Please help me figure out what I have.

[brinkkl2000]

I am having trouble identifying what I have. The id plate is missing so I have no idea where to start.

Backstory on this cart I found out after I bought it. It was traded in to a local shop as a non-running cart. It was sold from there to someone who flips carts and he must have gotten it running and put the lift kit and wheels on it. Then it was seen at another local shop (maybe they are the ones who got it running I don't know,) then it was sold to someone else, the I got it. Had I known I would have passed.

Here is where I am. Obviously the controller got hot and started melting the case. It is a Curtis 1243-4320. A search on eBay shows that controller to be one used on electric pallet jacks, so I don't know if that is actually usable or not, maybe that is why it is getting so hot. What's throwing me off when matching up the controller is that mine has a 16 pin connector going in to the side of it, and I don't see anything like that.

I am planning on upgrading the solenoid to a Heavy Duty one considering it is stretched and lifted. Also will need to wire in a tow run switch as well. I really need to figure out what it is though so I can get the correct controller. The F/R is a toggle switch in the dash.

[coosa]

Take my opinion with a grain of salt, but I think you have a PDS cart that somebody put a forklift controller into for the sole purpose of selling it. I would wait until one of the more experienced posters comment, but I wouldn't want to buy a solenoid or anything else for it until I had the controller figured out. The solenoid will be an easy upgrade once it is running, but if the wiring harness doesn't fit a golf cart controller, I would need a lot of help to figure it out.

I have seen a lot of carts for sale in the last 10 years that I didn't think would last long. Someone will lift it, put on big tires and a flip seat for 4 people to ride and it looks good, and somebody will buy it. But the controller, cables, and solenoid are still just stock and the cart is doomed. When it dies, the poor guy who bought it will then tell everyone that electric carts are no good and stay away from them.

I've seen some variation of that story a number of times, but a fork lift controller is a new one. But I'm sure it can be figured out, so good luck in getting what you need to get it running again.

[kgsc]

Probably a Chinese cart built on an ezgo frame. Can probably put an Alltrax in there but will need to figure out what throttle it uses plus build a harness.

[brinkkl2000]

So, let's say I want to get it straightened out with the correct controller. How would I go about that? Where would I go about finding a schematic for building a wiring harness. Not afraid of doing that just need to know where the wires need to go.

[kgsc]

Here’s what I found for the 1243
https://cdn.curtisinstruments.com/pr..._manual_en.pdf

[brinkkl2000]

What do I need to wire it in to the cart, or verify that what is there is correct? Looking at that diagram I have to determine what type of throttle I have. Assuming I will do that by using my multimeter on pins 6 & 7 to determine if throttle is giving me resistance or voltage with the corresponding values. then I would need to make sure the f/r switch pins are connected to the corresponding pins at the controller (looks like 11 & 12.) Don't know what mode 1 & 2 and interlock do, or if they are needed. Assuming I don't need emergency reverse. Electromagnetic brake I am thinking is why the cart almost locks up when I let of the accelerator, is this needed? Would love to get rid of that. Finally the main contactor coil looks like the main power in to it? Looks like power off the B+ through a fuse, the key switch and then that pin. So In theory could I get away with F, R, the 2 throttle pins, and the main contactor pin?

A more basic question, is a 300A controller big enough for a 6 seater with 22" tires

[kgsc]

If you can find a handheld and if the controller will power up it would tell you what throttle you have. Otherwise you will just have to look at the throttle assembly and post some pictures. Guessing either 0-5k or 0-5k. Mode 1 and 2 allow you to select different sets of parameters so you could have a rabbit/turtle type setup. Don’t think you have the electric brake but your cart may have the settings for very high regen and a very responsive throttle like a forklift would have. The solenoid coil gets positive voltage from the key switch and negative from the controller so will need that wire. Your current controller is melting so no 300 is not big enough.

[brinkkl2000]

Thank you for all your help, I may be able to straighten this thing out yet. Guess I will look at other controllers, larger amperage, and wire one in.

Looking at the Alltrax SR-48400. Think 400A would be enough? Is it going to matter if the cart is pds or dcs when using one of these controllers. I am thinking it is a pds cart, but maybe that is in the controller and cant be sure since i dont know exactly what the cart is

[kgsc]

You have a sepex cart so if going with an Alltrax you will need the XCT model and make a harness.

[brinkkl2000]

Again, thank you for the help, but I am afraid I may have inadvertently led you astray. As I was looking through the Alltrax controller manuals I noticed for the Club Car it mentioned a harness for the 16 pin controllers. So, I checked eBay for Club Car controllers and sure enough many of them have 16 pin, Curtis 1510A-5251 for instance. I have yet to go back to the cart, it is off property, and look at the wiring harness to see if it has been changed, but it is looking like the drive train is a Club Car despite the markings on the cart are EZGO and it was listed that way. Despite that, if you hadn't led me in the direction you have I would have never been looking at those controllers in depth enough to make this determination. Hopefully I am on the right track now. Thanks again for the help.

One final, I hope, question. Is a 400A controller big enough or should I be looking at 500A?