Extreme Team Battery Troubleshooting

[Pat911]

Your original charger was double insulated and didn’t require an earth wire, your new charger isn’t. As already said, you cannot just cut off the earth cable from a device that has been designed to have it connected for safety. It will be a shock hazard. Either change to an appropriate plug or just leave the original plug connected and lift the seat whenever you need to charge.

[Volt_Ampere]

If you go online, you can find replacement ports designed for a 3 wire standard AC extension cord to be plugged into them. I personally prefer my charger to be external for a couple of reasons: Many chargers are not well designed for the vibration they receive running around inside a cart. I also own two carts and I charge them both using the same external charger. I don't see the reason to carry an inert piece of electronics around. I can see the other side too but it's not for me.

[MYCART8A4RE]

I really appreciate this information, it is invaluable! I will not attempt to do anything hazardous, this is why I come here to ask before doing anything. I'm familiar with the ports designed for an extension cord, I have seen those posted in the past. I guess I got kind of spoiled by the set up I had that came with my lithium kit. The onboard charger only required me to carry a cord that plugged into my factory charge port and then to a standard outlet as I'm know your aware of. In the mean time, just as suggested, I will lift the seat to charge so I can plug the charger in properly. The only reason I want to keep the charger onboard is because the battery posts on my lithium battery are really close and using the charger post clamps risks me touching them together at some point, if not me, my wife, my son or anyone attempting to charge the cart. I'd rather connect them to the posts with an O- ring connector and leave it be, which means it will reside onboard. I wasnt aware the onboard charger could get damaged from vibration from driving around. This is really making me rethink my charging set up. Thanks again and have a great weekend!

[Pat911]

If you’re charger is off board there’s no need to connect the charger to the battery posts every time you charge. You can connect the battery terminals to the original DC charging port and have the matching DC plug on the output of your charger. Then use the factory port as designed.

[MYCART8A4RE]

Originally Posted by Pat911

If you’re charger is off board there’s no need to connect the charger to the battery posts every time you charge. You can connect the battery terminals to the original DC charging port and have the matching DC plug on the output of your charger. Then use the factory port as designed.

Guess this shows how "connected" I am to my current situation. Brainwashed, or spoiled, on the onboard set up. It would only requires me to purchase a few more parts to use your suggestion. I keep thinking "I was working fine for over a year, it was so easy, why change?". I guess I'll have to really decide how many additional parts I need to either keep it onboard, or offboard, and which is the best set up. I really do appreciate your time!

[MYCART8A4RE]

Originally Posted by Ice-X

I have rebuilt a couple of their packs. The first thing I would do is replace the BMS. Their choice of BMS was the Achilles heel and very problematic. You will likely need to do this anyway at some point.

Ice-X

Good to know, what BMS do you suggest as a replacement when the BMS decides to fail? Curious what problems I should expect? I've been pretty fortunate so far in the couple years of ownership.

[MYCART8A4RE]

Originally Posted by Ice-X

I have seen charging issues as well as the pack just randomly shutting down where you have to plug in the charger to get it going again. VERY inconvenient if you don't happen to be next to an electrical outlet. The only way to make a cheap lithium pack is cheap parts. :)

Our go to is the JKBMS B2A24S20P. It has 200A continuous and 350A 30 second peak. Plenty of amps for any occasion. Have not found a setup yet it cant handle.

Also remember, just because an amp "rating" might be higher, that isn't going to make it perform any better. As long as the cells, BMS, and controller can meet the demand, that's what counts.

Great info, I really appreciate your insight!

[Pat911]

Originally Posted by Ice-X

Our go to is the JKBMS B2A24S20P. It has 200A continuous and 350A 30 second peak. Plenty of amps for any occasion. Have not found a setup yet it cant handle.

I’m in the middle of testing the B2A24S24P, which is basically the same BMS but can handle 7S- 24S applications. I’m very impressed and JK is now my new go to BMS. It used to be JBD, which are still good.

I’ve also tested and used Daly BMS’s in the past and will go one step further than what Ice-X wrote, they’re not just an Achilles heal, they are junk. Very limited balance current, limited configuration options, poor firmware etc.

[MYCART8A4RE]

Originally Posted by Pat911

I’m in the middle of testing the B2A24S24P, which is basically the same BMS but can handle 7S- 24S applications. I’m very impressed and JK is now my new go to BMS. It used to be JBD, which are still good.

I’ve also tested and used Daly BMS’s in the past and will go one step further than what Ice-X wrote, they’re not just an Achilles heal, they are junk. Very limited balance current, limited configuration options, poor firmware etc.

When you say testing the B2A24S24P, do you mean testing with the Extreme Team lithium pack or another lithium set up? Also, since the current bms in my Extreme Team pack is junk would you suggest upgrading it sooner then later? Or do you think it could harm the pack in the long run? While I hate seeing this negativity about the Extreme Team chargers and now the BMS, I must say I'm glad you guys are here to help those of us who just don't know better. Seriously appreciate this!

[Pat911]

I'm in Australia so I have no practical experience with the ET batteries as they were never sold here. I'm testing it for my own purposes but it looks like Ice-X has used them specifically to replace ET BMS's.

Due to the work involved and the level of skill required, if your BMS is working I wouldn't suggest you replace it, but bear in mind that there have been ET BMS failures that have taken out the entire pack and irreversibly damaged the cells.

If it were me, I would replace it but only because I'm experienced in these things and the risk of doing further damage is little to none.