RXV Danaher to Curtis Conversion Documented

[BobBoyce]

I thought it might be a good idea to photo-document this conversion, so I converted an E-Z-GO 2008 RXV harness, part number 601969, from Danaher to Curtis.

This is the cart being converted, the harness in the cart, the removed harness view, and the E-Z-GO label from the harness.

[BobBoyce]

Before we start, we must remove all of the tape and wire loom covering the harness. I wrap the harness with rings of tape to hold the wires together. Then I identify the portion of the harness, near the controller connector, where the 2 sets of splices are that needing to be modified. These are where the +5V and logic ground for the throttle and brake encoders had been combined with those of the motor speed encoder and motor temperature sensor. While you are at it, examine the harness for acid and/or physical damage, and corrosion in the splices. None was found in this harness.

[BobBoyce]

You will need to follow the orange and black wires back into the harness, from the motor speed encoder connector, to where each of them is spliced to other orange and black wires in the harness.

The green/black wire from the temperature sensor stays bonded to the black
wire from the motor speed encoder.

Once you follow these wires until they end where they bond to other orange and black wires in the harness, you would cut them loose, and tape up those cut ends where the wires were connected. I cut them right at the splice.

You will need to extend these wires a little to reach the controller connector.

[BobBoyce]

The orange wire shown is be cut loose, so it can be extended and connected to the Curtis connector, pin 26.

The black wire and the green/black wire are to be cut loose, so it can be extended and connected to the Curtis connector, pin 7.

I covered the original splices with silicon sleave to seal them from weather, then wrapped with electrical tape to secure the silicon sleave in place.

I will use the wires that are no longer used to extend these 2 wires. These are the wires that wll be removed from Danaher pins 14 (grey) and 21 (purple/white) in this case, formerly used for the resistor and resistor control socket.

I show the new 35 pin connector next to the old 23 pin connector. I stripped and put heat shrink tubing over the cut wires.

[BobBoyce]

We have to depress the catch on each end of the 23 pin connector with a small screwdriver or other tool, so that we release the pins from capture to prepare for moving the wires over to the 35 pin connector. Once the cap is released, you can lift the end of the black tab on each end to remove the red plastic.

[BobBoyce]

The rest of the wires must be moved over from the 23 pin Danaher connector to the 35 pin Curtis connector, in the following order.

Note: The OEM wire colors listed below are sometimes changed

Danaher pin, Curtis pin, wire color, Function
--------------------------------------------------
pin 1, to pin 1, red, switched +48V
pin 2, to pin 5, black, CAN Bus pin 4, EM Brake negative
pin 3, to pin 15, orange, throttle/brake encoder +5V
pin 4, to pin 18, black, throttle/brake encoder ground
pin 5, to pin 31, blue/white, motor speed encoder
pin 6, to pin 32, white, motor speed encoder
pin 7, to pin 17, light green, brake encoder output
pin 8, to pin 20, black/white, CAN Bus pin 9
pin 9, to pin 16, yellow, throttle encoder output
pin 10, to pin 2, black, reverse buzzer -
pin 11, to pin 30, grey, SOC meter +0-5V out
pin 12, to pin 22, green, key switch, reverse
pin 13, to pin 10, black, tow switch
pin 14, removed, grey, resistor lead, must be removed and reused.
pin 15, to pin 35, orange/red, Can Bus pin 5
pin 16, to pin 8, pink, temp sensor output
pin 17, to pin 11, light blue, charger receptacle
pin 18, to pin 6, black, solenoid coil -
pin 19, to pin 9, light blue, throttle switch
pin 20, to pin 33, white, key switch, forward
pin 21, removed, purple/white, resistor control, must be removed and reused.
pin 22, to pin 4, purple, brake lights
pin 23, to pin 23, red/white, CAN Bus pin 3

Showing this photo again, where the first 8 wires have been moved.

[BobBoyce]

I installed those removed wires (grey, and purple/white) into the 35 pin connector, then routed and cut/spliced the wires to the orange (+5V), and black and green/black (logic ground) wires. Before attaching and soldering, I put a short piece of silicon sleave and a longer piece of heat shrink tubing over each wire wire. After I soldered, I slid the silicon sleave over the solder joint to protect the splice from corrosion, then sealed it in place with the heat shrink tubing.

[BobBoyce]

One circuit is left to establish. A white wire from the EM brake connector runs to the brake switch. The other brake switch wire is red. Attach a wire to the white wire, and run it to the Curtis connector, pin 12. This wire applies the EM brake when the brake pedal is pressed beyond a set point. The Curtis controller pin 12 monitors this wire to ensure that the motor brake test functions properly.

I used a piece of white wire to run this from the tap point all the way to the 35 pin controller connector, pin 12.

You will need a new pin and the correct 35 pin connector. So here is a link to a post on this site where I give a source.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ml#post1338373

And here is a post for adding a programming port to the 35 pin connector of your newly converted harness.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ml#post1340121

I have done this conversion many times with success.

Bob

[cgtech]

Nice Thread! Never done it that way, but with the problems with getting harnesses sometimes, I could see me needing to do it this way.

[usgicollector]

How about making this a sticky so it will be easy to find. A lot of good information in this thread.