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Old 06-18-2020, 11:13 AM   #1901
JohnnieB
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Default Re: SOC Battery Voltage Question

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Originally Posted by JohnnieB View Post
The finish charge voltage for Trojan brand 12V





The finish charge voltage for Trojan brand 12V batteries 16.2V, which equates to 64.8V for a 48V pack. (See attached chart)

While the cells in a battery are being charged, the electrolyte in intimate contact with the plates and the plate surfaces in intimate contact with the electrolyte acquire a higher state of charge than the the electrolyte and lead of the plates further away from each other. It is that "surface" charge that is read in the battery's terminals, but there is very little energy stored in it, so it is useless for estimating SoC. It takes several hours for the hyper-charged electrolyte and plate surfaces to equilibrate and pass a voltage that bater reflects the cell's true SoC.

The SoC charts are based on the average of a statistically significant population of mature batteries measured from 6 up to 24 hours after charging stops. For our purposes, 12 hours rest is typically used. New batteries may be above the voltage listed on the SoC charts, while old batteries may be below the listed voltage.
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Old 06-27-2020, 09:07 PM   #1902
servpro
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Default Re: 2010 ZONE Salvage ( what a shame )

I think a lot of the problems came from the crappy US Batteries. My uncle owns an auto parts store and says US Batteries look great on paper, but suck in real life. I had one catch fire (luckily I was close by and put it out), multiple bubble overs (charging and just sitting there) and the acid ruined my garage floor. Finally swapped them out for Trojan t105s and have not had a problem since (6+ yrs).

As far as working on them, they aren't too complicated (at least the electrical part). If you need any manuals or more info, just use the WayBack Machine (like a time machine for websites, very useful for digging up information from sites that are no longer around) for justdriveelectric.com I was able to download manuals, guides, ect.
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Old 07-06-2020, 05:28 PM   #1903
freemurray
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Default Re: Shop Tricks


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Originally Posted by freemurray View Post
I need to get these bearings off so I can take this apart. there is a rattling in there I need to figure out what it is.

I bought a bearing puller set thinking it would work buts very tight fit and wont grab the bearing to pull it off
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Old 07-11-2020, 04:19 PM   #1904
JohnnieB
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Default Re: EZGO DCS 2 Forward positions

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Originally Posted by JohnnieB View Post
Check the passenger side microswitch.




Quote:
Originally Posted by crownman View Post
nothing at pin #4
Check the passenger side microswitch.

Make sure the cam presses the switch lever when F/R is in R.

Unplug the in-line plug going to the passenger side microswitch and check voltage. Should have voltage on the Orange/Red wire that mates with the Blue wire to the switch.

Attached is a schematic that better shows the F/R switch wiring and a photo of the cam and switches when in R.
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Old 07-17-2020, 11:30 AM   #1905
scottyb
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Default Re: Battery Cable Washers - Oh My

Everybody is different & to each their own.
I notice when washers are used it creates additional places for corrosion to build above and below the washer.
I use a truss head serrated stainless nut . It covers all the bases in one piece.
McMaster and Carr fans know where to go

Super-Corrosion-Resistant 316 Stainless Steel Serrated Flange Locknuts

These flange locknuts have excellent resistance to chemicals and salt water. Serrations grip the material surface instead of the threads for easy installation and mild vibration resistance. The flange distributes pressure where the nut meets the material surface, eliminating the need for a separate washer. Height includes the flange. Nuts may be mildly magnetic.


316 Stainless Steel Serrated Flange Locknut, Super-Corrosion-Resistant, 5/16"-18 Thread Size
Packs of 10
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Old Yesterday, 08:59 AM   #1906
Sergio
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Default O-I_C

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Originally Posted by Sergio View Post
This idea is related to a recent thread about the clicking sound from the Reverse Contactors when powered by the Foot Switch.




This idea is related to a recent thread about the clicking sound from the Reverse Contactors when powered by the Foot Switch.

I don't like the prevailing implementation method of having the Reverse Contactor turn ON/OFF with the pedal switch for a few reasons.

I understand the reason it is recommended:
If the Reverse Contactor is powered by the key switch and You forget the Key Switch ON, the high power reversing Contactor coil can overheat and get damaged.

Unfortunately having the Reverse Contactor turn ON/OFF with the pedal can
cause more stress and perhaps shorter life for the contacts.

The reason is that when You lift your foot off the pedal, the Controller stops the current flow from M- to B- which also stops all current going through the Solenoid so the contacts of the Solenoid open with no load.

That is not the case on the Reversing Contactor as current continues to flow for a little longer, perhaps at high levels depending on the torque conditions when the pedal was released.

This idea uses a re-settable time off delay relay that keeps power to the Reversing Contactor for 5 minutes after the pedal is UP.

So if you are driving or maneuvering and lift your foot off the pedal for less than 5 minutes to slow down or stop, the Reversing Contactor stays energized as it should.

If You stop longer than 5 minutes or turn the key OFF, the Reversing Contactor goes OFF immediately.

The 5 minutes is just my example, the device below can adjusted from 0.1 sec to 10 days delay.

To make adjustments You need to use both dials, for the 5 minutes delay example You would set range to 10 minutes and the percentage to 50%.

GAEYAELE GRT8-B1,AC/DC12V-240V Relay:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...D4HXVRT2&psc=1

Use a male quick connect on the input side connection from the delay Relay and a matting female quick connect on the delay relay output that goes to the FNR.

That would allow for a quick by-pass in case of a failure of the delay relay.



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