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Old 03-20-2021, 08:44 PM   #1
george_the_mule
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Default 1st Time Cushman Truckster Owner with Questions

Hi All!
I just got my first Cushman yesterday; a 1985 Truckster, in . . . aah, _servicable_ condition. My main goal for this thing is, alas, for a poop-cart; I keep Equines, and I'm dolefully tired of dragging a hand-cart loaded with horse sh*t around :-P
Mechanically, the Truckster appears to be in reasonably good condition, but it doesn't run very well; it seems to have difficulties coming off idle, it doesn't always idle, it doesn't make very much usable power, and the carb (Keihin) leaks gas sometimes. Sigh.
I took things apart this morning, and found a couple of problems; the ignition timing was off (at least the points gap was out of spec), and somehow the linkage to the choke had been compromised, and the choke butterfly was flappin' in the breeze. And the carb interior was filthy, as was the "timer", at least in the area surrounding the points.
All easy fixes, and I'm cautiously hopeful that getting these things back to where they belong will help a bit.
But I have questions about the "governor" assembly/function. I found your forum via a Google search for ". . . governor", which landed this thread:
"Cushman 22hp throttle barely opens"
where CharleyL comments that he has one with the governor disabled.
CharleyL, you still around? How was that accomplished, if you don't mind me asking? My Truckster appears to have the same situation as the OPs in the above mentioned thread; the actual throttle butterfly barely moves in response to pressing the accelerator pedal to the floor. Maybe this is normal, but I'd sure like to get that variable out of the equation, at least until I have the basic engine running acceptably.
Also, my home is at ~6500ft. Most carbed engines benefit from leaner jetting at this elevation. The carb in mine had obviously been opened, and someone with clumsy hands had removed/re-installed the main jet (at least).
The installed main was a 118, the pilot was 48 and the air screw was 3/4 turn out.
I can't seem to find info as to what the stock jets were supposed to be; does anyone know? And anything about that governor thing would be greatly appreciated.
Well, and any thoughts at all about putting this thing back into light duty. I already know that the dump hydraulics leak a bit. And the brakes leave a lot to be desired. And you can see the air thru the front tire. And . . .
"Why'd I bring this ****ed thing home, anyway? Oh, yeah; it was cheap." ;-)

TIA! Steve (and George the Mule)
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Old 03-21-2021, 11:56 AM   #2
CharleyL
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Default Re: 1st Time Cushman Truckster Owner with Questions

Steve,

Go to the www.sillylittlecars.com website. Then "manuals" and then click on "Shop and Maintenance Manuals in the text. The Cushman 826767 Supplement. This manual has a good section on the OMC engines that should give you all the information that you need about them. The Keihin Carburetor definitely needs a good cleaning. Rebuild kits didn't exist when I rebuilt mine, but the parts can be obtained. Make certain to buy a new float and float bowl needle valve. This should correct your flooding and carburetor overflow problem. I have posted the parts list for the Keihin carburetors as that is not part of the supplement manual. If you don't find my post containing it, let me know and I'll find and re-post it. A good thorough cleaning of the carburetor, replacement of the float and float needle valve, and a new accelerator pump diaphram will do wonders for how well the engine runs. There may be a tiny filter screen in the carburetor inlet. It is likely plugged and no longer available for replacement just remove it and discard it using a pair of needle nose pliers. You won't need it if you have installed a new fuel filter in the fuel line.

Thoroughly inspect the inside of your gas tank for rust. If it is like my 1987 tank, it is full of rust. KBS Coatings makes gas tank relining kits and sells them on Amazon. Getting one of these kits and using it will clean out the tank rust, and then line your tank with an epoxy-like coating that will make it better than new. It will even plug pin holes, if there are any. The process takes about 2 hours, spread out over a week. You will need some thick pipe cleaners to clean out the tubes after the coating is installed, and a good sealing fill cap to use during this relining process. You will likely want to buy a new cap after completion. My new cap came from the auto parts store, but it is unvented, and the original is vented, so a modification will likely be needed. You just need to remove the insides of the cap and put a hole in the cap gasket, if the cap that you buy is like mine.

