lifted club cars - lifted ezgo
Home FAQDonate Who's Online
Go Back   Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum > Golf Cart Repair and Troubleshooting > Gas golf carts
Gas golf carts Harley Davidson, Melex, Pargo, Taylor-Dunn and other Misc. Carts.



Post New Thread  Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-22-2025, 09:42 AM   #1
driveitlikeyoustoleit
Not Yet Wild
Cushman
 
Join Date: Nov 2023
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 6
Default 2010 Workhorse-Curtis Switch Panel Wiring

Hello Buggie World,

I’ve ready plenty of threads on here and other sites but still can’t wrap my head around how to wire this up using an ignition source as recommended. Like most, I don’t want to wire straight to the battery to avoid leaving accessories on and draining the battery. Plus, I just think wiring within the ignition source is a cleaner install. I can do a lot of things, but I’m weak at electrical theory.

I purchased a Curtis branded switch panel and the first recommended wiring set-up from the instructions says to, “… locate an ignition source rated for 25 amps or more and run the #10 red wire from the source to the #1 position on the back of the switch panel. CAUTION: If the power source is not fused for 25 amps install an in line fuse (not included) at the source to protect the switch panel.”

Can someone dumb this down for me? Where would I run the #10 wire from to get the desired result?

I’ve found wiring diagrams for workhorses that are similar to mine, but not exact and it just confuses me more. Considering how “simple” these machines are, I can easily chase wires from one end to the other and somewhat disregard wiring diagrams, however, I’m still clueless as to what a 25 amp ignition source is.

Thanks to all!
driveitlikeyoustoleit is offline   Reply With Quote
Alt Today
BGW

Golf car forum Sponsored Links

__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum
   
Old 01-22-2025, 10:58 AM   #2
CharleyL
Gone Wild
 
CharleyL's Avatar
Cushman
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Central North Carolina
Posts: 587
Default Re: 2010 Workhorse-Curtis Switch Panel Wiring

Welcome to BGW.

I'm a retired Automation Engineer (EE), but have no familiarity with your
"2010 Workhorse-Curtis Switch Panel Wiring panel", nor to the cart that you wish to add this too as you haven't told us about this cart yet.

First, how about completing your registration to this site, providing us with some basic knowledge of you and your cart plus location (city, town, state) but not actual street address. Your name or what you go by would make your posts more personal too. If you are close, one of us might be able to come and look at your problem.

Can you post links to information about this panel? (look down below your post and click on "Manage Attachments" and you can post photos of cart and panel from your computer). It would help if you could post the electrical diagram of your cart too.

I know quite a bit about 1980's to 90's Cushman Trucksters (see my avatar on left) because I bought and restored this one, including a complete OMC engine rebuild, but I know very little about other carts. As a retired engineer, my expertise can be of significant help to others if the electrical diagrams can be provided for me to see.

Charley
CharleyL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2025, 12:15 PM   #3
kgsc
Gone Wild
 
kgsc's Avatar
Mixed Breed
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Aiken, SC
Posts: 14,489
Default Re: 2010 Workhorse-Curtis Switch Panel Wiring

If it is a regular 2010 workhorse with the Robbins motor the key switch doesn’t get power until the pedal is pushed. If you need a constant 12v at the dash you will need to run a wire from the dash to the battery with a fuse.
Attached Images
File Type: jpeg IMG_0149.jpeg (228.2 KB, 0 views)
kgsc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2025, 01:53 PM   #4
driveitlikeyoustoleit
Not Yet Wild
Cushman
 
Join Date: Nov 2023
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 6
Default Re: 2010 Workhorse-Curtis Switch Panel Wiring

Quote:
Originally Posted by kgsc View Post
If it is a regular 2010 workhorse with the Robbins motor the key switch doesn’t get power until the pedal is pushed. If you need a constant 12v at the dash you will need to run a wire from the dash to the battery with a fuse.
Thank you for your reply and picture. I came to the same conclusion that the key simply closes the circuit and that the pushing of the pedal completes the circuit and ignites the system. Am I correct in saying that your recommendation is to do what I'm trying to avoid, which would be running a hot fused wire straight to the battery from the back of the fuse box? Not that it's a bad solution, but quite possibly my only one if I rule out wiring directly to an ignition source using #10 wire.
driveitlikeyoustoleit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2025, 02:21 PM   #5
driveitlikeyoustoleit
Not Yet Wild
Cushman
 
Join Date: Nov 2023
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 6
Default Re: 2010 Workhorse-Curtis Switch Panel Wiring

Quote:
Originally Posted by CharleyL View Post
Welcome to BGW.

I'm a retired Automation Engineer (EE), but have no familiarity with your
"2010 Workhorse-Curtis Switch Panel Wiring panel", nor to the cart that you wish to add this too as you haven't told us about this cart yet.

First, how about completing your registration to this site, providing us with some basic knowledge of you and your cart plus location (city, town, state) but not actual street address. Your name or what you go by would make your posts more personal too. If you are close, one of us might be able to come and look at your problem.

Can you post links to information about this panel? (look down below your post and click on "Manage Attachments" and you can post photos of cart and panel from your computer). It would help if you could post the electrical diagram of your cart too.

I know quite a bit about 1980's to 90's Cushman Trucksters (see my avatar on left) because I bought and restored this one, including a complete OMC engine rebuild, but I know very little about other carts. As a retired engineer, my expertise can be of significant help to others if the electrical diagrams can be provided for me to see.

Charley
Hi Charley,

Thank you for your reply. Forgive any brevity, sometimes people can get long-winded on these sites... something I was trying to find a balance on.

The machine I'm working on is a 2010 Cushman Hauler... don't know why I labeled the thread as "Workhorse"... certainly my mistake.

