1999 DCS - bypassed reed switch, now reverse is forward

[Livingmylife93]

So, this is way more involved than the title indicates, but that's where I'm at right now...

I bought a 1999 DCS 36v that hadn't ran in years.

Bought brand new US Batteries, replaced the battery tray.
Solenoid clicked, no go.

Checked ITS, this was a couple weeks ago, but I remember the white wire (pin 1) read 6 something volts and not changing at all with the pedal. Ordered a new one and moved forward. No change.

Cart came with an Alltrax DCX 300. The LED on it never lit up, had power at pins 6,9,10 so deemed that as bad and replaced it with an Amazon 1206SX controller (I know, but I'm cheap and like fast shipping).

Amazon controller made cart run, but not well. It would barely creep, then take off like crazy. But ultimately it was working well enough (for the 2 minute test ride), then it just got really slow. At this point I was kinda happy, because I knew the thing ran and drove, brakes and suspension felt good etc...

My mind went back to ITS, because of the erratic acceleration. I still had the old ITS laying around, so I threw that back in, just to see (currently still in cart), and there was no change. Started checking wires, found high resistance in the 4 pin connection from ITS to controller. I cut it out and soldered everything back together. No more resistance.

For a little while, I thought this fixed my issue with abrupt acceleration, because on jack stands it seemed nice and smooth - but very slow. I put the cart on the ground and it will barely move. Litterally barely crawls, and it's stronger in reverse then forward. I can stop it with my foot, at full throttle. I drove it around my driveway for about 30 seconds, then had to push it back.

Checked hubs, they are fine. Cables throughout the cart are all clean, but old. No signs of cables rubbing anywhere. No heat build up. Pack voltage was around 38v, none of the batteries drop out under load. Voltage getting to motor. Solenoid always clicks on and off. I know the batteries could use a charge, just never got to it. They are currently charging as I write this.

Now... I messed with this cart all night. I realized that even if it's plugged in to charger, I can attempt to drive away. The reed switch was not bypassed at this time. I thought to myself, maybe this reed switch is interfering with something somehow and bypassed it, as shown on this forum. Turned key switch on, heard a slight pop from solenoid/controller area. Cart now does nothing in reverse, and slowly crawls backwards in forward...

I'm at a loss. I can return the controller, but don't have Alltrax money available... So please, don't just tell me to go Alltrax (especially because I pulled a bad one out of this cart in the first place). I believe the controller was originally the issue, and may still be some of my issue, but I believe I have problems elsewhere.

I did pull 1 wire off the buzzer while working on it tonight, because I got tired of listening to it.

More strange stuff - I currently have 0v on pin 1 white wire. But cart was turning the motor fine on jack stands... Continuity and resistance on the white and black wires (p1,p2) is perfect.

Current readings at 10 pin connector:
1 - 0v
2 - 13.5 up, 6.2 down
3- 0v
4- 38v reverse only
5 - 38v pedal down
6 -38v, 37.1 pedal down
7 -38 until pedal pushed then 0
8 - empty
9 - 38
10 - 38, 34.5 pedal down

Ill clarify as much as I can if needed, and will go take pictures or readings whenever I can. I need to get this figured out.

Carts have been kicking my butt lately... I have a CC DS Regen 1 that has also been a nightmare .. but let's stay focused.

Thank you guys in advance.

[Johnland81]

I have a 97 dcs cart that I’m trying to bring back and it’s giving me the same issue you’re having. Mine will run pretty decent in reverse but creeps in forward for a ways then will take off. I’m going to pull the motor and check the brushes next.

[Livingmylife93]

That's my next step as well.

Since I posted this, I put the reed switch back to normal and reconnected reverse buzzer.

My readings at the 10 pin connector are now reading proper. Still have reverse only and creeping.

[Livingmylife93]

Following up for future reference -

I pulled the motor tonight and found the field was covered in melted enamel. I had been getting inconsistent readings of resistance when originally testing the motor, and it still somewhat worked.

I'm going to assume, that the motor took out the original Alltrax as well as my replacement unit (due to my negligence).