2011 Carryall Help Needed

[PMD3454]

Purchased a 2011 Carryall Turf2, dry batteries, but in great shape, and showing 1200 hrs. New T105 trojans installed but no go. I've started to check things but with little experience I'm needing some guidance on where to go next. Here's where I've been.
> 50.2V across pack
> reverse buzzer works with key off or on
> charger will not turn on when plugged in
> with key switch on, press pedal, limit switch clicks and solenoid engages. release pedal and solenoid drops out. Same for reverse.
> 48V at key switch top post, and 48V at key switch load side when key is on
> jumping batt neg to small yellow on solenoid activates solenoid, but cart still not moving
> 50V on solenoid red main terminal when solenoid not engaged, 0 volts on other large post
> when solenoid is engaged by either turning the key switch on and holding pedal down, or when jumping to batt neg, I do get 48v across the solenoid (both posts)
> fusible link in charging socket verified ok
> tried multi-step OBC reset process, no change
> also tried the process described for bypassing the OBC but not sure if I did it right. I tried a jumper from the batt neg to the small yellow on the sol with the small yellow wire remove. Also tried it with the small yellow wire attached. No go for either test. Sol did engage for both.
> there was also a cut off fused blue wire near the batt pos. I've traced that all out and determined that it's voltage in to a voltage reducer under the cart. on the input side that reducer has a yellow going to body ground, a white from the load side of the key switch, and that blue wire which I assume goes to batt 48V. There's a red and black on the output. Black goes to body ground, and as best I can tell the red feeds the headlights. I still need to hook this up and test to see if the reducer is producing voltage. Are the lights on these carts typically 12V? Is the reducer likely 48 to 12? Whatever the feedback on this, I've concluded that it's not a factor in my other issue described above. Please weigh in if that's a bad assumption.

Guidance on next step in my testing would be greatly appreciated.

[PMD3454]

I've done a ton of reading through all of the great info here and found an awesome post from Fairtax4me on 7/28 that details which pins on the controller need voltage for the cart to move. Hopefully that applies to the Carryall too. I will do those checks and share results.

[Fairtax4me]

I think I read this thread and got side-tracked and forgot to come back to it.
I'm not sure if the carryall models had gone to the IQ drive system by that year, as most of the other models had already done.
Do you have a small rocker switch for FnR or is it a big lever switch?
If its a rocker switch and you have a tow/run switch under the seat then it's an IQ cart.
If it has a big lever FnR switch then its a series cart.

[kgsc]

OP said he grounded the yellow wire to the solenoid so I’m guessing series

[Fairtax4me]

Originally Posted by kgsc

OP said he grounded the yellow wire to the solenoid so I’m guessing series

I would think that as well, but you know what they say about assuming
Never know on a non-working cart who's been in there poking around, replacing wires, cutting out other stuff.

[PMD3454]

Sorry for the delayed feedback. Grandkids here yesterday and everything comes to stop when that happens. It has a rocker switch and a tow/run. It also appears to be have regen from what I have read here. Should I continue with the plan to test the controller wires as detailed in your 7/28 post that I found? Thanks.

[PMD3454]

No IQ decal on the side. Just recently saw a 2009 (mine is a 2011) that had an IQ decal. No evidence of a decal being removed.

[PMD3454]

Cart does have a small IQ decal on side. The cart is now behaving different than describer in first post. There is now no reverse buzzer at all, and the solenoid does not engage in forward or reverse when the pedal is pushed down. By using the 7/28 post from Fairtax4me in a different thread to another member, along with the electric diagram I started working through the same series of checks. The controller connector on this cart is 24 pin. I wasn't getting any voltage on any of the pins so I jumpered the small spade on the solenoid where the yellow was attached, to the neg of the battery bank. Pressed pedal down. Solenoid engaged. 48v on both studs of solenoid and 48V to controller. Key on, tow/Run to Run, I got the following readings.
> OBC - light blue - pin 2 - 48V
> Tow/run - grey - Pin 4 - 48V
> FNR Forward - brown - pin 10 - 48V, OV on pin 11, blue for Reverse
> FNR Reverse - blue - pin 11 - 48V, 0V on forward pin
> Key switch - tan - pin 1 - 48V
> Throttle switch - green - not labeled on wiring diagram, but green wire went to pin 8 and pin 8 had 48V
> pin 17 had 48V - that was shown on the diagram as "low side of solenoid coil)
> pin 19 had 48V - that was shown as "Reverse Buzzer", but, reverse buzzer is no longer working. Applied 48 V to buzzer directly and it does work. Verified continuity from buzzer to pin 19. Verified 48V to red wire (+) side of buzzer. This doesn't seem to make sense but I double checked it. Buzzer has voltage, but doesn't work, but does work when tested.
> Diagram shows pins 3, 4, and 5 as MCOR. All read 0V.
> I removed the FNR switch and did checks with a continuity tester. From the bottom tab I could get continuity to each of the other two tabs although in reverse continuity was to the top tab, and in forward it was to the middle tab. Seemed odd. Will try to find more detail in the threads on how that switch should test out, and will provide an update.

Does this mean that the OBC is bad since I can get the solenoid to engage and get 48V readings from the controller plug pins, if I jump batt neg to the small yellow spade on the solenoid (with yellow wire removed)?

I'm studying the forum info, but any guidance on the next thing to check to figure out why the cart won't move would be greatly appreciated.

[PMD3454]

Spent another couple of hours reading in the forum and I'm getting more and more confused. I'm a newbie at trying to sort out these electrical issues. Could be in over my head. Hoping for some guidance on next steps from the experts here. With the exception of the wiring added for the voltage reducer which appears to feed the headlights only (which aren't working) all of the other wiring seems to be all tidy with what appear to be the original QC seals in place. I'm completely guessing, but it looks like the wiring hasn't been messed with.

[Fairtax4me]

What is the first 6 digits of the serial number?
Can you post a picture of your solenoid and controller?

The wire colors and pin locations you posted are not matching up with anything I have for an IQ cart. A typical IQ controller only has a 16 pin connector. There will be some other connectors on the controller, but they'll be smaller and are not responsible for anything concerning movement of the cart.
So I think we're dealing with an older cart, or something that someone has altered in the past.
I need a positive ID on the drive system before I can really help much more. Otherwise we're just chasing our tails.