91 ParCar only runs in reverse

[Steve Patrick]

I just acquired a non-running 1991 gas ParCar. I found the dead module and coil in the dashboard and the oil tank had been removed. I purchased an aftermarket module and with very little modification adapted it to the original module plate. I now have great spark and with a small shot of starting fluid, it fires right up and will run on the crappy mixed fuel in the gas tank on it's own. But only in reverse. I drove it backwards about 10 feet as a test. But the engine will not fire to go forward. I have the same spark, a shot of ether but no start.
I'm not familiar with these two stroke engines and the odd (for me) systems that make run/move. I could use some suggestions.

[Lochlin]

Is the engine at least turning over in forward? Meaning, is the starter spinning when trying to go forward or is there no action at all? Those carts fire exactly the same way in F or R with the only difference being the direction the starter spins. Just about all 2 cycles run this way. If the starter isn't spinning at all then your key switch is probably bad. Also, make sure that you starter belt isn't slipping. A lot of times the starter is spinning belt the belt is loose thus making is seem like the starter isn't spinning.


A lot of people, me included, disengage the auto-oilers and run pre-mixed gas. Those auto-oilers weren't very reliable.

[Steve Patrick]

Thank you for the response Lochlin. The starter does spin with no effort. In fact I am such a rookie, when the starter would spin, I thought the engine was running........then I found this site. So what I have done, is pull the plug and bring the piston up to top dead center (just a hair short of TDC). I took the rotor and with a black magic marker drew lines across the top of it to reference where my magnets were located in relationship to the module. Next I rotated the module plate to center the screws in the center of the slots per your recommendation I found in your conversion thread. I actually had to rotate the plate quite a bit and now the closest magnet is just slightly in line with the module. Loosening the screws and tweaking the rotor to the module is my next step. I feel like my timing was way out of whack. Do you think I am on the right track or am I still missing something? It got too dark and cold for me to continue to try and start it last night but hope to hit the key later this afternoon.

[Steve Patrick]

Problem solved. When I got home from work I went out and hit the key and nothing had improved. So I pulled the plug and rechecked the TDC and rotor to coil relationship. Hit the key and now even reverse was not starting.
The best we could get was rotating the module plate counter clockwise to the limit of the adjustment slot. I could get ONE pop with key in FWD position and a very weak running reverse.
So my son suggested we remove the module plate and clock the plate/ module from about the two oclock position (which I think is factory mounting?) to about the 8 oclock position. And BOOM. it fired right up, both directions and two minutes later we were driving down the street.
NOW I can check out what needs to be done to make a nice little cart out of this ole girl! Oh she's a dog on even a small incline but I will start looking at more threads about that and today adjust the carb and do a compression check. And as a side note, today I should close a deal on a 2000 Yamaha G16A gasser with a bad diff. More fun!

And thanks Lochlin! Your HEI conversion thread was my inspiration to keep trying!

[Lochlin]

Phew. I was pondering your issue and just couldn't come up with anything. I was going to suggest switching the key switch F / R feeds to see if your cart would run in F and not R after doing so which mean a potential switch problem.

Glad it's going.

[Steve Patrick]

It was a brain teaser that's for sure! We elongated the the half moon slots on the original module plate. It let me zero in on the timing a little more and I adjusted the carb slightly and it runs better.

Compression test netted just over 90psi and I am ok with that. I used a Pertronics module I found on ebay for $60.00 and it was an easy swap from the original module. I was going to do the points plate and points conversion but I would have had to buy all of the componants so by the time I priced those parts I was within about $8.00 to $10.00 to getting the Petronics module and was able to save some time fabbing it into my cart.

It starts in F/R perfectly, does not smoke and runs smoothly. It has a whooping top speed of 15MPH but is happy at 13MPH.

[Lochlin]

Can you post the model number of the Pertronix module you used? I have often wondered if one could be adapted for use on these carts.

[Steve Patrick]

I used the Pertonics 025-003. Available off ebay for $60/$65.

Jegs and Summit carry them also but I think a little higher cost.

Another bonus I picked up from your thread is that these conversions seem to eliminate having to worry about critical coil selection. The guy I got my cart from already knew the module was dead. He left the parts and pieces in the dash storage compartment.

There was already an ACCEL coil mounted so once I modified my factory module plate to accept the Pertonics I wired to the coil and gave it a try and so far so good.

I finished removing the oil injection and have been enjoying rides around the block with my four year old granddaughter. I have the mph app on my phone and she asks if we can try and break our "speed record". She whoops and hollars and yells AWESOME the entire trip.

[73eldo]

So with that module you just used the original magnet dodad on the cam? I can't find a photo of what the one in the kit looks like.

[Steve Patrick]

Yes, I did. I call that the rotor but in "cart" language it may have a different name.
But just to be clear we are talking about the round white plastic "donut" that slides over the cam shaft and has two small magnets opposing each other 180 degrees apart. I just want to make sure I'm clear so no issues arise if you choose to try it.