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Old 01-12-2016, 02:22 PM   #1
Kustrud
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Default Waterproofing Drive Belt/Clutches

Anyone have any success covering the clutches/belt up so they do not slip so easily in water?
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Old 01-12-2016, 03:05 PM   #2
bokeasmowl
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Default Re: Waterproofing Drive Belt/Clutches

Watching this.
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Old 01-12-2016, 03:22 PM   #3
LVCJ
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Default Re: Waterproofing Drive Belt/Clutches

I haven't seen it done fully in a golf cart. The side-by-side community have covers and seals for them. They run higher horsepower and also use the covers to help control heat and direct cooling of the belt. You might be able to adapt one to work with a golf cart set up.....the only issue I see would be size and room availability in the engine/clutch area.

This is cool:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qc7ZNVbbIEA
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Old 01-12-2016, 04:21 PM   #4
Kustrud
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Default Re: Waterproofing Drive Belt/Clutches

Yup, I have a Polaris Sportsman - so that's what I was thinking. Even just a way to delay the water soaking them if you need to cross something quickly. 100% water-tight would be pretty tough to make happen.
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Old 01-12-2016, 06:58 PM   #5
smokindawg
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Default Re: Waterproofing Drive Belt/Clutches

I have an American made Side by Side called a Pug. It's powered by an 18hp Briggs V-twin and 4 wheel drive. But it's pretty much set up just like a golf cart as far as the rear end and all, but wasn't made with rear suspension.

It does however have an enclosure that fits over the belt and clutches. It's pretty much water tight, or as much so as possible. I've run the cart where water was over the floorboard and even over the gas pedal and not had any slippage of the belt at all. The cart just kept pulling thru.

It is doable, but again as mentioned, clearance in a golf cart would be a problem without some major mods to the frame probably.
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Old 01-12-2016, 10:57 PM   #6
Kustrud
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Default Re: Waterproofing Drive Belt/Clutches

Can you snap a pic of your setup in the pug?
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Old 01-13-2016, 05:42 AM   #7
my1423
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Default Re: Waterproofing Drive Belt/Clutches

Never done it to a cart but my friend and I did it for a 6 wheel amfo utv.
Old 60s model that was missing half its bits.

To start off we mocked it up in cardboard then cut the parts out. Boxes are your friend.

To start we made an oversize backing plate. This after construction was cut down and used the completed cover as a template. Aluminum street sign from the scrap yard. T6 plate and way cheaper then buying plate. They have different thicknesses as well. Hole sawed holes for both shafts then 8 holes for the mount bolts. These we walered out to allow for flex and placed washers on each side and car inner tube in an inner and outer layer. this gave a water proof double flexible seal.
Later we found that the outer inner tube did not hold up well and even though it was easy to work with went to a single car tire sidewall on the inside with a solid mount outside. Cut out with a good knife and a hole punch. Now adays I would use a semi mudflap.

For the cover used 2 heavy metal galvanized buckets that fit over the clutches. They need to be cylindrical. The conical ones when rolled out have the wrong shape.
Took cardboard and copied the outside of the buckets.
Then put both buckets in place around the clutch and held it in place.
Pulled the cardboard end up and taped them together. Marked them.
This gave where the metal needed to be bent till and where to cut the bottom of the bucket.
Cut the buckets pop riveted them together.
Then took some roof flashing and covered all the holes and the ends and wrapped the outside.
Pop riveted them on. Dont use flashing its too light. Use heavier gauge metal!!
Sealed it all up with silicone caulking.
Placed silicone heater hose on the lip and pop riveted it on. Just cut it down the center place over the lip and use a razor to shave the ends to a 45 angle and then rubber cemented the seal it. Riveted to keep tight.
You can get wire snaps or clasps at the hardware store. Riveted a bunch on.
Used a marker to trace the cover around the backing plate and trim off the extra.
Took the angle grinder and made scores into but not through the backing plate for the wire spring clips to grip.
Done.
Issues rattled on the flashing and broke. use heavier metal.
Ended up placing bolts through the plate to align the cover and stop its weight from bouncing loose. Like dowel pins
Smoked many a belt. Not sure if it was from heat or the fact the motor was a 4 cylinder Wisconsin.
Need to add some sort of filtered air inlet outlet to cool things down. Side by sides have fins on the drive clutch to pull in air and an inlet outlet with filters.

If i was to do this over i would use plastic buckets and a plastic welder. Get them at harbor freight. Use a heat gun to mold the bits.
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Old 01-13-2016, 07:14 AM   #8
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Default Re: Waterproofing Drive Belt/Clutches

my1423, as I was reading your post I was thinking the entire time that you would need some type of cooling. The clutches and belts do make a lot of heat.

Mine is all aluminum and as said takes up some space. It bolts up to the engine with 4 bolts and then just slides over the rear end shaft and is held in place on that with a couple tabs if I remember correctly.

My setup has two hoses coming into the housing. Both are about 2-2 1/2" flex hose. It doesn't have to be filtered but needs to be set up so water and dirt can't get directly into the housing. Mine also has a plug that can be removed for draining in case water does get into it.



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Old 01-13-2016, 07:59 AM   #9
my1423
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Default Re: Waterproofing Drive Belt/Clutches

Looks soooooo much better then our redneck bucket.
But then again what else is an argo. Giant piles o .....
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Old 01-20-2016, 09:29 PM   #10
cfherrman
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Default Re: Waterproofing Drive Belt/Clutches

My chinese gy6 150cc atv is closed belt with a fan to cool it, also has a trap route for air to make it harder to get ib
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