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Old 01-27-2021, 12:22 PM   #31
daviddavid
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Default Re: '87 engine removal

I'm not saying the clutches aren't your problem, they may be, Jacking up the rear end and watching them as you open the throttle as cart around suggested is a great test.

Those move as the RPMs increase which is constantly adjusting your gear ratio to keep you in the powerband of the engine. If one is stuck it could be essentially keeping you in "low gear" and limiting your speed. Or if the belt is slipping it could certainly keep your speed down as well.

Youtube "snowmobile CVT" videos to get a better idea of how it works.
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Old 01-27-2021, 02:17 PM   #32
cart around
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Default Re: '87 engine removal

Rolling the belt off is completely different from squeezing the plates.

Look at these pictures. Two are squeezed, and one isn't. That's a worn out bushing. If you can squeeze it, the clutch will never properly grab the belt. It was impossible to move my new clutch like that.


I'm not saying this is the problem. I'm saying it's a possibility that needs to be tested.
The same as worn cradle mounts are a possibility.

That's what we do around here. We throw out possibilities because we aren't there to see it for ourselves.
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File Type: jpg normal clutch.jpg (141.6 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg clutch squeezed 1.jpg (123.2 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg clutch squeezed 2.jpg (155.5 KB, 0 views)
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Old 01-27-2021, 02:37 PM   #33
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Default Re: '87 engine removal

I just didn't want him to replace a clutch just because he could move it by hand. According to the service manual, moving it by hand is normal.
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Old 01-27-2021, 02:51 PM   #34
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Default Re: '87 engine removal

That's absolutely not what it says.

Per your quote.
"Pull up on the drive belt and rotate the movable sheave of the driven clutch (mounted on the differential pinion shaft) backwards to separate the sheaves; then roll the belt over the movable sheave."

It says pull up on the belt, and ROTATE the clutch. You pull up on the belt to get it on the edge of the clutch, and roll it off by pushing the cart, or twisting the clutch.

It doesn't say squeeze the plates together to make them lean against each other. That's because you're not supposed to be able to do that.
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Old 01-27-2021, 02:51 PM   #35
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Default Re: '87 engine removal

After looking at the photos and your first response again, I realized you were talking about squeezing the driven clutch together while I was talking about pushing the plates apart. I'd agree squeezing them together should not be possible based on how it normally operates.
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Old 01-27-2021, 06:18 PM   #36
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Default Re: '87 engine removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by cart around View Post
Your buddy is right, it could take a bit to seat the new rings. Having said that, 95 isn't so bad. Mine was only 100 8 years ago. It's still screaming along.

You should be moving faster than that. You say it's running better. I'll assume that you no longer need the choke to keep it running.

Maybe it's time to check the belt, and clutches. I always say a new belt is 1 3/16" wide. Anything less than an inch is junk. Take the belt off. Squeeze the driven clutch plates with your hand. You should not be strong enough to move them. If you can make the plates lean towards each other by squeezing them, the clutch is junk.

Jack up the rear end. Run it, and watch both clutches. They should both move in a smooth fluid motion. The drive clutch should squeeze together, and the belt should ride all the way to the top. The driven clutch should open up, and the belt should ride to the bottom where the plates start to angle.

EDIT: Reading back I remember that you had trouble removing the belt because of clearance. We need to see if the cradle is moving, and allowing the engine to move towards the driven clutch. That would cause a loose belt, and slower speeds.

Both belts are brand new. Yesterday I did have the rearend jacked up and the belt did ride on both clutches as described. I have not checked if I can squeeze the plates together on the driven clutch.

The choke is not needed to keep it running like before. I attached the throttle cable to the carb as so it can open up all the way. Under the cart the throttle cable appears to moving without any issues.

I appreciate your guys input on helping me diagnose my problems.
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Old 02-01-2021, 08:02 PM   #37
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Default Re: '87 engine removal

Brakes stuck?
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Old 02-02-2021, 10:22 AM   #38
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Default Re: '87 engine removal

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Originally Posted by daviddavid View Post
Brakes stuck?
I don't think so. The brakes seem to work fine even though they will need new shoes soon.
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Old 02-02-2021, 10:31 AM   #39
daviddavid
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Default Re: '87 engine removal

I'm about out of ideas...any chance you could post a video of it running?
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Old 02-02-2021, 11:22 AM   #40
hntz4x4
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Default Re: '87 engine removal

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Originally Posted by daviddavid View Post
I'm about out of ideas...any chance you could post a video of it running?
I will try to do that
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