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Old 02-13-2021, 07:25 PM   #11
Tankercart
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Default Re: Par car slow all the time

welp… I accidently ordered the wrong size piston rings so I had to wait an extra week.. but now the new rings and gaskets are installed! atlas the compression didn't change. It tops out at 64 psi. The cylinder looks pretty decent, smooth and honed. BUT the exhaust post looks suspect. it's little eroded maybe larger, doesn't look factory. I have a picture but idk how to upload them on here. any thoughts?
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Old 02-14-2021, 12:19 PM   #12
AGELE55
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Default Re: Par car slow all the time

I assume you mean exhaust “port”... lol
If you’re not building compression, that air has got to be going somewhere....
*either past the rings, which is pretty much eliminated. Unless...What was your ring gap? Did you measure it? Mine was WAY, WAY HUGE and I still had 100 psi.
* back flowing though the reed valve?
* forgive the stupid question, but any chance the piston is in backwards?
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Old 02-14-2021, 01:46 PM   #13
Tankercart
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Default Re: Par car slow all the time

These are all great questions. I didn’t measure the ring gap. I didn’t know there was a measurement that could be taken, I just bought standard rings, honed the cylinder and hoped for the best. The reed valve hasn’t been inspected yet either. Is it common to blow back through there? This guy has no problem starting. Starts quick and gets good fuel flow, does that mean the crank seals are fine? As for the piston on being backwards I don’t know. I never took it off so I’m assuming it was right when I put new rings on it.

As for the exhaust port is there an acceptable amount of wear? Has anyone had a problem with it enlarging and losing compression?
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Old 02-14-2021, 06:29 PM   #14
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Default Re: Par car slow all the time

Ring gap is measured by sticking the new ring into the cylinder and using the piston to poke it in and “square it up evenly”. Then use a feeler gauge to see how big the gap is. I wanna say mine was supposed to be .002 but the old rings were past .005. You could drive a bus through it and it still produced 100+ psi. So I’m thinking you’re ok.

The reed valve is simply a one way door. Air comes in and the door should slam behind it. If it’s leaky, It could account fog low psi ...I think.

As for the piston question- I’ve never see a piston in backwards but I know it’s easy to do. A two stroke piston has slots in the skirt which must face a certain direction. There should be an arrow on top of the piston pointing toward the exhaust port. Not sure what would happen if it’s in backwards.. just thinking up stuff to look at.

Crank seals can cause low compression below the piston , but I don’t think they can cause low compression above the piston.

Maybe hit up your local Autozone for a loaner compression tester to double check your numbers.

And- I have never even heard of exhaust port wear. Is just hot air passing through. I’m thinking you need to decode the picture upload process so we can see it.
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Old 02-14-2021, 09:19 PM   #15
Tankercart
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Default Re: Par car slow all the time

Oh that’s cool. When I put the cylinder on with new rings I noticed it much more snug then when taking the cylinder off with the old rings. As for the arrow I lightly cleaned some carbon off the piston but I didn’t notice an arrow. Good to know tho. Looking at the piston with engine still installed the locking pins where in the 2 and 12 o’clock position if that tells you anything. I’ll take off the reed valve tomorrow and look at it. But here is a picture of the exhaust port.
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Old 02-14-2021, 09:21 PM   #16
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Old 02-15-2021, 12:52 AM   #17
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Default Re: Par car slow all the time

If you look at your old rings are they an even width? I wonder if you maybe are not round? 2 strokes seem to often wear the bore unevenly. When you check the ring gap try the ring in different places in the bore and try a light below it and look for a gap between the ring and the wall.

The types and sizes of hones the typical DIYer have access to don't do anything for an out of round bore and also don't do well with the ports in 2 strokes.

All that said and you still getting the same reading before and after is a bit strange. Have any other engines you could try your gauge on to make sure all engines don't read 60?
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Old 02-15-2021, 08:00 AM   #18
Tankercart
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Default Re: Par car slow all the time

Well I don’t have the old rings anymore because I broke on for cleaning the piston then threw them both away. I checked my tester against my air compressor. I set the air compressor to 100psi then shot it into the compression tester and it was pretty close.
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Old 02-15-2021, 08:56 AM   #19
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Default Re: Par car slow all the time

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tankercart View Post
Oh that’s cool. When I put the cylinder on with new rings I noticed it much more snug then when taking the cylinder off with the old rings. As for the arrow I lightly cleaned some carbon off the piston but I didn’t notice an arrow. Good to know tho. Looking at the piston with engine still installed the locking pins where in the 2 and 12 o’clock position if that tells you anything. I’ll take off the reed valve tomorrow and look at it. But here is a picture of the exhaust port.
That’s not erosion. That is carbon build up! Looks like someone ran this thing with a super heavy oil to gas ratio. Get in there with a good scraper and chisel it out. If the exhaust port is that bad, you can pretty much bet you exhaust is suffering from the same “hardening of the arteries”. You might want to look into tossing your exhaust onto a good fire and burning it out. Look for “exhaust BBQ” threads on here and you’ll see what I mean.

Hey...hmmm... Did you try testing your compression with the muffler disconnected? If the muffler is clogged and causing low compression readings, disconnecting would reveal the issue during a compression test. If your cart engine can’t pull in fresh air, then it’ll have low compression. So if your exhaust is clogged, your cart engine gets low compression.

I think this baby is gasping for air. Let her breath!
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Old 02-15-2021, 09:31 AM   #20
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Default Re: Par car slow all the time

This is getting tricky.

Crank seals shouldn't be in play as they are mostly out of the compression loop. Same with the reed valve. Even the muffler shouldn't have too much to do with compression. A clogged muffler will absolutely rob power but I am not sure that it will impact compression much.

I am wondering if there is something physically wrong with the cylinder or head. Make sure there are no tiny cracks or nicks or anything where the head connects to the cylinder. Try the "soapy water" trick around the head and base gaskets when the engine is running to see if you can see any leaks.
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