I killed my controller :(

[Roy Beaty]

you are correct. I realized that whoever removed the harness must have pulled the wires off the F/R switch and put them back on incorrectly. So that makes the wiring identical; with the speed sensor wire being the only difference. And that wire was taped off in the wiring loom.
I get all the proper voltages on the controller connector.
So now i need to figure out why the solenoid just clicks on/off.

[Tom47]

Note: Before connecting the voltmeter, for safety, switch cart to tow or disconnect the battery main positive wire. Also, have the rear jacked up in case it tries to run later.

Using a digital voltmeter with alligator clip leads, connect the positive lead to the large solenoid terminal that goes to the pack main + terminal. If you don't have alligator clip voltmeter leads, use two alligator clip jumper leads. Just make sure the bare connections are taped.

Depending on various things, you may read some voltage even up to pack voltage across the terminals without pushing the pedal.

Now push the pedal to energize the solenoid and your voltage should drop to 0 [zero]. This would indicate full pack voltage is getting through the contact to the controller through the closed contact. Zero volts across the main contacts equals a solidly closed contact.

If you read any voltage across these main terminals with the solenoid energized, the solenoid main contact is defective, probably burned or corroded. If the cart is jacked up, you can try banging on the solenoid with a block of wood while the pedal is pushed to see if the voltage jumps up or down. Don't use anything metal to bang on the solenoid.

Good luck!

[Roy Beaty]

the solenoid does not stay energized for more than a tenth of a second. My fluke display is not fast enough to see if I have voltage. I need to get out my old Simpson. I don't know if the controller will turn off the solenoid that quickly if the controller does not see voltage at B+ from the solenoid.
Also, just fyi, I do not have the speed sensor connected.

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by Roy Beaty

the solenoid does not stay energized for more than a tenth of a second. My fluke display is not fast enough to see if I have voltage. I need to get out my old Simpson. I don't know if the controller will turn off the solenoid that quickly if the controller does not see voltage at B+ from the solenoid.
Also, just fyi, I do not have the speed sensor connected.

I'm sorry, I wasn't aware that the solenoid only energizes momentarily. There is something else going on. Your Simpson meter will not show a spike that fast, nor will your Fluke. I believe the controller will drop it out if it doesn't see good operating voltage so that might be the effect.

The cause might still be the solenoid contacts. Try removing the wires on the large terminals so there is no pack voltage going to them. Hook up your Fluke meter across them on a high resistance scale and a low resistance scale.

Disconnect the coil negative wire that goes to the controller and run a temporary wire to pack negative. This will enable the solenoid to energize independent of the controller as soon as you turn the key switch on and enable you to check for resistance across the contact.

I'm not sure how the speed sensor could cause this but it is a possibility I guess. Why is it disconnected?

[Roy Beaty]

Solenoid is good. Speed sensor is bad and I didn't need the regenerative braking anyway.
I believe the controller is bad even though my friend said it worked when he removed it.
So i might change to an IQ controller like Curtis 1510, or go to an Alltrax. either will require a wiring harness rewire.

[Roy Beaty]

Update on my dead controller. My original controller power board had blown traces and not repairable. I was convinced the 2nd controller logic board was bad. I took the logic board from my original controller and the power board from the 2nd controller and put the two together. Though the soldering wasn't easy, it is now working perfectly.

[simicrintz]

Good for you; well done!!

[Tom47]

You did what few here, myself included, would even attempt. Maybe we can start sending you damaged controllers for repair?!?!

[kev123]

I got the exact same problem on the same controller. I'm trying to rebuild the board but I can't find the value on the blown mp915 resistor. By any chance to you have any picture of the power board or an idea othe the mp915 resistor value.

Thanks.