1983 ezgo won’t start

[Tankercart]

Well I’m into a rebuild project.. I had it running awesome until is slowed down and won’t start and now only floods the carb.. the carb and fuel pump are new... soooo I ordered crank seals and crank bearings.... oh and new cylinder, piston and rings.. oh aaaand a new clutch cause why not??? Anyway my question is... how do I replace the crank bearings? Do I have to split the case? What puller do I use?

[cart around]

Use the 85 manual in post #22. https://buggiesgonewild.com/showthre...=105501&page=3

You will need to separate the case to change bearings. There are three of them. Pay attention when removing them. There may, or may not be thin shims between them. If the bearings stay on the crankshaft after removing the case halves, you will need a puller like this.
https://www.harborfreight.com/bearin...saAgLMEALw_wcB

[Brandon h]

Yes, you will need to split the case. Not very hard to do at all. But when putting it back together there is no gasket in it, so use Indian head gasket maker. They us the same stuff on old VW engines.

[Tankercart]

Thank you! I got it all apart, no shims. The crank slid off the bearings pretty effortlessly. I heated the case up with a heat gun and tapped the bearings out. It was easier than I thought it was going to be. The two rod bearings look good, no up and down movement at all. The crank has a slight groove worn where the fan crank seal seats, but i can't buy a new one so it is what it is.

What's the best way to install these bearings without an arbor press?

Are there any other lubes, sealant, gasket maker you guys recommend? Should i put something on the outside of the new crank seals?

[cart around]

Loctite the seals in, and then stake them in three places. Use 2 stoke oil on the actual seal part. Don't forget that the rings go bevel side up. The ends wrap around around alignment pins in the ring grooves. The side port of the piston faces the intake.

If you don't have a press, you can freeze the bearings, and warm up the case halves. They should just drop in then. Once you get the cases close enough together, pull them in with the bolts.

[Dabble Inn]

I always use an 'anaerobic' sealer on the case halves, usually comes with a primer. I've heard Yamabond works well also but never have used it

[Tankercart]

Well I'm done, for the most part. The engine was extremely dirty so the majority of the time was spend scrubbing with engine degreaser and brake clean. But all in all a pretty easy and satisfying job. Heating up the case and freezing the bearings caused me no trouble. I did end up using Permatex anaerobic sealer on the halves, and Permatex blue on the crank seals. Also, the new cylinder and piston magically gave me no trouble at all.

My question is how do I mix oil for break in? I currently have in the tank about 1.75 gallons mixed at 128:1.

[cart around]

Break in is 40:1 for the first tankful.

[Dabble Inn]

Originally Posted by Tankercart

Well I'm done, for the most part. The engine was extremely dirty so the majority of the time was spend scrubbing with engine degreaser and brake clean. But all in all a pretty easy and satisfying job. Heating up the case and freezing the bearings caused me no trouble. I did end up using Permatex anaerobic sealer on the halves, and Permatex blue on the crank seals. Also, the new cylinder and piston magically gave me no trouble at all.

My question is how do I mix oil for break in? I currently have in the tank about 1.75 gallons mixed at 128:1.

Very good ...... On the mixture, 'about 1.75 gallon in the tank' is unacceptable for me if you plan on adding to it for the break-in mix. I suggest draining the tank and start fresh, I'm super picky but you want to get it right. Right??

I always mix mine in a 5 gallon can first then pour it in, you'll want 40:1 for the first tank then go back to 128:1 after that

[Tankercart]

Drained the tank filled it up 40:1. Went to run it and it ran for about 5 minutes before the carb started flooding again. Not quite sure. The carb and fuel pump aren’t even a year old. I examined the needle and the float. Looks fine, even passed the upside down blow check. Think I’m gonna order a new carb