge resistor built into the solenoid. If Navitas requires one it will say in their documentation. I'm not sure off the top of my head if they require one so double check the install instructions for that info.

[Jakeh]

HI Fairtax4me,

You are correct.. that is an error on my drawing.. I have fixed it and re-uploaded.

Regarding the negative solenoid coil... the drawing from navitas (attached) shows it goes to the OBC.. I do not have an OBC... What should i wire there?? Nothing is currently wired there.

I will do some voltage testing this evening.

[Jakeh]

I also just spoke with Navitas and they said since i don't have an OBC.. i should wire the negative terminal on the solenoid to the B- on the controller.

If anyone see any other wiring mishaps, feel free to chime in! Going to wire that up later but i have a hunch that wont solve my issues :)

[Fairtax4me]

Well you have to have a negative for the solenoid to activate. If the small terminal is not grounded it won't engage. Connect that to the B- terminal or to an isolated ground terminal that is connected to the B-.
Do not connect any ground or negative wiring to the frame of an electric cart. Always go back to a common ground block or to B-.

[Jakeh]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

Well you have to have a negative for the solenoid to activate. If the small terminal is not grounded it won't engage. Connect that to the B- terminal or to an isolated ground terminal that is connected to the B-.
Do not connect any ground or negative wiring to the frame of an electric cart. Always go back to a common ground block or to B-.

Now that I have connected that small terminal to B- on the controller. I am able to go forward (cheer). But I can't go reverse... baby steps i guess.

Any suggestions?

[Jakeh]

Well last update for the evening!

I am now able to go forward and reverse!!!! Yeh!!!

The wires on the reverse buzzer were swapped and although my drawing was correct, I did not connect them correctly.

Now the only issue i see is Navitas thinks my Key is always in the on position. But this may just be because i have no OBC .. i. dont know..

However the cart will not drive (fwd/revs) when it is in the off position so that safety feature is there.

I will update my drawing with the last connection i did.

It should help anyone who has a 36V Club Car DS Resistor Cart that wan't to go 48V with a new controller, motor, and battery/charging system.

Thanks all

[Fairtax4me]

Originally Posted by Jakeh

Now the only issue i see is Navitas thinks my Key is always in the on position. But this may just be because i have no OBC .. i. dont know..

By your diagram, you don't have a wire from the key switch to the controller. So it doesn't know which position the key switch is. Which pin on the controller is for Key switch input? Because you have constant pack voltage applied on that pin.
Does it matter? Probably not, since the solenoid gets no power when the key is off.