'08 TXT motor stuck

[mlifly]

New guy here...

I've searched the existing posts, even some threads over 6 years old, for advice about stuck motor removal.

I have the cables disconnected, speed sensor out, snap ring behind the speed sensor out, and the three motor bolts out. I can't even get the case off the armature, let alone the armature off the input shaft.

I keep reading about using penetrating fluid, but if I can't even budge the motor housing, how could I get penetrating fluid to the shaft?

I read the thread about dropping the rear end on the floor. As tempting as that has been made to sound, I'd prefer a less barbaric method first!

Any advice is greatly appreciated!
-Mark

[Sir Nuke]

Hi Mark, obviously you know that the cases of the differential are Aluminum, and they can corrode, and when they do, things tend to get TIGHT and bind. you have two different things going on and they are both working against you. The FIT between the case of the motor and differential.....and where the armature is splined to the input shaft could be "stuck" together.

You will need a second set of hands for this, but, I would start off by using either a Rawhide or Hard Rubber mallet. striking the side of the motor near where it fits into the differential, going from side to side, top to bottom, all the while having the other person putting steady pressure by pulling AWAY from the diff.

[mlifly]

Thank you Sir!

As far as the motor housing, I AM able to spin the housing around so I don't think it's stuck to the diff case. I'll try the rubber mallet persuasion.
I'm trying to save the motor and not exactly sure how much beating the motor can take.

Thanks for the advice!

[JohnnieB]

There is a magnet disc on the back end of the motor shaft that probable should be taken off also. To keep it from getting damaged.

I've never heard of anyone doing this, but I think it ought to work.


Get some Kano Kroil and apply it liberally where the motor case is stuck to the differential housing.

Get some longer motor mounting bolts (1/4 - 20). 2-3 inches maybe. You want them long enough to bottom out in the threads with the hex head sticking out of the differential housing a half inch or more. (At least the front to back thickness of the shaft bearing, My guess is that it is no more than 1/2" thick.)

Heat the cast Aluminum end cap on the motor. Use a heat gun or hair dryer, a torch will probably be too aggressive.

Tap the hex heads of the extended mounting bolts. First to break the Aluminum to Steel bond between motor case and differential housing and then the extract the pressed in motor shaft bearing out of the end cap.

Once the motor housing is removed, drench the coupler/splines with Kriol and let it soak for a few hours. (The splines are inserted about an inch into the coupler, so it'll take some time for the Kroil to do its magic.

Wrap the armature to protect it and wiggle it from the bearing end of the shaft to loosen the rusted together coupler/splines.

[mlifly]

Thanks Johnnie,

I think I understand everything you're saying. The part that surprised me was that of heating the end cap of the motor.

I didn't realize that bearing is pressed in. I figured the motor housing would slip off the end of the armature once I removed the speed sensor, the c clip behind it, and the three motor mounting bolts (the 1/4x20's). I did already remove the magnet also.

Not sure if I should have done this or not, but I also removed the two bolts holding the end cap to the rest of the motor housing. I can get the end cap to spin seperate from the steel housing, just as I can get the steel housing to spin on the stuck armature, just can't get the thing to back out. I'll try some conservative heat and see what happens.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by mlifly

Thanks Johnnie,

I think I understand everything you're saying. The part that surprised me was that of heating the end cap of the motor.

I didn't realize that bearing is pressed in. I figured the motor housing would slip off the end of the armature once I removed the speed sensor, the c clip behind it, and the three motor mounting bolts (the 1/4x20's). I did already remove the magnet also.

Not sure if I should have done this or not, but I also removed the two bolts holding the end cap to the rest of the motor housing. I can get the end cap to spin seperate from the steel housing, just as I can get the steel housing to spin on the stuck armature, just can't get the thing to back out. I'll try some conservative heat and see what happens.

You might want to bolt the end cap back onto the motor housing so it doesn't fall when the bearing comes free. Other than that, no harm done.

There have been some guys that have replaced a motor bearing without using a bearing press by using selective heating and cooling.
Cool the shaft and warm the bearing to get it off/on the shaft and then cool the bearing and shaft and warm the end cap to set it in the end cap.

There are four bolt holes in the motor case and only three through the differential flange, so you can R&R the bolts and rotate the motor 90° if it is isn't coming off evenly.

When you install a different motor, be sure to transfer the rubber spline bumper. Also use plenty of anti-cease compound on the splines.

[yurtle]

The Service Manual says to use heat to release the end bearing. If you get the housing off, the you'll still have to remove the rotor. If I read you post correctly, the housing is rotating, so that's not the problem. The rotor is stuck.

[93yellowclubcar]

This might seem extreme, but here's a way to get the armature off the shaft w/o ruining something.

First, remove the rear end from the cart.
Second, take off the wheels and tires and bolt the passenger side brake drum on backwards to protect the studs.
Third, stand the rear end up on the passenger side, the armature should be hanging down - apply either heat or mass quantities of PB Blaster (or both if youre careful) to the shaft where the armature meets it.
Fourth, pick it up about a foot and let it slam down - after a few blows the armature should fall off. (Keep trying if not, it took me a little bit) Have something soft or someone ready to catch it.

This is info from TahoeDawgZ71, and this method has worked for me more than once.

This is the go-to method for Club Cars, where this is a common occurrence. Might have to modify the instructions as I can't remember which side the EZGO motors are on, but the basic idea is the same. This works.

[mlifly]

Originally Posted by yurtle

The Service Manual says to use heat to release the end bearing. If you get the housing off, the you'll still have to remove the rotor. If I read you post correctly, the housing is rotating, so that's not the problem. The rotor is stuck.

Thanks Yurtle,

I've been looking for a service manual, but the only one I can find is a simple owners/service manual. Doesn't get into much detail other than general service and maintenance.

The thing I'm confused about is that I've read some posts where guys were able to slide the can right off the arm. Unless they were just omitting the part about heating the end cap first...

Thanks everyone for the input! Keep it coming if you think of other ideas. I'm really beginning to entertain the "drop it" method!

[yurtle]

Owner's, Parts, and Service Manuals:
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...g-manuals.html

Wiring Diagrams
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...-diagrams.html

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...g-manuals.html

Dana Axle:
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/attac...5-28148g01.pdf

Golf Cart Serial Number Lookup:
http://www.shopezgo.com/customer-ser...ialNumber.html

Controller/Motor Type:
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/attac...go-guide-2.jpg

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...en-system.html


A little extreme, but you could remove the rear end and with bolts installed but loose, drop it on the end to allow the motor to fall. My '98 took a little coaxing with a rubber mallet, but the bearing didn't let go. The whole motor came off.