3 Wheel EZGO 36v Electric Cart

[3wheelingfool]

Okay I get it now, the light bulb came on once you got out your crayons and drew me a picture.

Next time get out your crayons sooner. I can be a little slow, but I do end up getting there sooner or later.

I did see the batteries on ebay for around $20 shipped.

[roady89]

Find a spot to put it first. Get the largest AH capacity you can afford. The AH capacity will determine how long it will run your lights. AH = Amp Hours.

You have to figure up the watts of your lights.
Amps = Watts/Volts
55 watts/12 volts is 4.5833333333333333333333333333333 amps per hour. So if you get a 12AH battery it will only run your lights for less than 4 hours MAX....probly closer to 3. LED lights work great for this kind of setup because they don't draw hardly any power.

[Wayne R J Smith]

If the replacement solinoid was a low amp rating or the posts turned when installing; The solinoid may stick closed and cause the motor to run when there is no throttle applied. A few tapps, with a rubber hammer, on the solinoid may temporarily disengage the motor.

[scottyb]

First thought I had was mixing 2 new batteries and 4 old batteries is not a good combo so hook the lights to the 2 new batteries and see if you can't make older ones out of them in a year or so? You may as well plan on wanting to take this heavy old beast to 48v if you are gonna get up and down that hill with any regularity....

[3wheelingfool]

Help!!!! Here we go again. After replacing nearly all eletrical components my cart was running fine. This past weekend it just stopped working. We checked all connections and found a loose battery connection. We fixed it , but still will not go. 2 weeks ago the microswitch below the solenoid went bad and had to be replaced.

Suspect the electric motor. We tried to do a motor test, but am not sure if we did it correctly. We disconnected all of the terminals on the motor. We jumpered two of them and appled 12v of power to the larger posts. Nothing happened. some of my post are marked F instead of S. The motor test I found was showed S.

If anyone has a good set of instructions for a motor test please let me know. If anyone has a used or rebuilt motor conatct me as well. I live in Indiana.

[3wheelingfool]

DSCN1833.jpg

[Wayne R J Smith]

I had a similar problem with my Cushman. The 36 volt solinoid stuck in the closed position. You must first check to be sure the throttle micro switch is an "open circuit" when the throttle is off. If so, check for voltage on large post opposite side of the one marked "Batt". There should be no voltage. If you do the solinoid may be stuck closed and needs to be replaced. This test should be performed with the rear wheels on jack stands to avoid burning up the resistors.

[3wheelingfool]

We tested the motor and it is bad. I am looking or a good used one or a cheap rebuild.

[Angleo]

would you be willing to post more pictures after you hooked it all back up and got it running? I'm in the same boat as you from square 1. Only having 1 micro switch on the fnr and would be awesome to have pictures to help me with the wiring diagram. Also if anyone can help with the micro switches on the FNR how do you wire them up together? Do you just jump common to common? If anyone would be willing to help you can also contact me at 620-218-4251 This is a Kansas number. Thanks

[cgtech]

This thread has had no activity since7/2009, also, Member "3wheelingfool" has not posted since 2/2012. You might have better luck starting your own thread/question with more details. But to answer one question, the microswitches are both powered by one common wire with a jumper to the other switch "com" terminal.