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Old 10-12-2020, 08:03 PM   #11
slonomo
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Default Re: EZGO Workhorse / Jacobsen Build

Well, I found a million threads here about MCI vs non MCI, so I think I understand the differences. Mine is a Non MCI as it has the cast iron exhaust manifold.

Still need some guidance on rebuild/parts and power mods.
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Old 10-12-2020, 08:19 PM   #12
slonomo
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Default Re: EZGO Workhorse / Jacobsen Build

I found this on another thread, any validity to any of this?

You got bitten by the speed bug didn't you? You read all about the governor adjustment and now that's getting old. Do you want sheer power and speed?

First, remove the 1/2" bolt from the input shaft on the transaxle that holds the driven clutch on the shaft. Remove the driven clutch and key.

Second, remove the drive clutch from the engine. You may need a puller to do it.

Third, package up your drive and driven clutches and send them off to Cart Parts Plus (1.888.861.2640) for driven clutch machining, installation of the torque spring in your driven clutch, and installation of the +200 RPM engagement spring in your drive clutch.

Fourth, remove your fan cover and cooling shroud. Remove your flywheel from your engine and install the timing advance key for better throttle pickup and response.

Fifth, remove the carburetor from your engine and install the FE290 carburetor jet kit.

Sixth, install the K&N Intake for more air flow and power.

Seventh, remove your RPM limiter. It's the black box on front of the engine. It's held behind a bracket by two 10mm bolts.

Eighth, remove your head (don't forget to order a new head gasket from Cart Parts Plus) and send it to Cart Parts Plus to have them mill it down for higher compression.

Ninth, install a tachometer to keep an eye on your engine's RPMs.

Tenth, install a high-volume fuel pump to feed the newly-created beast.

Eleventh, order two fuel filters, one oil filter, one spark plug, and one drive belt.

If you're looking for even more and your pocketbook is healthy, try an 18hp Briggs & Stratton Vanguard Big Block Kit or 23hp Briggs & Stratton Vanguard Big Block Kit.
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Old 10-12-2020, 09:13 PM   #13
trig123
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Default Re: EZGO Workhorse / Jacobsen Build

Quote:
Originally Posted by slonomo View Post
I found this on another thread, any validity to any of this?

You got bitten by the speed bug didn't you? You read all about the governor adjustment and now that's getting old. Do you want sheer power and speed?

First, remove the 1/2" bolt from the input shaft on the transaxle that holds the driven clutch on the shaft. Remove the driven clutch and key.

Second, remove the drive clutch from the engine. You may need a puller to do it.

Third, package up your drive and driven clutches and send them off to Cart Parts Plus (1.888.861.2640) for driven clutch machining, installation of the torque spring in your driven clutch, and installation of the +200 RPM engagement spring in your drive clutch.

Fourth, remove your fan cover and cooling shroud. Remove your flywheel from your engine and install the timing advance key for better throttle pickup and response.

Fifth, remove the carburetor from your engine and install the FE290 carburetor jet kit.

Sixth, install the K&N Intake for more air flow and power.

Seventh, remove your RPM limiter. It's the black box on front of the engine. It's held behind a bracket by two 10mm bolts.

Eighth, remove your head (don't forget to order a new head gasket from Cart Parts Plus) and send it to Cart Parts Plus to have them mill it down for higher compression.

Ninth, install a tachometer to keep an eye on your engine's RPMs.

Tenth, install a high-volume fuel pump to feed the newly-created beast.

Eleventh, order two fuel filters, one oil filter, one spark plug, and one drive belt.

If you're looking for even more and your pocketbook is healthy, try an 18hp Briggs & Stratton Vanguard Big Block Kit or 23hp Briggs & Stratton Vanguard Big Block Kit.
No , that would be for a Club Car.
This is not for the robbin engine.
Not sure what sort of power you are looking for.

No matter what you do on this engine the rpm limiter will kick in. It is made in the ignitor and cannot be changed. RPM limiter kicks in around 3700 rpm which is good as it will save your engine. I think maybe there was one ignitor that didn't have the limiter built in. 1991 or 92 but they would be rare.

One of the best things to do is make sure your compression is good. I like to see 170 psi. Always test compression with one spark plug left in and carburetor wide open. I always remove one of the small leads on the coil when doing this.
Needs a good battery in cart to do this test.

I removed my driven clutch on both my workhorses and rebuilt them making sure the center is good and not worn. I actually bought one new center from country cat.
I always use the 28 degree center when I install larger tires and lift kit. Makes all the difference in the world if using around farm climbing large hills.

72324G01 part number for the three ram buttons -
This is what you need if you don't already have it on your cart.
CAM-FIXED MACHINED 28 DEGREE 72329G01
You can remove the driven clutch with a good 2x4 and hammer. After you get it off the marking will be seen on back of clutch. I am betting yours is the 28 degree but it probably needs some tweaking up

You could install a shorter belt for quicker take offs but they are a pain to get off and on so I left that part out. They also make the cart harder to shift from F-R.