The OEM fuel pump is likely bad, or will be very soon, because the rubber parts go bad over time. Replacement fuel pumps are either NOS (New Old Stock) and incredibly expensive (likely rotted from age too) or simply unobtanium. If you find and buy one, it likely won't last very long - a waste of money. I removed the OEM fuel pump and made a metal cap and gasket to plug the hole where it had been mounted, but you could just leave the old pump there and leave it disconnected. I bought an electric fuel pump for my Truckster, mounted it on the frame just forward of the fuel tank outlet with a filter between them and piped the fuel pump outlet direct to the carburetor. You don't need or want the bypass filter with the side pipe, so remove it and plug the return pipe back into the top of the fuel tank. These new automotive electric fuel pumps have internal pressure regulation, so bypass filters and return hoses aren't needed. When starting the motor with an electric fuel pump, you just turn the key on and then wait a few seconds for pressure to build before engaging the starter. With my newly rebuilt carburetor and an electric fuel pump installed, I need the choke to start the motor the first time each day, but every restart after that in 40 degree or so Weather, the motor will begin running on it's own in about one revolution after the starter is engaged. electrical connections are simple. The black wire goes to the frame ground. The red wire goes to anywhere that is on when the key switch is on. Mine attaches to the ignition voltage wire that goes from the key switch to the coils.

The engine timing is done with a 12 volt bulb as a test light connected between the motor and points. You want to adjust the timing with the engine not running so the light goes on/off at the desired crankshaft position. The manual will show you how.

Here in NC, I gave up trying to get the air control doors to work properly, and just removed the thermal bellows and linkage from both cylinders. Then held the doors against the front casting (casting removed) and drilled and tapped a screw hole in the casting close enough to the door so that inserting a bolt would trap the door edge under the bolt head. This was the best way that I could think of to keep them from moving and blocking the air flow, yet still be useable should I ever find some of the thermostatic bellows assemblies for them. One of mine was partially working, but the other wasn't working at all. About all they seemed to do when working was to provide some (very little) cab heat, but when they fail, they cause the motor to overheat. Bypassing them keeps the engine from overheating and it runs just like my lawnmower, which doesn't even have them.

You are very likely going to have brake trouble, as the brake system in these little trucks rusts from the inside out. The cause is the DOT 3 brake fluid, because it is alcohol based, and the brake system is vented to the atmosphere through a hole in the brake cylinder cap. Over time and atmospheric pressure changes, air is drawn in and out through this vent hole. When air is drawn in, moisture in the air freely unites with the alcohol in the brake fluid. When enough moisture is present, it begins rusting the cylinders and brake lines from the inside. New style automotive master cylinders that aren't vented seem to not be available in this style, because they also went to dual chamber master cylinders for cars at about the same time that they went to unvented design master cylinders with the rubber bellows inside the caps to separate the brake fluid from the air and humidity. Since I couldn't find a new style master cylinder that would fit my truckster without major modification, I resigned to just using a new master cylinder of the original design and vowing to replace the DOT 3 brake fluid every few years. These OEM master cylinders are still used is some model forklifts, so are still available. When last checked Amazon had them quite reasonably. My local forklift repair shop had one on the shelf and sold it to me very reasonably.

Wheel cylinders are almost the same as 1970's F100 Ford pickup trucks, but they have a bump on the outside of the casting that needs to be ground off to work in a Cushman.
The rebuilding kits for these same Ford cylinders do fit the Cushman cylinders, but I had mixed luck in the rebuilding process, because I couldn't quite get all of the pitting out of a few of my cylinders and tried rebuilding them anyway. www.directparts.com or www.denniscarpentercushman.com are your best sources of brake, drive train, and OMC motor parts. When last checked, you could still buy a new 22 hp OMC engine short block, if you wanted one. Not cheap at last check of $1,500, but still available from either source.

Most of what you will need to keep your Truckster running, steering, and braking can be found through your local auto parts stores, but they don't have a Cushman Cross Reference for what you need. It usually involves finding an older store employee who has worked many years in the business, and you showing him the broken part that you are looking for. If he can remember where one is on the shelf, you may be in luck. Cushman didn't make most of the running parts. They bought automotive parts wherever possible. If a sheet metal body part is needed, you will likely only find a used one on Ebay or someone else who has parted out a similar Cushman. Fortunately for us, they didn't change the design very often, so something from the approximate age and model will likely fit.

BTW. the same cylinder is used for both sides of the engine, and the only significand difference between the OMC 18 hp and 22 hp versions is the cylinder heads. A one cylinder version of this same engine was made for a model of Cushman Scooters too. Dennis Carpenter Cushman only claims to only sell Cushman Scooter parts, but Most of the parts for these OMC engines are still available through them. I'm only about 10 miles from them, so most of my needs come from them.

