3 Cyl Yanmar in a G16

[sho305]

You can make a 1" shaft and use a taper adapter, then swap to a 1" clutch in the future. They are around $50 to buy the adapter its like a collet just larger than 1" on the small side and around 1" long taper.

[rmack898]

I finally got to spend some time in the shop and make a little progress.
After figuring out the metric taper, I made the clutch adapter and got the clutch mounted to the flywheel.

I ordered some 1/2" heim joints to build my 3-link and Watts link for the rear suspension. I am hoping to get a full day in the shop tomorrow and get the suspension done so that I can take the swing arm out and start working on the motor mounts now that I have the clutch mounted. I was waiting to get the clutch mounted before I started on the motor mount so that I can get the belt alignment right. With any luck, I should have a productive day tomorrow but now I have probably jinxed myself.

[rmack898]

No doubt that I jinxed myself on this build. Life has thrown every road block that it can in my way of progress. I had to put a junk car together for my daughter to replace the new car that her husband totaled on black ice two weeks ago (no one got hurt) and then I got the flu and it put me down hard for almost a week. I have a day or two this week to do something before my day job has me in Miami for a week.

With any luck, I will get my 3 link suspension laid out this week and be able to make some brackets before I have to leave for a week. It just seems as if the cart gods are working against me on getting this build completed.
Bear with me and maybe I will get it done.

[rmack898]

Well my trip for next week got cancelled and I'm still home sick but felt good enough to sneak out to the shop and do a few things today.

I cut out 8 blanks from some 3/16" plate 2-1/2" wide. I cut 4 of them 7" long and 4 more 4" long. I tack welded the blanks together and layed out the holes and shape of the brackets. I drilled all the holes and cut the stack of brackets to shape on the band saw and the ground off the tack welds to that I had 4 pairs of identical brackets.

The long brackets will get welded to the frame cross member at the same pivot point as the trailing arm, and the short brackets will get welded to the underside of the axle tubes just under the brake sable brackets. I should get them all welded in tomorrow and then square up the real axle and make up the tubes that will become the links and weld on the hiem joints.

I was originally going to call this cart "Old Smokey" but now that I thought about it, I'm going to call it the "Yanmarha"

[93yellowclubcar]

"Yanmarha" huh?

I like it!!!

[rmack898]

I got my upper shock mount finished and installed.
I'm still feeling sick but I was on a roll so I managed to get all of the 3 link brackets tacked in and got the link bars made.

Now that that's done I can take the swing arm out and start making the motor mounts. I know the engine fits in the engine bay without any obstructions so it will be much simpler to fab up the engine mounts with the swing arm in the middle of the floor on jack stands. I hope to be able to find the time to get that done in the next few days.

[rmack898]

Now that the rear suspension is done and all the brackets are tacked in place, I removed the swing arm to get the motor mounted.

I started with some 3X 1/4" flat bar that I cut slots in so that I can have some belt tension adjustment utilizing the factory engine mount bolt holes. Then I figured out the engine height and made some plates that bolt to the engine block that will get welded to the flat bar. I got ready to tack it all together and decided that I'm not really happy with the way the stock clutch mounts to the flywheel. If I could get the clutch 1" closer to the flywheel than I can shift the engine 1" to the right and that would make the mounts cleaner and also give me just a little bit more clearance on the right side of the engine bay which is already going to be tight.

So now I'm thinking that I need to get a different clutch. If I go with a Comet 720 or the steel roller clutch from CPP that doesn't have the pulley for the starter/generator, that will get me almost and inch closer to the flywheel and make my life easier. So now I'm on hold until I work out the clutch issue.

I'm going to pull the front half of the body off and figure out where I'm going to mount the radiator. I'm thinking that it will fit in the depressed area of the front body panel and I will just run hose back to the engine and use an electric fan.

I'm open to anyone that might have some advice on the clutch issue.

[roady89]

Can you make the flywheel thinner? I don't know if you'll gain an whole inch by just loosing the starter pulley...maybe half inch or so. Might loose the starter pulley and combine that with a thinner flywheel to get an inch or even more possibly....of coarse its hard to tell an inch from pictures.

[rmack898]

I really can't make the flywheel much thinner but by making the adapter plate a little thinner and losing the starter/Gen pulley and the gap between the pulley and the flywheel, I will gain almost an inch and a half.

Another thing I'm thinking is that using a clutch that is a straight shaft with a key, might give me a little more flexibility in mounting it. I might be able to take a little off here or take a little there without worrying about cutting into a taper. Without having parts in hand it's only speculation on my part but in looking at pictures of other clutch options, I might be on the right track.

If someone could take a straight edge across the back side of a straight shaft mount Comet clutch and tell me if the mounting hub is flush with the back side of the sheave, that will tell me if I can gain the inch that I want.

[nobuckbuild]

JUST WENT OUT And checked the new 780 comet i have and it is flush