Tips on replacing crank seals 90 3pg

[Nascarfastcar]

Hello after attempting to install a hei ignitor I got a few nasty backfires. I notice a few puffs of smok coming out from under the engine near the clutch when these back fires happened.
I installed the original ignitor back in and the cart started as it should. After letting the cart sit I noticed sometimes it will just keep turning over and sometimes it will fire up after a few turns. Its definitely not like how it use to be. It use to fire right up when the pedal was pushed.
I tried spraying starting fluid near the seal behind the clutch and still nothing. I tried as well in the flywheel cover. As far as I know these seals are original.
Now I have a few questions.
First I installed a new fuel pump. Could a backfire damage the diaphragm inside the pump or should that still be okay?
Second I have never replaced seals before and have done some research.
What's the easiest way to remove them? Besides cleaning the area is there any certain prep that should be done? I've heard people using green loctite and punching the edges? How do you apply the loctite?
I've had the clutch off and engine out before so no questions there.
But I have never removed the flywheel shroud. Any certain procedures to remove the fan. Pulsar etc?
The cart equally acts like this the same in forward and reverse.
If anyone could give me some advice much appreciated.

[Nascarfastcar]

Okay guys I was able to find a manual 89-93 with detailed instructions on the flywheel etc. But still need advice on removal prep and reinstall w/ loctite?

[redm18]

Originally Posted by Nascarfastcar

Okay guys I was able to find a manual 89-93 with detailed instructions on the flywheel etc. But still need advice on removal prep and reinstall w/ loctite?

It says in the manual you don't have to split the case to change the seals but it seems like it would be quite the trick as at least mine were in there pretty good. I knocked them out with a socket and a mallet from the back side after I got the bearings out.

[Spicyunicorn]

Seal puller to remove seals from the out side it's a great tool you run the screw into the seal and use the slid hammer to pull the seal out

[Nascarfastcar]

Thanks guys dont think I'll have a problem removing them. More confused on the install. Blue or green loctite? And where at? Lube the inside diameter? Also I understand staking the edges with a punch but not to show exactly where.

[cart around]

I used green because it has a strong strength, and it was available at work.
Do not put it on the inside diameter. The seal has a metal outer shell, and an inner rubber seal. Put the Loctite on the outside of the metal shell where it makes contact with the bore of the engine case. DO NOT SLOP IT ON. Do not get any on the bearing. Do not get any on the rubber seal.

When you stake it in, you will ding the aluminum case of the engine around the edge of the seal. Just enough to make a little bulge in the edge of the case. The bulge will help hold the seal.

[Nascarfastcar]

Thanks all

[Nascarfastcar]

Now before i reassemble this I took a picture of the pulsar plate. I have no idea if anyone has touched this before but it seems like it was advanced in timing. The book says the slots should be dead center on the screw heads. The timing mark on the plate before I took it apart was set to the center of the screw head. Here's some pics.

[cart around]

The 2-pg book says to center the screws. A few months back there was a discussion about the 3-pg being offset.

Since you are using a 3-pg book that says to center the screws, that's exactly what I would do.

I found it. Read through this. http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-e...-ezgo-3pg.html

[Nascarfastcar]

Hmm I wonder if it being like this (advanced) is the reason the hei ignitor caused a bunch of backfires...