getting the lights working

[rhetttullis]

I have a ezgo txt (label says it is an 04 although someone has changed out some parts over the years I think)

I have installed a DC house 36 v lithium in my cart and it runs great. working on the lights now. I believe these were original to the cart based on what I am seeing online but not certain.

Prior to removal the positive and negative for the lights were wired to the main posts on the batteries (right where everything else came in and was connected) this makes me wonder are there some carts with 36 volt lights? would I still need a voltage reducer?

The cart also had the green (ground) for the fusebox wired to a positive terminal on one of the batteries. shouldn't that be bolted to the frame somewhere?

I have attached a photo of the green wire and the original connections to the batteries where the positive and negative for the lights were connected for reference.

[kgsc]

Original configuration for factory 12v tap was green + 12v wire from the + of the back center battery going to the fuse block. Negative 12v wire was on pack negative and probably came out of a cloth wire loom.

[rhetttullis]

so then I would assume the lights are 12 volt then. which brings me back to the wiring.

I have
red and black off the lights which I assume are positive and negative

should I just then run the green line to ground or connect to the negative at this point?

I think on the reducer I would then replace the wire for the lights on the key assembly with the line off the reducer correct?

i ordered a pro chaser voltage reducer

[kgsc]

Green wire is the positive for the 12v circuit going to the fuse box. It should not go to the frame. The negative of that circuit goes to pack negative. Should have a red wire grouped with it that goes to pack positive and then to the meter on the dash.

[rhetttullis]

Thanks this helps a lot!

[Capt. Lenny]

Just an FYI, nothing gets grounded to the frame. (As is typical in automotive)

[rhetttullis]

Originally Posted by Capt. Lenny

Just an FYI, nothing gets grounded to the frame. (As is typical in automotive)

so based on this diagram and what you are saying I would wire

-thin black to black on my batteries
-thick red to red on battery
-thick black to black coming from lights
-yellow to red coming from lights
-thing red to the green which goes through the fuse box and on to the key based on what I am seeing.

does this sound right? hope I am not missing something here. sorry I do more construction that "auto" repair just learning slowly.

[rhetttullis]

Ok I got it worked out. I had to join the Red line to the battery with the green line. from there everything else was fine. Working good now. I did manage to burn out the headlights though (tail lights are fine) so need to track those down or upgrade from the halogen ones it has on it.

[Cobra,1]

I upgraded from Halogen bulbs to l e d lights.much better headlights

[rhetttullis]

Ok so maybe I have this down?

I did a bit of testing and the back lights are working fine. when I test the current at those likes though I am getting 36 volts. maybe those bulbs are higher capacity or I have a bad tester? well it works that's for sure but not sure what I have wrong here is what I have on the voltage reducer
-thin red to key
-yellow to light positive (red)
-thick black to light negative (black)
-thick red to positive battery
-thin black to battery negative
-green off fuse box on cart is wired to battery positive

it works, voltage may be high but lights are holding otherwise not for sure where I am off, if anything it is the green line needing to be run to another spot.

also the fuse box has 20 amp fuses and they are fine so I must just have a bad multimeter somehow.