1999 club car DS, lack of power

[Walter Hudiburg]

I'm working on a 1999 Model DS Club Car that is used as a rental at a public course. It has one year old batteries that test good under load and the specific gravity is 1.3 + in all cells. The motor was removed last fall due a loose post and was repaired and supposedly, new brushes put in. It ran good all winter but a few weeks ago, it seemed to have trouble going over 18 holes on a full charge. I found a brake dragging and fixed that, and I aligned the front wheels after finding a toe in. The cart rolls as smooth as silk but still has trouble going over 18 holes. This morning I took it out for a few holes and checked for hot elements. I found the heavy resistor on the passenger side was quite warm, not too hot to touch, but quite warm, and the top contact on the accelerator box was also warm. This resistor goes to the A2 connection on the motor. I tried another cart, same model, and found no warming of the resistor on that cart.

Where do I go now. Do you think the problem is in the motor or the accelerator box or what. Any clues would be greatly appreciated.

Of note, this is the same cart that I got help on from this site, last fall while removing to motor. Boy, was that a job.

[OLD MEC]

I assume from what you said that this is a multy resistor cart? Have you checked the A2cable going from the motor to the resistor for good tight corosion free condition? Its normal for the heavy wire resistors to get hot depending on usage. HEAT OTHER THAN RESISTORS IS BAD and means loose connections or HIGH RESISTANCE INSIDE CABLE AND OR CONNECTION?
Its also possible that motor could have a brush not making good contact? Some times the springs that push brushes downward get weak or hot and loose tension causing brush bounce. Look for signs of arcking on armature, some is normal but look for discolored areas and deep pits in armature face.

[GLEEMO]

what are you calling full charge .
Charge the pack wait 30 min. then post pack voltage here

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...-readings.html

[OLD MEC]

Hydrometer reading show ( IF corrected for temperature ) FULLY CHARGED BATTERYS.
Anything above 1.277 is fully charged AND I feel your problem in this case is not batterys related. BUT WHAT BRAND AND 20 AMP HOUR RATED BATTERYS ARE YOU USING? THis could account for the short travel time?
Im sorry but batterys are not all the same even when the same amp hour rated.
Just pick up two different brands of same amp hour rated batterys and see the difference in weight. Weight means more LEAD and MORE LEAD means longer run time and life.

[Walter Hudiburg]

Thanks for the info. I too do not feel it is a battery problem altho despite my warnings and advice, the course manager insists on getting "cheaper" batteries and as such, I have to live with it. I do feel the brush suggestion is a likely possibility but until I have to, I ain't pullin that motor again. My next step is to remove all terminals from motor, resistors, and control unit and clean them up, then say a little prayer that that helps. Will let you know in a few days. It is in fact, a part time volunteer job and often, just keeping up with the breakdowns takes all my time. Thanks again.

[OLD MEC]

Whenever you disconnect cables ( ALWAYS USE 2 WRENCHES ) to keep from turning bolts through motor etc. Many times people will use only one wrench and turn posts into motor, solenoid, f&r switch etc breaking lead wires inside off. Then you would be forced to remove parts or in motor case just to get new leads installed?

[Walter Hudiburg]

Amen brother. I hate it when I have to make a repair and find that someone in the past has twisted out a post and has tried to repair it with liquid solder or some other stuff. I have found in a lot of cases that a nut just has to be cut off and find that a high speed dremel tool with a heavy blade works well on this. It takes a little time and you have to watch out for the threads but a cut on each side of the nut works well. Thanx again.