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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV. |
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11-06-2011, 10:16 AM | #1 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Southeast Ohio -- "The Toenails of the Foothills of Appalachia"
Posts: 232
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84 Marathon resistor cart project
I finally got some pictures of my '83 Marathon resistor cart. I also talked to my neighbor with the shop - he's going to let me work on it there this winter. Turns out he doesn't heat the shop, but builds a room out of tarps in it, then heats the room with a propane heater.
He's got a 2000-something electric club car, so he's familiar with carts. Looks like I hit the jackpot for expertise and facilities. Here's my (other) neighbor's TXT cart next to mine. Here's another view - she's pretty beat up, but she RUNS (poorly)!!! Lots of knicks and bruises in the past 28 years, but fixable. Under the seat - batteries are all catty-wompus - barely held up by the tray. This is the BEST part of the battery tray. The rest of the tray has pretty much dissolved - there are a couple of 2x8s holding up the other batteries. Rusty, but working, stock series motor. Beeper, solenoid, wiper board. Here's a close up of the hole in the corner of the battery compartment (near the driver's left knee). The battery tray gave way, causing the battery to lean/rub against the compartment wall, and ate a hole in it. Will have to fix that up with something when we get it all apart. That's all for now. I'm hoping to get it over to the shop sometime next week and start the tear down. I hope to get lots of photos as things progress. I'm going to do this rebuild as cheaply as I can. What's the old saying? "You can have it fast, cheap, or good. Pick any two." - I'm going for cheap and good, and will probably take all winter to do it. RLW |
11-16-2011, 03:10 PM | #2 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Southeast Ohio -- "The Toenails of the Foothills of Appalachia"
Posts: 232
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Re: 84 Marathon resistor cart project
Well,
I'm an idiot. When I started this thread, I hadn't had my customary 4th cup of coffee yet. It's an 84 resistor cart, not an 83. Is there any way for a moderator to change the "83" into an "84" in the thread title? Otherwise, I'll abandon this one and start a new one, if that's the right procedure. Duh! RLW |
11-16-2011, 05:12 PM | #3 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: So. Cal. / Glendora
Posts: 43
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Re: 83 Marathon resistor cart project
Hit "EDIT" then go to " GO ADVANCED" you can change your title there and repost.
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11-16-2011, 08:06 PM | #4 | |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Southeast Ohio -- "The Toenails of the Foothills of Appalachia"
Posts: 232
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Re: 83 Marathon resistor cart project
Quote:
I'll just start a new thread if a moderator doesn't pop by. By the way, "Advanced" lets me change the title on THIS post, but not on the whole thread. RLW |
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11-16-2011, 08:52 PM | #5 |
Happy Carting
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 73,358
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Re: 83 Marathon resistor cart project
Believe me there is no noticeable difference between a 83 and 84 Marathon... Besides a mod will come along sooner or later and help.... So what are the upgrade plans?
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11-16-2011, 10:20 PM | #6 | |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Southeast Ohio -- "The Toenails of the Foothills of Appalachia"
Posts: 232
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Re: 83 Marathon resistor cart project
Quote:
First step is to get over to the shop and set up a tarp canopy that I can heat in the winter. Next is to get the cart there and yank the batteries. I'll bring the batteries back here, put 'em in the basement, and see if I can rejuvenate them. I've been checking them after each use/recharge cycle - looks like I've got 2 pretty good Trojans (6.35-6.41V after charge and 6 hours rest). Another two batteries are running around 6.25V, and the last two are junk - 6.05 and 6.13V after charge and rest. I'll use the last two for my mad scientist experiments. I have noticed a slight improvement in all the batteries after charging each time. If there was a way to post a spreadsheet, I'd pop it here so folks like JohnnyB could look at it and give me some advice. Once I have the cart at the shop, I'll begin to strip it down and assess the situation. I already know I'm gonna need to either fab a new battery tray, or buy one. I want to knock the rust off everything, probably need to weld some structural support to the frame where the battery trays were. My buddy will help me do some body work - bang out the dents in the body. I'll need to fix the hole in the battery compartment. I've been reading other folks' rebuild threads - I'm leaning towards using Ospho to strip the rust, then prime and paint the frame, probably with rattle cans - I don't care what it looks like so long as the hidden parts are rust resistant. I'm also considering painting the hidden stuff with bed liner - some folks have used that. I'll jump off that bridge when I get to it. Another possibility, body-wise, is to just replace the body. There's a guy about 80 miles away who has a plastic EZGO body on Craigslist for $75. Don't know if it'll fit, will defer to the hive mind here to let me know: If I can make that fit, it'll probably shave some weight off the cart - I'm amazed at the gauge of the sheet metal in the body. Reminds me of my Dad's old '53 Packard! The plastic stuff HAS to be lighter. Next step is to decide on an electronic controller. There's an EZGO dealer here in town, I might see