Solidstate conversion on 97 resistor cart

[jakesnake27]

Subscribed, nice work so far!

[97ccds-custom]

I spent some time yesterday pulling out all the old wiring, wiring up new 10 gauge wires for the charging receptacle, connecting the diode and resistor to the solenoid and then dropping in the batteries to measure for 2 gauge cables I was missing.

In total I spent about $130 on all new 2g cables using batterycablesusa.com by using the golf cart battery cables option for all the M8 to M8 cables and then custom 2g ones for the M8 to M6. I also learned that the posts on the MZJ-400A Heavy Duty Solenoid are slightly larger than standard battery posts of 5/16".

Here is the breakdown:

CABLE#	LENGTH	ENDS       COLOR   FROM                    TO	         NOTE
1	24"	M8 to M8   red     Fuse on Batt 1 Main +   Solenoid +	 *
2	9"	M8 to M8   black   Controller B+           Solenoid -	 *
3	36"	M8 to M8   black   Controller B+           FNR Bus Bar	
4	45"	M8 to M6   black   Motor A1	           FNR Side	 **
5	45"	M8 to M6   black   Motor S1	           FNR S1	 ***
6	19"	M8 to M8   black   Motor A2	           Controller M-	
7	36"	M8 to M8   black   Batt 6 Main -	   Controller B-	
8	45"	M8 to M6   black   Motor S2	           FNR S2	 ***
9	16"	M8 to M8   black   Batt 1 -	           Batt 2 +	
10	16"	M8 to M8   black   Batt 2 -	           Batt 3 +	
11	9"	M8 to M8   black   Batt 3 -	           Batt 4 +	
12	16"	M8 to M8   black   Batt 4 -	           Batt 5 +	
13	15"	M8 to M8   black   Batt 5 -	           Batt 6 +

* M8 is too small at 5/16" as solenoid post is 3/8" (M10), will need to drill to make bigger
** using M6 for FNR side
*** FNR S1/S2 M6 is slightly larger at 6mm as FNR appears to need M4 (4mm), may use washers

[97ccds-custom]

Quick point of clarification, when I said "Solenoid +" or "Solenoid -" I meant the large posts on the positive or negative sides of the contactor. I'm pretty sure the small posts are the actual positive and negative.

Looking over the diagram I think I have everything I need to keep going, but I'm confused on whether my setup would allow for the reverse buzzer to be reconnected. My FNR switch only has one microswitch that is a 2 terminal. I think that means that the top connects to the small post + on the solenoid and the side left connects to the foot pedal blue wire. I think if I want the reverse buzzer to work I need to replace that with a 3 terminal microsswitch that has an Normally Open / Normally Closed operation so that the Reverse buzzer gets triggered?

[ACCLR8N]

You need another switch that is only engaged when in reverse position. The switch that is on there now is engaged in both forward and reverse. It's purpose is to shut things down while you are moving the lever.

My memory is that the blue wire goes from the pedal, to the switch, to a terminal on the Alltrax. Don't have diagram in front of me now.

[97ccds-custom]

Yes, you are correct, the diagram shows a second microswitch (MS2) on the FNR. I only have MS1 which is a 2 terminal. When I pulled the old wires out I noticed that the reverse buzzer had a ring terminal connected to the wire and it was connected to S2 on the FNR. I'm not sure if that's an acceptable hack or will cause problems.

The blue wire from the e-pedal goes to MS1 top connection (common?) then the side connection goes to the solenoid battery positive small post on the side with diode that has the band on it. I think that 2-terminal only has a normally open connection and the normally closed means no power in neutral but when the switch is activated by moving to Forward it sends power to the pedal while the FNR sends power to S1.

The drawing shows an optional wire going from J1 Blue from the Alltrax to a second microswitch that then goes to the positive of the reverse buzzer. I can probably live without a buzzer as long as I can control the reverse speed from the Alltrax. But I'm curious as to what the second microswitch MS2 looks like since I don't have it. Looking again, I don't think that a 3 terminal will work because that would mean that the buzzer would run when on Neutral or Reverse unless I put it in Forward which I definitely don't want. I did see that 99 and newer club cars have a different microswitch that has a blue, red and black wire coming out and I think some FNR assemblies use longer screws and mount the microswitches one on top of another. So I think if I wanted to get the buzzer to work I need a microswitch with the wires coming out and get longer screws because I still need to keep the MS1? Or is it safe to just use the ring terminal to S2 on the FNR connected to the buzzer which I think is rated for 48v?

[Sergio]

The issue is not the lack of another micro-switch but the fact that you do not have an additional "lobe" on the FNR that only depresses the second-micro switch when the FNR is flipped to Reverse.

Connecting the negative side of the buzzer to the FNR worked on the resistor cart because when the FNR was in Reverse, that placed that swivel post on a low resistance path to pack negative (S1->S2->B-).

There is no direct connection from FNR to B- on a Controller cart so no way to wire a reverse buzzer.

No way to do the reduced Reverse speed either with the single micro-switch on the FNR.

You either need a new FNR that supports the additional micro-switches or figure out a way to adapt a switch, mechanical or magnetic reed switch, that only activates when the FNR is placed in Reverse.

[97ccds-custom]

Thank you so much. This makes total sense and it sounds like I will just pull the reverse buzzer out and toss it in my toolbox. If I end up replacing the FNR in the future I'll revisit with one that supports the additional lobe for the microswitches or I'll just go to an SW202 button style.

You mentioned there is no way to reduce speed in reverse but when I look at the Alltrax SR 48500 manual the software appears to have a Max Reverse Motor Speed slider setting with the screenshots showing 50%. I see that the FNR S1 and S2 connects directly to the Series Motor S1 and S2, but since the Controller connects to A2 on M-, doesn't controlling the Armature affect the Speed? Or are you saying that because I don't have a reduced reverse option connected to J1 Blue on the controller, this software setting won't matter on the Alltrax and I can't reduce speed in reverse using the software?

If that is the case I might add a hidden "kiddie" reverse toggle switch with no buzzer on J1 Blue as long as leaving it set on all the time doesn't cause a problem assuming the FNR is what tells the controller to go into reverse. I have an FN1 speed controller potentiometer to adjust speed but if that only works going in forward and the only option is full speed in reverse, the kiddie switch (assuming it works) might be a good safety option.

[Sergio]

Instead of replacing the FNR I would definitely recommend an SW202 Reversing Contactor.

My full comment was:

No way to do the reduced Reverse speed either with the single micro-switch on the FNR

Perhaps I should have said no way to "activate" the Alltrax Reverse Speed option.

You are correct, putting +48v on the Blue Reverse terminal on the Alltrax activates that "Reverse Speed" slider so it controls the maximum speed, regardless if the cart is moving forward or backwards as that is controlled independently by physically moving the cables in the FNR.

You could always try to use one of those "reed switches" like the ones used for a window/door house alarm.

Maybe You can mount a magnet on the swivel body of the FNR so it gets close to the reed switch when the FNR is in the reverse position to complete the connection to both the Alltrax Reverse terminal and the Reverse buzzer to +48v.

[scottyb]

We offer 2 and 3 micro switch F&Rs for Club Car. Or we can modify the F&R that came with this kit. Contact me again via email.

[97ccds-custom]

Thanks Scotty! I see now that your website has the CC82F which is what I have and you appear to have a CC92F which has a metal plate to activate the second and third microswitches. https://www.cartsunlimited.net/f---r--switches.html I'll get through the rest of the upgrade and figure out what I want to do about reverse.