Plans for a new garage

[tbolt]

I'm in the concrete business and I would advise you to use min 3000# mud if you want a smooth finish. The extra cement will allow the finishers to put down a glass finish. I did this and burned it like glass. Makes cleanup a lot easier. And LONG TERM is the best advice you have gotten. I thought I had plenty of room and in a year I outgrew it. Now I wish it were twice the size.

[Xtreme Cartz]

tbolt since you're in the concrete business could you give me a rough idea of how much a 20x25 pad 4" thick would cost just to get me thinking in the ball park as far as prices go?

[Fishing Dude]

I would recamend no less than 6" if nothing more than carts 4" would be fine but for cars 6" with wire would be more durable.

[Buffs Place]

Originally Posted by Xtreme Cartz

tbolt since you're in the concrete business could you give me a rough idea of how much a 20x25 pad 4" thick would cost just to get me thinking in the ball park as far as prices go?

It depends on thickness, finish, wire, bar or fiber, expansion joints (I prefer cut), your base, location and permit cost. Check with your local building inspector, in our area the days of putting down a slab any place you want are LONG gone.

[shawn.m]

when my dad built his ultimate man cave after retiring. he was thinking about the radiant heat floor.
the cost was a bit much. so what he did was put down 2 inch of stiff foam first. then put down the concrete. good insulation through out the work area and keeps the temp around 50 degrees with the wood stove.

I have several more projects to go before I can rebuild my garage to how I want it to be.

[K9Kev]

I've got a 30 x 30 right now = reason we bought the house ( well, my reason...wife liked the house.

Right now I'm trying to find an electrician to put power in there and I'm having a hard time finding anyone that will even come to give a quote. I have one guy at 2100.00 but, says he will need two to three weeks to do it because he only wants to work 1 to 3 hours a day?

Anyway, I'm wanting to add on another 30 feet to it. I have the yard space but having issues again with getting anyone to actually come out or give a price quote.

Weird....in an economy where everyone is saying they can't get enough work, I can't find contractors to do any....Lol

[Fishing Dude]

K9Kev that's not a bad price depending on the distance he has to run the cable. If he buries it will cost more, looked at 1-0, and 2-0 copper is pricey right now.

[K9Kev]

I need to bury the cable to meet code. It needs to run 55 feet from the house box to the shop underground. I already bought the lights ( 6 metal halide ?) so that I have enough light to work in the wee hours...Lol

Biggest hurdle right now is getting the person to hook it all up. I think I might go ahead and mount everything and run the conduit myself to cut down on the $$ for the electrician though.

[wkola]

K9Kev try the power company in your area sometimes they will put the cable in the ground and supply the cable for no charge since you buy electricty from them you just have to get someone to hook it up for you. Thats how I did mine.

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by K9Kev

I need to bury the cable to meet code. It needs to run 55 feet from the house box to the shop underground. I already bought the lights ( 6 metal halide ?) so that I have enough light to work in the wee hours...Lol

Biggest hurdle right now is getting the person to hook it all up. I think I might go ahead and mount everything and run the conduit myself to cut down on the $$ for the electrician though.

This is the way to go if you have the means. Check with the local Building & Safety dept. Any homeowner can pull a permit saying they are going to do the work themselves. Check the local codes for cable size/ conduit size / panel requirements / depth buried / grounds etc and you are on your way to saving $$$$. Maybe your lazy contractor will come out and makeup the ends for a couple a hundred cash?