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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV. |
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#1 |
Gone Wild
![]() Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: CT
Posts: 320
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![]() Ran the cart a bunch testing out the new motor I got..the pack voltage ran down to 36.2V. Plugged it in the charger and it kicked on to 15AMP and was humming along. Pack voltage climbed to 42V in about 3 mins and then the charger just clicked off...while still plugged in it dropped down to 36.6V in about 10 minutes and won't turn back on.... I unplugged it from the cart and plugged it back in, but it's the same cycle only way, faster shutting off in 10 seconds and dropping to 36.6V in a minute....charger problem?
Edit: quick dumb video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vnbVJlOkU5w |
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#2 |
Techno-Nerd
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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![]() Sounds like a bad connection (excessive resistance) in the charging circuit. Someplace between the heatsink the diodes are on and the transformer center-tap inside the charger and the main + and - terminals on the battery pack inside the cart.
Your dash mounted DVM is connected between the battery pack's main + and - terminals, but the charger's control board is looking at the voltage between the heatsink and center-tap. Excessive resistance in the wires/cables connecting those points will cause a higher voltage to be seen at the control board than at the battery pack when there is amp flow in the charging circuit. Clean all the connections and the problem might go away. The charger is likely to be working normally, just seeing artificially high voltage. Attached is a TC-III manual. |
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#3 |
Gone Wild
![]() Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: CT
Posts: 320
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![]() Thanks for the info and PDF, JohnnieB. I'll crack her open tonight and give a good cleaning.
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#4 |
Techno-Nerd
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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#5 | |
Gone Wild
![]() Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: CT
Posts: 320
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#6 |
Techno-Nerd
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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![]() Wow, that charger needs some TLC. All the connections look corroded, but only the ones from the transformer to the B- (black) wire in the output cable through the cart's battery pack and back in on the B+ (white) wire through the diodes to the transformer will cause the control board to see higher voltage than it should. I suspect it'll work normally when the excessive resistance is gotten out of the charging loop.
---------- Don't know anything good or bad about the charge you linked to. |
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#7 |
Gone Wild
![]() Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: CT
Posts: 320
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![]() Update: so all I did was take the cover off, remove and clean the heatsink and the 3 connections, mount it all back to the frame and it charged for just under a minute. Then a pop and the brightest light I've ever seen other than a welder or the sun come from this post, and the fuse tried to pop but didn't and smoke just poured from it, AMPS dropped to zero and the cord connecting it to the cart got REALLY HOT and the pack voltage dropped to 28V before I unhooked the **** thing! WOW. I'm telling you it was that simple. Cleaned off the plate and connectors with a wire brush and just bolted it all back together. Safe to say it's toast now
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#8 |
Techno-Nerd
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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![]() Sounds like Murphy wanted you to get a new charger.
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#9 |
Gone Wild
![]() Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: CT
Posts: 320
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