if they'll let me go through their junk pile looking for a serial motor controller. If I remember correctly, the later Marathon models replaced the resistor with an electronic chopper. Of course, I'll need to fab some linkage at the wiper assembly to push/pull/rotate either one of the inductive throttles (ITV?) or a 0-5k/5-0kOhm pot, depending on the controller. The other option is to go with one of the AXE controllers for a serial cart. At someone's urging, I took a look under the floor mat. There's no access panel or box where the stock inductive throttle or potentiometer would go. I saw a thread here somewhere where they whipped up some linkage and a frame for the throttle where the wiper assembly lives. There's a whole other pile of things I'll need to do - disassemble the brakes and rear end, clean that up and replace what needs replacin'. The brakes seem OK, but I'll know more when I get 'em apart. There's about 30 degrees of play in the steering. Imagine a clock face - I can put my hand at the 12 o'clock position and move the steering wheel to 11 o'clock without moving the front tires - 360/12 = 30. Could be the pinion gear in the rack, could be the tie rod ends. Won't know 'til I get it all apart. I'll need to replace the tires - they look to be original - the two on the front actually have some tread, but the back tires are just about racing slicks. They're 18", I read here somewhere that you can go up to 22" without a lift kit (PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong). I bought a top (without the support posts) off Craigslist. It looks to be from a TXT. Hope I didn't overpay for it ($40). I was thinking of using EMT conduit to build a frame to hold it up. This may end up uglier than it started out. I'm going to try to stay pretty low budget - the local EZGO dealer has a 90's TXT for $1600. I'll look pretty stupid if I spend $2000 on this '84! I've got my work cut out for me, that's for sure. It may end up being the most expensive $290 bargain I ever had! I plan to post my progress here, and look forward to suggestions and wisdom from you guys... RLW |
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11-17-2011, 07:41 PM | #7 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 9
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Re: 84 Marathon resistor cart project
I am putting a 4" lift on my 89 EZGO . Is there anything needing to be done to the steering ? I am doing this rebuild on the cheap end and have really learned alot from all of you.
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11-17-2011, 08:38 PM | #8 |
Happy Carting
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 73,358
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Re: 84 Marathon resistor cart project
John89, Welcome to BGW!
This is some serious thread hijacking you are trying to pull off here in rlw's thread. This is considered bad manners in the internet forum world which I understand you are just learning about. That's cool we all posted our 1st post on bgw So go find the Ezgo electric section and hit 'new thread' instead of reply. We will see you there in your own thread. |
11-17-2011, 09:30 PM | #9 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Southeast Ohio -- "The Toenails of the Foothills of Appalachia"
Posts: 232
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Re: 84 Marathon resistor cart project
@Johnnie,
Thanks for the tip about PDFs. Here's my spreadsheet. As you can see, the Crown batteries are the worst - 6.08V and 6.13V are the best I could get out of 'em after charging. Looks like one Trojan and the Powervolt are the best - 6.41V and 6.40V after a full charge. The other two Trojans top off at 6.33V and 6.24V. As to getting NEW batteries, turns out there's a guy about 3 miles west of me who reconditions and sells used cart batteries for about $50 each. I'm thinking of heading out there with a V-O-M and seeing what he has to offer. They can't be any worse than the Crowns are. I beat my head against a bad APC UPS and a bad Linksys router at a customer's all day today. That got me to thinkin' about hooking up the Crowns in series to an old APC UPS I have. It seems to me that the charger in that device does some conditioning to keep the gel cells up. I wonder if it would do a good job on cart batteries. There's my mad scientist experiment! Just a thought... RLW |
11-18-2011, 09:23 AM | #10 | |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: 84 Marathon resistor cart project
Quote:
Your mad scientist experiment is roughly the same as the one I suggested, put them in the gassing phase and leave them there for an extended period of time. Using an old UPS might work, but the low power units APC builds have Gel-Cells. You have to get above 3KW before they use wet cells, and even then they use Sealed wet cells, which has nearly the same charge profile as Gel-Cells, so based on a 12V battery, the "Float" voltage is going to be about 2.0V less that the "Equalize" voltage needed. If the APC UPS sensed the pair of 6V wet cells as being discharged, it would try to charge them up to about 14.4V (2.4V per cell) and then float them at about 13.8V (2.3V per cell). To "Equalize" them, we've got to get them into the 2.6V to 2.8V per cell range and let them cook until there is no longer any increases in the Specific Gravity of the electrolyte between measurements taken an hour apart while on charge. Here are some links to some battery info you might find interesting. http://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/TRJ...dSpecGuide.pdf http://www.trojanbattery.com/Battery...ngStarted.html (Read all the "Related Links" in the menu of the right side of page) http://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/TRJ...dSpecGuide.pdf BTW - You might find some halfway decent used batteries at the place you mentioned, not all trade-ins are bad. |
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1984, marathon, project, resistor, series |
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