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Old 12-04-2024, 05:49 PM   #11
TheCartBoy
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Default Re: Curtis controller

Use a variable DC power supply and programming cable to bench test the controller.

https://www.noco-evco.com/product/CU...ming_Cable.htm
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Old 12-06-2024, 11:11 AM   #12
Jrwebster
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Default Re: Curtis controller

Again thanks for all the help and interest

I did "slip the motor apart" . I was very clean inside!! and turns very easily.

I guess I need to dig deeper into the controller.

I have time:).. And I have a collection of 12 volt batterie that I a can series together for 72 volts.

Is there an an easy(cheap) method to activate the controller to see if it runs the motor before I reinstall the motor.


thx

Randy
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Old 12-09-2024, 05:05 PM   #13
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Default Re: Curtis controller

Hi,

I dug deeper into the Battery pack.

It appears to be 20 cells in series to achieve the 72 volts?

Several of the cells appear still functional. They show about 3.2/3.5.

The question is the entire pack is supposed to be 170AH.

If I understand series and parallel, then there are no parallel cells.

then the individual pack is capable if 170AH at 3.5 volt?? WOW Is that possible?

randy
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Old 12-09-2024, 05:49 PM   #14
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Default Re: Curtis controller

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jrwebster View Post

Is there an an easy(cheap) method to activate the controller to see if it runs the motor before I reinstall the motor.


thx

Randy
You can't run the motor w/o attaching it to the Transaxle!
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Old 12-12-2024, 01:31 PM   #15
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Default Re: Curtis controller

Quote:
Originally Posted by ojo View Post
You can't run the motor w/o attaching it to the Transaxle!
You actually can run this one without mounting it to the differential. It has a bearings to carry the rotor on both ends of the motor housing.

I have tested a few, but I can't say it's cheap or easy to do, unless your set up for it.

I can test the motor for you, but I personally wouldn't go through the trouble of shipping it back and forth, unless you fell like it is necessary. If salt water gets into that motor, it would corrode very quickly. If you see no corrosion, and the bearings spin free and smooth, it will almost certainly be good.

I cant say the same for the encoder on the end of the motor. If salt water got inside of the cover where the encoder is mounted, it will more than likely be damaged. If it is, it may prove difficult to find a replacement.

You can inspect your controller for water intrusion by removing the cover. It is a little bit of effort, but it will come off without damage. You will need to tool, like a flat blade screwdriver, and remove the epoxy that is poured around the main lugs, and probably the screw holes that the cover is attached with. Remove the screws and gently pry off the plastic cover. Just take your time.
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Old 12-12-2024, 01:53 PM   #16
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Default Re: Curtis controller

Quote:
Originally Posted by sleeplesstwo View Post
You actually can run this one without mounting it to the differential. It has a bearings to carry the rotor on both ends of the motor housing.

I have tested a few, but I can't say it's cheap or easy to do, unless your set up for it.

I can test the motor for you, but I personally wouldn't go through the trouble of shipping it back and forth, unless you fell like it is necessary. If salt water gets into that motor, it would corrode very quickly. If you see no corrosion, and the bearings spin free and smooth, it will almost certainly be good.

I cant say the same for the encoder on the end of the motor. If salt water got inside of the cover where the encoder is mounted, it will more than likely be damaged. If it is, it may prove difficult to find a replacement.

You can inspect your controller for water intrusion by removing the cover. It is a little bit of effort, but it will come off without damage. You will need to tool, like a flat blade screwdriver, and remove the epoxy that is poured around the main lugs, and probably the screw holes that the cover is attached with. Remove the screws and gently pry off the plastic cover. Just take your time.
Always something to learn...
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Old 12-12-2024, 08:01 PM   #17
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Default Re: Curtis controller

Thx Sleeplesstwo,

I am very new to AC cart motors and controllers.

I did open the motor and it was amazing clean!! and spun with no effort!!

And I did remover a small plate on the opposite end. But my photos did not work. It was very shiny with a toothed gear on the shaft.

I don't really understand the controller. Should I have been able to see it?? I don't understand about controllers?? Very new to me.

Thanks for all the help and tutoring ...

Randy
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Old 12-13-2024, 06:47 AM   #18
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Default Re: Curtis controller

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jrwebster View Post
Thx Sleeplesstwo,

I am very new to AC cart motors and controllers.

I did open the motor and it was amazing clean!! and spun with no effort!!

And I did remover a small plate on the opposite end. But my photos did not work. It was very shiny with a toothed gear on the shaft.

I don't really understand the controller. Should I have been able to see it?? I don't understand about controllers?? Very new to me.

Thanks for all the help and tutoring ...

Randy
As you have described, under the cover in the picture should be a "gear" looking part. sticking down through the top of the motor is the speed sensor.
The sensor is a sealed unit, and should be good. If the "gear" is clean and rust free, it will be fine as well.

I would clean it up and put it back together.

I am not sure what you mean by can't see the controller. Have you powered it up, or connected it to handheld?
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Old 01-19-2025, 05:50 PM   #19
Jrwebster
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Default Re: Curtis controller

I finally am back to my cart. I took apart the controller. Unfortunately it has some water inside. It looks like it came in the pin connector and did not so much damage. I would try to replace the corroded smd devices if ai had a schematic or a photo of what is missing.

If you have an open controller and could post a closeup of the circuit board near the pin connector that would be great....

thanks
Randy
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