Around these parts at one time there was a man who built these engines who would doctor the flywheel key but I have never did that. I see no need in my carts. You get that linkage set correct and they will respond the second you hit the pedal if engine is tip top.

My 2004 MPT 1200 will climb a mountain and runs like new money . I have a 4 inch lift kit on it with 22x11x10 tires.

Same with my TXT with the Workhorse front cowl. Never even thinks about stalling going up a steep him.

In my opinion the 11hp pre mci robbin engine is in the top 5 engines ever made.
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Old 10-13-2020, 04:30 AM   #14
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Default Re: EZGO Workhorse / Jacobsen Build

I agree with trig on most of this! yes you should already have the 28 degree driven clutch, Yes, change out the cam buttons on the driven clutch, Shorter belt is a reasonable addition, but i never felt i needed to do it.
If you can find a 91 igniter, it is the one of the best things to get more get up and go, as it has no limiter at all. The best mod you can do is install 295 CC cylinder head, but these are now nearly as rare as the igniter in good condition. The pre MCI is the better engine as the MCI seem to have oil feed issues for the camshaft and i have seen many of these with ruined bearing faces for the cam (pulley side) as they are an ally surface with no bearing like the big ends on the con rod. Having said that, can you guess what the most important maintenance procedure is on these engines? Yes, plenty of oil changes and regular cleaning of the oil filter. Just undo three 10mm headed bolts, pull the filter with a bowl below to catch the oil. Job done. Wash the filter out in petrol or similar and dry before replacing. If you can find a suitable oil pressure gauge, fit one as the oil lamp only shows when the pressure gets down to about 3psi and i don't think that's good enough.

My cart in my avatar started out exactly like this, 295 head, 28 degree cam on the driven clutch. Home made straight through exhaust headers with no muffler, main jet drilled out slightly, modified drive clutch to allow the cart to idle without picking up on the belt. No other mods on the engine, but it ran 25 inch tyres on an 8 inch lift and never failed to climb any hill. In Fact, where my shop was, i often used it to pull trucks that were stuck in the snow!!!!

Raw power LOL.

Eventually i fitted a 620cc v twin but that's another story.

Oh, I have three 1991 igniters, and NOOOOO, i wont sell any

I also agree with Trig, that these are one of the top cart engine to have! So smooth and simple to rebuild/repair.

That is why one of my sheds has several packed away for future use.

EDIT.
Just as an aside, make sure that your air filter system is well sealed to prevent any dust ingestion, or you will become an expert in changing inlet valves in no time. If you are going to pull the engine and strip it, i recommend installing new valves as par for the course.
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Old 10-13-2020, 03:55 PM   #15
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Default Re: EZGO Workhorse / Jacobsen Build

Thanks gentlemen! I guess I'm trying to decide if I should rebuild this engine or just install my stock 16hp Vanguard twin? I know Vanguards. The Robin engines are new to me.
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Old 10-13-2020, 08:46 PM   #16
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Default Re: EZGO Workhorse / Jacobsen Build

Quote:
Originally Posted by slonomo View Post
Thanks gentlemen! I guess I'm trying to decide if I should rebuild this engine or just install my stock 16hp Vanguard twin? I know Vanguards. The Robin engines are new to me.
You know what I would say
I wish I still had the stamina to do another one of these carts but father time has caught up with me
I will just follow your build. Keep us updated.
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Old 10-14-2020, 12:27 AM   #17
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Default Re: EZGO Workhorse / Jacobsen Build

I suppose, if you prefer the vanguard, then go for it. You would get a premium selling a good working Robin 350! but i personally would stick with the Robin if its a good engine. Just me being me LOL
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Old 10-14-2020, 07:06 AM   #18
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Default Re: EZGO Workhorse / Jacobsen Build

Yeah see that's just it, the Robin engine has something internal going on. I'm betting it's low on compression too. As I said before, it starts and runs, but barely. It coughs and spits out the carb with an accompanying metal sounding noise. The previous owner said it would need rebuilt, I just don't know to what extent. I am a fan of keeping it stock, with a few hop ups for better performance, but I don't know if I'll be happy with that, coming from the Vanguard world and all.
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Old 10-14-2020, 07:20 AM   #19
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Default Re: EZGO Workhorse / Jacobsen Build

Its Yours, so do what you want LOL
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Old 10-16-2020, 06:44 AM   #20
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Default Re: EZGO Workhorse / Jacobsen Build

Hey guys, I've decided no matter what I do with the engine that I'm going to install a lift kit on this cart. Is this front end the same as a TXT? It looks identical to me. It has the 4 bolt steering column and the rack and pinion/drag link steering. Thanks.
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