Wiring brake lights

[Bud333]

So Thanks to so of your help I have figured out how to add a brake switch but now I'm trying to start the wiring and I'm staring from scratch any tips or tricks

[popatop]

Hi Bud, this might help

[Mike Mac]

Bud, I am trying to organize pictures and a guide to how I did mine, but the pictures are crap!

Anyway, to start with, I went to the key switch and found a terminal that was hot when the switch was switched on. I taped into that terminal with a wire, and connected it to one side of a "1950 Chevy brake light switch". About $20. at Auto Zone.

I used the (key on) connection because I didn't want the brake lights to be on when I used the parking brake. So I have to turn the key switch off, when I leave the car, with the parking brake applied.

Then I connected 2 wires to the other side of the brake light switch, and ran those wires, one to each tail light,(to the bright filament of each light bulb).(Post connecters fit the brake light switch perfectly.)

I mounted the Chevy brake switch to a bracket with slotted holes in it, so it could be adjusted forward and backward if need be, when I put new brake shoes on it.

Worked well, hope you can make sense of my poor photography. Mike

[spriddle]

Originally Posted by Mike Mac

Bud, I am trying to organize pictures and a guide to how I did mine, but the pictures are crap!

Anyway, to start with, I went to the key switch and found a terminal that was hot when the switch was switched on. I taped into that terminal with a wire, and connected it to one side of a 1950 Chevy brake light switch. About $20. at Auto Zone.

I used the (key on) connection because I didn't want the brake lights to be on when I used the parking brake. So I have to turn the key switch off when I leave the car with the parking brake applied.

Then I connected 2 wires to the other side of the brake light switch, and ran those wires, one to each tail light,(to the bright filament of each light bulb).

I mounted the Chevy brake switch to a bracket with slotted holes in it, so it could be adjusted forward and backward if need be, when I put new brake shoes on it.

Worked well, hope you can make sense of my poor photography. Mike

I wondered if you were. Hadn't heard anything. Glad your getting them together. You have a great knowledge of these Yamaha's Mike. Anything else you can come up with, let me know and I'll start you a little self help guide sticky here. I know the guys would appreciate it. Me too buddy. And, thanks for all your help in this section.

[sho305]

Relays are only a couple bucks, another way would be to put a relay off the pedal switch or such that it is on with the engine. The issue would be if you let off and coasted down a hill with no throttle in a normal cart with pedal start, you would have no brake light. So, put a second relay off the first to run the brake lights from the battery. On the second relay put a large capacitor on the trigger. When the first relay shuts off the second one will stay on until the cap is empty, should not take that huge a cap to get a couple minutes out of it. Or you could use one relay and a diode before the cap, or the cap would just power the ignition to empty itself without a diode or relay/etc before it. If you set the parking brake the lights would stay on for a few minutes. Or you could try to place a mini switch on the parking brake lock to disable lights when parking.

I thought about this because I bought this cool looking LED light for a trailer, when I got it I found it had both normal and bright for brakes. I was just going to have it on with the lights but brake lights would be kinda cool.

[technoid]

Originally Posted by popatop

Hi Bud, this might help

Your diagram is not complete. It needs to show the internal switch contacts and pin outs inside the turn signal box.

[Fireplug1960]

Mike,

Thank you so much for the info. I've been looking for a way to attach a better switch than the one that came in a light kit we bought. We're working on a 1999 Yamaha G16-AT. The rotary switch idea is supurb.

The switch that came in the kit is a "round", momentary contact switch about the diameter of your little finger and about as long. The throw on the plunger is quite short. I have serious questions if its water proof at all. The bracket that came in the kit was a 6" X 10" plastic plate with a 90 degree bend about 2" in, on the long side. We spent a lot of time fabricating that plate to make it work. We used the same spot you did, at the junction of all the brake cables, just under the floor board.

I printed copies of your pictures and hope to go to Auto Zone today.

Thanks again.

Dale

[Mike Mac]

Dale, you may have to order the switch, I did. Or NAPA may have it in stock, just more money. It appears to be water proof by the way!

Just make your bracket adjustable, is probably the most critical thing. Haven't touched mine in about 1500 MI. so i would say it works!

Good luck Mike

[Fireplug1960]

I picked up a switch, had to order it though. I contacted WELLS, the manufacturer, and asked if they make a pigtail for this part. Unfortunately, no. I'm going to use "Bullet" connectors. I went to a local electrical shop that rebuilds starters and he came out with a couple that fit tight enough that he had to pry off the one we tested. Just a simple crimp to attach the wire and snap it into place. Hop it will work. Looks like it will, but we all know that what looks goood on paper may not be feasable at all.

I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks again for the idea. Who knew a 50's Chevy brake light switch would be used on golf carts? LOL

[Mike Mac]

Dale, use shrink tubing over the crimp area, then it will be more water/dust proof.

But the bullet connecters worked very good for me (reusable).

Ya right, A 1950 Chevy brake switch, come on!!

PS, Dale and Bud we want pictures!!