Good luck with your project. I check in here almost every day. If you have questions or need help finding something, just add to this post here and I'll do what I can to help. I have about 2 spare motors worth of parts, less the cylinders, which seem to be the weakest part of these motors, but new cylinders are still available too ($150 each complete with valves and springs when last checked).

I didn't defeat the governor in mine. It came that way, but information is available for it in that manual. I can also post photos of mine, if necessary, but I'm dealing with a bad knee, so a quick response with photos is a bit unlikely right now.

Charley
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Old 03-21-2021, 08:21 PM   #3
george_the_mule
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Default Re: 1st Time Cushman Truckster Owner with Questions

Hi Charley

Wow; that's a lot of info, Thanks! I have both of the 826767 documents, and another service manual I got from . . . ManualsPlus.com, maybe? None of 'em have much to say about the governor; how to adjust it, and an exploded drawing, but nothing about how it works. Whatever; I'll figure it out; it's just a thing. I guess nobody knows what the stock jetting was? I'll order a couple on the leaner side of the 118, and see if I can find an optimum when I feel like messin' with it. Today, I found best idle / off-idle response at 1/4 to 1/2 turn out on the idle mixture screw, so that means the pilot jet is too big, yes? Some carbs that screw adjusts the idle air, but I'm pretty sure the one on the keihin adjusts fuel flow.

Mmmm, it already has an electric fuel pump. Carb internals look OK; float isn't new, but it floats. Float needle looks like new. Accelerator pump squirts gas.
The choke needed some work; the staking that holds the shaft to the actuator arm was sorta loose; I re-staked it, and the screws holding the butterfly to the shaft were loose as well; I tightened them. The linkage is marginal, but it will probably be OK once the choke cable is re-installed.
I _did_ find that the pilot jet was completely plugged. Cleaned it out with a #80 drill bit in a pin-vice. And there was a rust colored sludge in the float bowl; looks like your comment about rust in the gas tank is on the money. Whoever put the aftermarket fuel pump in neglected to install an in-line filter. I'll have to get one for it sooner, and clean out the tank later.
I couldn't get a .02in gap from the points; best I could do was ~.015in. Worn cam-follower probably. Will need to find a replacement point set, and replace the 40yo condenser as well. I just set the timing empirically for best throttle response for the time being. The engine wasn't very responsive to changes in timing, so I suspect there are other issues; probably low compression. But with just the little attention paid to it, it is running 1000% better. I'm sure the choke and pilot jet were the main issues, but I will do a better job with the timing, and put all of the cables and linkages back together the next work session. May check compression as well, but I have no intention of rebuilding the engine this go-round, so it pretty much is what it is for now. I found a complete front wheel with a good tire on eBay; that will be here next week, and I'll get some points on order too. In any event, I have no doubt that the Cushman will move right along now, and that was my immediate intent, so mission accomplished.
FWIW, I plan to set timing by locating TDC with a screwdriver thru the spark plug hole, marking it on the front pulley with a white crayon, and using a timing light. I have used a 12v light as you describe, and also an audio oscillator that changes tone when the points open, but find both more prone to error than an inductive timing light. At this point, I don't think it's gonna matter much anyway.
I would have finished it up today, but I was chased inside by cold and heavy snow. We got about 2ft of snow, and a full-tilt blizzard last weekend. That was just starting to go away, and here comes another one. NWS sez a foot or more tonight and tomorrow, already about 6 inches on the ground, so they will probably be revising their prognostication in an upwards direction. Springtime in the Rockies.

Thanks again. Talk later, Steve
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Old 03-25-2021, 06:42 PM   #4
CharleyL
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Default Re: 1st Time Cushman Truckster Owner with Questions

I missed being on here for a few days because Windows 10 decided to lock me out of my computer. But I'm back now, I think.

There are plenty of that size wheel on the market, but the hole pattern is wrong for Cushman vehicles. I have a couple of original spares, so I will likely never need any more. A careful setup of a drill press can drill and taper a new set of wheel lug holes between the original set of holes in these newer wheels and then they will fit the new trailers as well as old Cushman Trucksters. I know of several Truckster owners who have done this with good results. My tires came from Northern and you can get the tires already on rims from them, but the hole pattern will be wrong, almost right, but wrong. Lug nuts and replaceable lugs are readily available at the auto parts stores too, but not the brake drums or brakes. Direct Parts is your source for these.


