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Old 11-15-2018, 04:02 PM   #1401
rib33024
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Default Delta Q Charger Failure and Resolution

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/newre...eply&p=1575449



https://hackaday.io/project/18376-re...926-the-repair


Quote:
Originally Posted by bluwtr49 View Post
My Delta Q charger has been acting odd since I bought the car a year ago. The first thing I noticed was that it would start flashing the yellow alert suggesting the internal temperature was high. No big deal I figured it was just doing it's thing when the charging current was running at max for some time. It was still charging but at a reduced rate and would go through all the charging steps and finish correctly. A couple of months ago it began flashing the yellow even at the second step when the current was well below max.
Last month it decided to not charge hardly at all...like 1.5 to 2 amp even though the batteries were in the normal after golf discharge levels and didn't seem to go to a high enough voltage to allow some gassing. At this point, I was very concerned and went online to look at repair facilities and found very little. Flight Sytems seems to be the only choice, and the repair charge is about 80% of the new cost. However, I did stumble across a website where a chap that had the same issue was able to affect a DIY repair. It seems this is a known issue with bad solder joints on a current shunt. The temporary fix was to beat the top of the charger with a rubber mallet until all the lights came on correctly. Selecting the proper mallet, I lovingly rapped the bejeebers out of it, and it worked. While not a fix it strongly suggested my issue was the same as his.
Here is the link to the project:

https://hackaday.io/project/18376-re...926-the-repair

Yesterday I pulled the charger. Here are some Columbia specific points:
• If you have to do this project, the first thing is to open the front and rear clamshells and thank Columbia for there foresight if providing this feature.
• If you have hydraulic brakes, you will find the handbrake won't let the front part open very far, so you have to remove the nut (used for adjusting the handbrake) and pull the brake cable from it's retaining bracket. This was the most difficult part of the project as it's a captive nut with minimal room to swing a wrench. I'm seriously considering using a standard nut with a lock nut when putting it back together.
• Aside from the handbrake issue the rest of the removal is pretty straightforward even though accessing the lower charging mounting bolts is awkward and required using a vice grip to hold the bolt head.

Repairing the charger:

• Just follow the directions in the link above. Do not do what I did and remove all the screws from the back cover and try to pry it off. Super bad idea and I had a hell of a time getting it back together.
• Once I recovered from the above aw shucks the rest of the repair went quite well. You need a good soldering iron, and I used 60/40 solder with "no clean" flux. It's a tight fit getting at both ends of the shunt and cleaning away some of the goop they use to protect components.
• Once that I finished the soldering, it was just a matter of looking it over, checking that my ham-fisted reassembly had not obviously caused more damage, and buttoning it back up.

The Results:

• I temporarily reinstalled the charge with just the top two bolts, hooked up the input and output, and plugged it in.
• It worked great. Much better than it ever has since I bought the cart.
• I took several hours to replace the 60 AHs that were discharged, but it did it without any flashing amber and went through all the steps without any issue.

If I can do this job anone can.
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Old 11-15-2018, 10:56 PM   #1402
NoleFan4Ever
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Default Re: Rear gear oil

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ml#post1560285



Ha! One of my biggest peeves over the years - Lol!

Rear End Lube Change:
-22oz's of 85w/90 synthetic rear end grease. Mobil 1 or any good quality type will work fine.
-Jack it up, pull the fill plug which is up the side of the housing. Then pull the drain plug and drain. (check oil for any foreign material)
-Reinstall the drain plug, stick your manual $8 lube pump tube (from Advance Auto Parts) in the fill hole (do not attempt to use the vent hole), lower the cart back level and pump it until it reaches the threads of the fill hole. (22 ounces + or - will get you there)

If you cannot get 85w/90, 80w/90 will work, but the viscosity is different. Engine oils, compared to gear oils, usually have lower viscosity when cold. They contain more detergent additives and require higher temperatures to burn. They are designed to protect engines from damage caused by solids and acids formed in combustion. Gear oils usually have more additives to prevent wear at extreme pressures and are often available in formulations for various compatibilities. Basically, it comes down to the base oil and additive pack. 30w engine oil will work, but it is "engine" oil and when CC designed their Graziano specs, it was a cart that was only going to run ~14 mph and around a golf course (and honestly, at those speeds and loading, you could run Wesson Oil or Castor Oil and be fine). I would venture to say there is a very small percentage of us on this site that still have carts running on golf course at ~14 mph. We have them lifted, or loaded, or pulling, or speeding, or hauling, or deer chasing, or.....
And with BIGGER motors, controllers, tires, gears, accessories, # of passengers, etc. etc. will relate to excessive loading on the gears/bearings and for all these reasons, put "Gear Lube" in gear cases and engine oil in Engines....

Just my highly experienced AGMA Certified Gear opinion....

PS- I am attaching viscosity chart for your review.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Oil Viscosity Chart.jpg (290.3 KB, 0 views)
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Old 11-16-2018, 11:34 AM   #1403
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Default Re: Rear gear oil

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ml#post1560429



Qman97- Whatever you decide on, the most important thing is to know your usage and plan accordingly. Remember, our gears, engines, motors, transmissions, trans-axles, etc. etc. all came with a design spec. That means they were engineered for that design and spec'd out with those parameters. So, once you change those parameters with bigger motors, controllers, taller tires, lift kits, speeds, higher voltages, etc. you have now changed all the parameters for the original engineering specifications. That is when you either get it re-engineered for your current specifications, or seek advice from other knowledgeable professionals as you are here - as their are a lot of experienced professional on this forum. I can only share with you my training and knowledge that comes as an IBEW Master Mechanic and a Certified AGMA Gear Specialist with over 31 years experience in the industry....

(Yes, I have worked on or raced all of them from NHRA Super Stock L & P class race cars, to Nuclear Turbines and Turning Gears....(and have even been known to have ~maybe worked on a golf cart once or twice over the years...)
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Old 11-22-2018, 07:44 PM   #1404
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Old 11-24-2018, 05:17 PM   #1405
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Default Re: HELP! My golf cart is making feel like a DUMMY!

Sounds like you have a XCT-48400-DCS controller. If so, attached is a schematic for a XCT in a DCS cart.

Check for battery pack voltage (38.2V when fully charged) on the smaller of the three wires coming out of the backside of the charge receptacle. If it's not there, bypass the reed switch as shown in attachment-2
Attached Images
File Type: jpg XCT in DCS.jpg (246.4 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg Ezgo Reed Switch bypass.jpg (169.2 KB, 0 views)
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Old 11-25-2018, 08:44 PM   #1406
Mooncarter
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Default Re: Mystery Parts?

Photo
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Old 11-26-2018, 10:07 AM   #1407
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Default Re: O-I_C

,,,
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Old 11-26-2018, 10:07 AM   #1408
rib33024
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Default Re: O-I_C

cigarette lighter as a kill switch

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...tml#post159789

Quote:
Originally Posted by monkey-1 View Post
Its not wired like that. Its basically just a normally open switch that completes the circuit when pushed in, its no longer a lighter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rib33024 View Post
Great idea monkey-1





All you are doing is using the Lighter socket as a on/off switch, you are only breaking the connection on one wire, -- Not a POS + wire and a NEG - wire


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Old 11-26-2018, 10:07 AM   #1409
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Default Re: O-I_C

Speed calculator




http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/speed-calculator.php
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Old 11-26-2018, 10:07 AM   #1410
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Default Re: O-I_C

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