Question about Run/Tow switch.

[dkeener]

I see this is an old thread but I also have a run/tow switch question. Im helping my Father In Law with his Club Car 48v and the run/tow switch has no effect on the cart. It will run just fine regardless of the switch position. Its nearly impossible to push in tow as it engages its dynamic braking and starts beeping (it also has a problem where it sometimes just clicks in run and wont move which leads to why I switched to tow and was trying to push it). I plan to disconnect and check the switch to see if its bad. Any other thoughts?? It seems like it isnt supposed to work this way. Thanks

EDIT: Found another thread with same issue with a recommendation of just what I was going to try... Ill disconnect the switch and see what happens... It appears the wires are in a connector so it should be fairly easy.

[NoleFan4Ever]

It does sound like your toggle switch is failing internally. Run should be Normal and Tow should Disable the roll away break by disabling the controller. (Which is why you ~should be able to roll it without resistance when in Tow)

[dkeener]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

It does sound like your toggle switch is failing internally. Run should be Normal and Tow should Disable the roll away break by disabling the controller. (Which is why you ~should be able to roll it without resistance when in Tow)

Thats what I figured. Will disconnect the switch and see what changes and test the switch with ohmmeter. Not sure if this is also related with the intermittent 'just clicks and wont run' issue where it will refuse to go. It wouldnt let me push it when it does this though so it may be something else.

[NoleFan4Ever]

The Precedents have a Blue wire coming and a fuse on the out going side. The DS's have a Pink coming in and no fuse on the the out going side.

[dkeener]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

The Precedents have a Blue wire coming and a fuse on the out going side. The DS's have a Pink coming in and no fuse on the the out going side.

The ID plate on this one says AQ0339-328685. I took a picture of it earlier. Ill have to go over to physically check what the config is.

EDIT Found decoder. Looks like a Club Car DS 2003

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by dkeener

The ID plate on this one says AQ0339-328685. I took a picture of it earlier. Ill have to go over to physically check what the config is.

EDIT Found decoder. Looks like a Club Car DS 2003

That is correct. AQ is a DS and PQ is a Precedent. That is an IQ (Sepex) cart and thus the Run/Tow switch.

[dkeener]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

That is correct. AQ is a DS and PQ is a Precedent. That is an IQ (Sepex) cart and thus the Run/Tow switch.

Confirmed bad Run/Tow switch. Switch measures 0 ohms in both positions. With the switch unplugged (which forces tow mode), it no longer runs and it pushes just fine.

Now what to do... the switch is dipped and sealed. I could just get a new switch (I would imagine its simply a SPST with about a 10 amp rating) and goop it with 'Liquid Electrical tape to seal it up or buy the Madjax replacement for $50 bucks. Decisions decisions...

Thanks for your help!

[Fairtax4me]

Jumper the wires together and drive the cart and see if your problems still happen.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by dkeener

Confirmed bad Run/Tow switch. Switch measures 0 ohms in both positions. With the switch unplugged (which forces tow mode), it no longer runs and it pushes just fine.

Now what to do... the switch is dipped and sealed. I could just get a new switch (I would imagine its simply a SPST with about a 10 amp rating) and goop it with 'Liquid Electrical tape to seal it up or buy the Madjax replacement for $50 bucks. Decisions decisions...

Thanks for your help!

Then there lies your problem. The switch is not opening. It has to be made up to close the circuit and of course opens when toggled. You can purchase a toggle switch and just cut the wires and remount it yourself or call David Hicks and Revolution Golf Cars 706-431-3917 to order an OEM replacement.

[dkeener]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

Then there lies your problem. The switch is not opening. It has to be made up to close the circuit and of course opens when toggled. You can purchase a toggle switch and just cut the wires and remount it yourself or call David Hicks and Revolution Golf Cars 706-431-3917 to order an OEM replacement.

All fixed.... 5 buck switch from Home Depot and Im back in business.

I dont believe the switch was the cause of the 'other' problem where the cart would refuse to 'go' when the pedal is pressed. Fingers crossed that I dont see that behavior anymore. If I do, it could be another switch issue. Need to find a schematic for the cart... Google time.

Thanks for the help!!! Appreciate it!