2011 Carryall Help Needed

[Fairtax4me]

I have been able to see all of your previous posts just fine, so I'm not sure if/why they would be missing.

[simicrintz]

X2 what Fairtax said.

[PMD3454]

Don't have a Curtis scanner. Is that something I should have if I'm going to be tinkering with the carts? In fact I have a 2001 DS that just died and has similar symptoms to this Carryall.

> I've searched for the relay shown on the diagram and can't find it. Will try again later by tracing some wires.

> The white wire, pin 13 shows 0V on every combination of tests I've done.

> I am getting power on pins without the jumper, but there are a couple of changes when I do the jump to the solenoid. Details are below.

> Pin readings with run/key on, forward, pedal depressed, no jumper:
1 - 49.9
2 - 46.8
3 - 49.9
4 - 49.9
8 - 49.9
11 - 49.9
16 - 49.9
19 - 48.2
all other pins 0V

when I switch to reverse, everything above is the same except pin 11 goes to 0V and pin 10 goes to 49.9. But, buzzer doesn't sound. Buzzer was tested direct to 48V and does work.

> run/key/F/pedal/ jumper in place
1 - 49.5
2 - 46.8
3 - 49.9
4 - 49.9
8 - 49.5
11 - 49.9
17 - 46.3 ( this had 0V in test above without jumper)
19 - 48.2

> Circuit breaker - located in same small panel with Tow/Run switch. Removed breaker, verified continuity. Green supply has 49.9V. When reconnected tan wire shows 49.9 also. Seems to check out.

> Red wire on charging socket confirmed to pack pos. Removed wire and verified continuity. Reconnected. 49.8V from socket red to pack neg. 39.1V from socket red to socket black. Verified continuity across socket fuse. No fuse in grey socket wire to OBC. Wiring diagram doesn't show a fuse.

> Charger - plugged in - nothing. Removed grey wire from OBC and jumpered to pack neg. Charger clicks on, stays on, but does not go into charge mode. Breaker on charger not tripped. Charger is a Powerdrive 3. Neighbor has a working Powerdrive3. Tried that and it also clicks on when the grey jumper is in place, but does not go into charge mode. Would it go into charge mode with the pack at 49.9V?

> Doubled checked all pins for 5V reading. None there. Diagram shows pin 15 yellow as "to MCOR slider". Pin 15 0V. Pins 13 and 14 show as MCOR B- and MCOR B+. Both show 0V.

Hopefully this is helpful. Let me know if there are any other tests needed. Will provide info asap. Thanks again.

[Fairtax4me]

Where did you put a jumper?
The solenoid should be getting 48v from the Key switch on the Light Blue wire. If 48v is present there it should be getting through the solenoid coil and should have 48v all the way to the controller pin 17, if key switch is good and solenoid coil is good.
When the controller commands the solenoid to activate it provides the ground for the solenoid, pin 17 will pull down to 0v and solenoid should engage.
If there is not 48v supplied to the solenoid then you need to find the break in the wiring between key switch and solenoid.
If there is 48v at the solenoid, the controller is giving command for the solenoid to engage when the pin 17 is at 0v.


Assuming that doesn't fix it, I'm thinking lightning got it.
OBC and controller are both dead as far as I can tell.
David at Revolution Golf Cars knows these carts inside and out. You might try getting in touch with him and ask if there's anywhere we're missing. He can get you OEM replacement parts as well.


A scanner isn't necessary, but it can be helpful if you know how to use it. It's also able to change the regen strength and speed settings on the IQ carts. If you think you're going to need to work on a lot of carts then it might be worth the $600 or so to buy one.

[PMD3454]

The jumper went from battery negative to the small spade on the solenoid with the yellow wire (wire removed).

I'll go back through things based on your input above and provide another round of feedback on that.

Since my last post I put all of the wiring back together and I now have the reverse buzzer and the solenoid engaging and disengaging as the pedal is depressed and released. But still no motor.

It occurred to me that the voltage test for 5V to MCOR had to be test for voltage from the controller out to the MCOR whereas many of the other tests were for voltage signals into the controlled. Up to now all readings were being taken with the connector unplugged and reading voltage in the connector. With everything back together I do have 4.83 V on the white wire. And with the pedal partially depressed in Forward, I get 0.3V on pin 14, and 3.0V on pin 15.

Should I be checking the motor? I read something about continuity from A to A, and S to S, but not from any a to any s, etc. What is S? The other terminals on this motor are labeled F.

[PMD3454]

I also found the relay. It's mounted below the OBC and has the four wire colors as shown on the diagram. I removed all of the wires, cleaned connections, and put back together.

[Fairtax4me]

Well it makes a difference when it's plugged in!

Yes, if you have voltage going to the MCOR then you should get around .5v on pin 15 just after pressing the pedal, and should go up to around 4.5v as the pedal pushes down further. (think that's right anyway)

Motor terminals on yours will be F labels because those are the field posts.
Generally Series motors are labeled with S1, S2, and Sepex motors are F1, F2. The posts have similar function, but the motors are entirely different in design, so that's one quick way to tell them apart.

Motor test, With all cables removed from the motor. Before touching any motor cables put the cart in Tow mode, and disconnect the pack main negative. Use two wrenches to hold the lower nut while loosening the upper nut to avoid twisting the studs.

Test continuity from A1 to A2, and from F1 to F2. You should have continuity.
Test continuity from either A post to either F post, you should have NO continuity. Repeat for the other pair.
Test continuity from All A and F posts to the motor case, you should have NO continuity.

Motor test by applying 12-18v power source. With rear wheels off the ground. Make 2 short jumper wires from approx. 10awg or larger wire. Jumper A1 to F1, A2 to F2.
Use cables or jumper box to apply 12-18v positive to A1, Negative to A2. The motor should spin. If it does not spin the motor may be damaged internally or have worn/broken brushes and will likely need to be disassembled/replaced.

[meimk]

Originally Posted by PMD3454

> there was also a cut off fused blue wire near the batt pos. I've traced that all out and determined that it's voltage in to a voltage reducer under the cart. on the input side that reducer has a yellow going to body ground, a white from the load side of the key switch, and that blue wire which I assume goes to batt 48V. There's a red and black on the output. Black goes to body ground, and as best I can tell the red feeds the headlights.

Since no one else has mentioned it, I'll jump in. On an electric cart there should be no such thing as a body ground. All 12 volt accessories that currently ground to the chassis should be separately wired to an isolated ground buss with the 12 volt ground output (black wire). The chassis, including the motor housing, should NOT be part of the + or - circuit for either the 48 volt or 12 volt systems.

[PMD3454]

Thanks for pointing this out. I'm inexperienced with this stuff so I appreciate the learning. I saw that the bus was riveted to the frame and just assumed chassis was ground. I checked continuity today and there isn't any. The bus is isolated from the frame as it should be.

[PMD3454]

Did more tests this morning and may have finally found something using your motor testing info. I did retest pin 15 and it starts out around 0.7V and does increase like you indicated as the pedal is pressed.

Motor testing - I do NOT have continuity from A1 to A2. All other motor checks are ok. Did two short jumpers on motor terminals and test with 12 and 18V. Motor does not turn. Does this mean I have to replace the motor? have it rebuilt? I can do brushes if that's the issue.

When I did the pin 15 test above I left the motor leads off assuming I'm going to have to pull the motor for further investigation. One thing I noticed is when the pedal is depressed the solenoid engages but after a few seconds, with the pedal still being depressed, the solenoid drops out. Is that simply because the controller isn't seeing the motor?