2012 Electric Precedent does not run

[Carts4you]

We have a 2012 Precedent that does not run. Batteries are at 50v. When scanning the controller is not reading when the car is put in forward or reverse. We verified rocker switch and is working properly with continuity testing. Also tested the wires from rocker switch to controller and we get continuity. Would this be a controller fault?

[twilliams81]

So you hooked up a Curtis handheld up directly to the controller couldn’t get it to power up? If that’s the case then you need to start at your key switch and work your way back. More than likely it could be the activation side of your mcor isn’t operating right or it could be the OBC has it locked out. Try disconnecting the main pos and neg cables for 5-10 min and seeing if that makes a difference; if it doesn’t then my money would be on the OBC being locked out. Hope this helps


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[Carts4you]

Originally Posted by twilliams81

So you hooked up a Curtis handheld up directly to the controller couldn’t get it to power up? If that’s the case then you need to start at your key switch and work your way back. More than likely it could be the activation side of your mcor isn’t operating right or it could be the OBC has it locked out. Try disconnecting the main pos and neg cables for 5-10 min and seeing if that makes a difference; if it doesn’t then my money would be on the OBC being locked out. Hope this helps


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We did get the handheld to activate and that is how we found that under monitor section the forward and reverse signal was not being detected by the controller. Key switch seems to be fine. The car has a keypad for activation and once the code is entered, the relay activates the car. However, the f or r signals are not being detected on the scanner. Does this make sense?

Also the car had been sitting out for over a year without use and batteries were out. We just installed a new set of batteries to test vehicle.

[Sergio]

Did You also verify the orange wire on the center position of the FNR had 48v?

[Carts4you]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Did You also verify the orange wire on the center position of the FNR had 48v?

Yes. That one showed 47 volts vs 50 volts at BPV

[Sergio]

That voltage reading could have some significance to the issue.

The power to the FNR comes from the Tow/Run switch through a fuse and a couple of sonic-welds, but it should not cause that kind of voltage drop.

First verify that the 16ga pink wire on the Solenoid big post (Tow/Run power) is connected to the battery side of the Solenoid and not the Controller B+ side.

if the pink wire is connected to the correct Solenoid post, does the voltage on the FNR drops when you turn the Key Switch ON and try to use the cart?

[TahoeDawgZ71]

It's either a bad controller, two bad wires between the f&r switch and the controller, or a bad F&R switch entirely. I doubt it's a bad F&R switch, because it would have to fail in both forward AND reverse in order to give you these symptoms. This is considering you're getting power to the orange wire on the center pin, which you said was good. I would start by checking for power at the blue wire and the brown wire at the controller 16 pin connector. The blue wire is for reverse and the brown wire is for forward. If you're getting full pack voltage to both of these wires when the F&R switch is in the correct position then your controller is your issue.

[Htownblue]

Take apart the switch. It’s easy and you can immediately recognize corrosion etc. if you see it.

[Htownblue]

Stupid duplicate post....operator error...I’m a moron...yadayadayada.

[alchemy]

just fixed my FNR switch yesterday (2013 carryall 6). It was touchy getting R to connect or switch on then it just quit connecting all together. I removed it and it came apart. I took it in the house and looked closely and could not for the life of me figure how it could work and that something must have fell out when it came apart. I went back out and looked around and sure enough I found a 1" metal "see-saw" and a white plastic piece with what is like a sprung brush. After figuring how they went and putting it back together it works perfectly, connects solid every time, is "sturdier," and the click is louder. The whole problem I'm sure is that the plastic tab clips on the side of the case are pretty soft and open easy and the case just comes apart slightly to where you don't really notice but when it's right I think you hear a snap where the case itself snaps together. Being loose like that the "see saw" may have turned out of place and it would need taken apart anyway.
I only needed to read continuity on mine but I could read Volts on mine that works if that would be helpful.

edit: there was another guy here in some thread with the same problem if I could find it again.