Separate 24 volt circuits to LED Headlights

[swm63]

TX_RDXGuy,

Sergio never said "do it because I say so", or "BTW, don't bother doing a simple test to validate it". He said your test wouldn't prove anything. He's also one of the most knowledgeable electrical guys on here who offers his expertise free of charge. A simple search would prove how many guys he's helped here, and that would be many more than the none you've helped.

Show the man a little respect...

[Kashmir]

^^

[dundeebarnbuggy]

[Sergio]

I appreciate the comments guys.

TX_RDXGuy, It was not my intention to come across as you perceived, but there is no need to test any theory since Club Car documented how the OBC "energy count" charging method works in every service manual.

The problem with discharging some batteries more than others and the long term effect this out of balance causes on the pack life is also well understood.

This is not an issue if you have a smart charger, but otherwise the proper method is to use the negative accessory wire that Club Car provides off the Controller B- terminal.

[dundeebarnbuggy]

I don't get why anyone would purposely stick any extra wires on battery posts, [with the exception of individual batt meters] when you have clean, generally non corroding terminals [charger plug ,controller neg, solenoid, ect] right nearby. Cleaner install and no little wires to go bad or remove when servicing batteries.

[Hunter450]

Well so much for my keep it simple theory. Sergio, thank you for your detailed wiring scheme for my particular set up but after taking a few days to think about it I'm going to agree with Dundee that keeping the battery compartment clean of misc wire connections is the best approach so I think I will go with a small the 48v-12v reducer as the only accessories I intend to have are 2 LED headlights and a pack digital voltage meter. So, with that said my thinking is to run a dedicated single ground wire from the B- on my controller to a ground buss bar somewhere on the front of the cart so the reducer, headlights and voltage meter grounds have a close (-) termination point. Then, run a wire from the pack + up to the front of the cart where it will go through a master accessory switch that will kill the 48 volt power to the reducer and volt meter. I intend to mount the reducer under the front cowl of my DS so the 12 volt wiring is all up front and short.

Does this make sense?

[Sergio]

I would suggest you look for a converter with a "trigger" wire.

You can always add a "long term storage" switch to the converter 48v side, but turning the 48v side ON/OFF every time you use it will eventually damage the converter.

That initial spark You get when attaching the converter for the first time would happen every time you turn the converter power on/off.