There should be a timing label on the front casting of the motor and marks on the flywheel, so you shouldn't need the screwdriver method for finding TDC.

Check your valve stem to rocker arm gap. It makes a big difference in these underpowered vehicles. Set them per the manual. It's a fussy job to get right, but well worth it. I once owned a 66 VW Bus, so I got really good at adjusting the valves and peaking the timing to get every bit of horsepower possible.

The carburetor float level is so important, that if you do nothing else to the carburetor, at least give it a new float and float needle valve. Look in the end of the inlet pipe to see if that screen is still in there, and get it out. You likely won't be able to clean the screen and they are no longer available, so just discard it. An automotive in-line fuel filter between the tank and fuel pump is better anyway.

You can likely get points and condenser from the auto parts store, but take your old ones with you so they can match them up. They won't have Cushman in their cross reference. Another way is to buy from Dennis Carpenter Cushman or Direct Parts, in which case you can order the parts using the Cushman part numbers. Give it a new set of spark plugs too.

The compression isn't very high in these, and I forget what mine was. I think roughly equal compression is more of what you should be looking for.

Also, make certain that all of the cooling fins on the outside of the cylinders and under side of the engine block are all clean, and the thermal bellows and damper doors are controlling the engine temperature properly. When they fail, you overheat the engine. The next thing that happens is that the exhaust valves break. DAMHIKT. I now have new stainless exhaust valves in my Truckster engine, bought from Dennis Carpenter Cushman.

Charley
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Old 04-01-2021, 11:30 PM   #5
george_the_mule
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Default Re: 1st Time Cushman Truckster Owner with Questions

Just closing the loop on this:
Did the points and timing, did the valves, checked compression, all OK, but still not running 100%. Eventually I discovered that the plug wire on the drivers side cylinder was marginal; not much spark at the plug. Replaced it with an old Subaru plug-wire from the junk-box, installed a clean spark plug, and it's running like a champ now.
I did bypass the governor, did it by removing the the ball-link to the carb throttle, and the short piece of linkage that carries the governor end of ball link. For the time being, I simply took a length of fence wire, bent a yoke around the engine end of the throttle linkage, and a closed loop around the ball on the carb on the other end. Couldn't be any simpler. But I will re-work this by welding a tab on the throttle linkage, installing the ball on it, and then re-installing the adjustable ball-link directly from the throttle link to the carb next time I have a spare Round Tuit.
The reason I used a feeler (screwdriver) to find TDC was that I couldn't see the front of the engine due to this POS air duct assembly that carries outside air from the left side beneath the seat, to the fan opening. It had broken at some point, and had been patched back together, and welded in place. I finally became frustrated, and un-welded it with a hammer and chisel. Once that was out of the way things became a lot easier in the "engine compartment", and I don't think I will bother re-installing it. I can't see where it would aid much with air flow, but it probably does help keep water and debris out of the fan. Maybe I'll affix a metal screen to the front of the engine to help with that if it looks like it might be a problem.
Once it was running properly, I drove the Cushman around the property a bit to get a feel for how it handles the rough ground, and it is fairly impressive. I _like_ it. It starts in on its new job tomorrow :-)
Steve
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Old 04-02-2021, 01:53 PM   #6
CharleyL
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Default Re: 1st Time Cushman Truckster Owner with Questions

Glad you got things sorted out well. Don't hesitate to come back if you need more help. I check in here almost every day, but do miss a day every now and then when my days get too busy to sit here or I make a trip somewhere.

Check the brakes and change the brake fluid. It's the only way to easily solve the internal brake system rusting problem. There is a silicone based brake fluid that is better, but to use it, every drop of DOT 3 brake fluid must be out of the system before it can be used. They are not compatible with each other. I just decided that replacing the DOT 3 fluid every few years to keep it's moisture content low was easier.

Charley
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Old 04-04-2021, 07:11 PM   #7
CharleyL
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Default Re: 1st Time Cushman Truckster Owner with Questions

Here is another source for some Cushman Truckster parts and manuals in pdf form, although I think their prices are a bit high. Still, they may have something you need when others don't. https://www.x-tremedist.com/cushman-manuals

Charley
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