Here's the link the instructions for the switch panel/fusebox: https://curtisindustries.net/wp-cont...SF1-Rev.-C.pdf

Wiring diagrams have been attached. They're not 100% true to my machine though... they're pretty close.

I like tinkering around with the toys I get... restoring and/or upgrading to as close as one would expect to get from the factory. I purchased the switch panel, work lights, and wiper off Ebay. The switch panel was "new" and as an added bonus, I received an interior dome light (probably as a "gift" for the panel condition not being totally new, but close enough). I'm putting all of this on this 1200 Hauler that has a golf range ball cage enclosure (though it didn't come with the doors... see above about how I like to tinkering with things, I'll find them one day!)
Attached Images
File Type: jpeg 134.jpeg (44.7 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpeg 135.jpeg (51.1 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpeg 142.jpeg (54.6 KB, 0 views)
driveitlikeyoustoleit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2025, 03:28 PM   #6
CharleyL
Gone Wild
 
CharleyL's Avatar
Cushman
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Central North Carolina
Posts: 587
Default Re: 2010 Workhorse-Curtis Switch Panel Wiring

That's a positive ground system, and the cart controls depend on a 7 amp fuse to protect them. So this, unfortunately, is going to require you to buy an in-line fuse holder and a 25 amp fuse that fits it, and connect the 10 gauge wire from the new panel to one end of the fuse holder and the other end of this fuse holder to the - minus terminal of the battery, or to the next connection in that existing wire where it runs where the minus terminal of the battery goes.

Then, all of the accessories that you add need to be connected to a switch in this new panel and to the frame or a wire that is connected to the frame (which is battery plus + . Be sure to follow these +- labels on the wiper motor or other accessories or they won't work correctly. Connect the + label to a plus labeled point, and the - minus labeled wire to a point labeled minus -. Lights are not polarized (unless LED) so it doesn't matter, but many other accessories are, and must be connected to the proper polarities for them to work correctly. You could let the Magic Smoke out of something if you connect it incorrectly. It will no longer work, if the Magic Smoke gets out.

If you really want the power to this panel to turn on and off with the key switch, a relay will need to be added to your new panel wiring. Maybe it would be better if you just followed these instructions, for now.

Please go to "Quick Links" in the middle blue bar above (on the right) and scroll down to "Edit Your ___" to add your personal details.

Charley
CharleyL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2025, 04:16 PM   #7
kgsc
Gone Wild
 
kgsc's Avatar
Mixed Breed
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Aiken, SC
Posts: 14,489
Default Re: 2010 Workhorse-Curtis Switch Panel Wiring

The first picture is a misprint by ezgo. + and - connections are backwards on the battery. Power starts at the battery then goes to the pedal switch. Once it closes it goes to the key switch. Once it’s closed the solenoid should close. Again if you want to have a constant power to the dash you will need to run a wire to the battery.
kgsc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2025, 08:00 AM   #8
CharleyL
Gone Wild
 
CharleyL's Avatar
Cushman
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Central North Carolina
Posts: 587
Default Re: 2010 Workhorse-Curtis Switch Panel Wiring

@Kgsc,

Thanks, but @driveitlikeyoustoleit still needs a direct connection to the battery using a fuse holder and 25 amp fuse in order to be able to add accessories with up to 25 amp loading. I hope he notices this.

Charley
CharleyL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2025, 08:34 AM   #9
driveitlikeyoustoleit
Not Yet Wild
Cushman
 
Join Date: Nov 2023
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 6
Default Re: 2010 Workhorse-Curtis Switch Panel Wiring

Quote:
Originally Posted by CharleyL View Post
So this, unfortunately, is going to require you to buy an in-line fuse holder and a 25 amp fuse that fits it, and connect the 10 gauge wire from the new panel to one end of the fuse holder and the other end of this fuse holder to the - minus terminal of the battery, or to the next connection in that existing wire where it runs where the minus terminal of the battery goes.
Charley
Just curious, why would the in-line fuse go on the negative side and not the positive side, especially when the instructions call for it to be on the red wire?

Quote:
Originally Posted by CharleyL View Post
If you really want the power to this panel to turn on and off with the key switch, a relay will need to be added to your new panel wiring. Maybe it would be better if you just followed these instructions, for now.
Charley
You're probably right in that I need to disregard my desire to have this wired into the ignition system.


Quote:
Originally Posted by kgsc View Post
The first picture is a misprint by ezgo. + and - connections are backwards on the battery. Power starts at the battery then goes to the pedal switch. Once it closes it goes to the key switch. Once it’s closed the solenoid should close. Again if you want to have a constant power to the dash you will need to run a wire to the battery.
After rethinking this a little bit, even if I was somehow able to wire this into an ignition source, would the accessories turn on and off with the pushing/releasing of the gas pedal since the circuit is opening/closing with each push/release?

All in all, I think my question is answered: I can't have this wired into the ignition system to prevent accessories from being left on after the key is turned off. Granted it would be hard to keep a wiper running or work lights on without realizing it, but life happens. Plus, the other intent of this was to have a "clean" install. Running things off the battery just seems like the shortcut way to do things sometimes, but am now learning that's not always the case (sometimes the application just doesn't allow for it to be installed any other way).

Oddly enough, I found while I was poking around that the headlights for this cart are wired straight to the battery with an inline fuse, despite the fact that there's a fuse box that allows for the lights to be wired straight to that.

I love electricity when it's working and can't stand it when I'm trying to work on it.
driveitlikeyoustoleit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2025, 09:28 AM   #10
kgsc
Gone Wild
 
kgsc's Avatar
Mixed Breed
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Aiken, SC
Posts: 14,489
Default Re: 2010 Workhorse-Curtis Switch Panel Wiring

Quote:
Originally Posted by kgsc View Post
The first picture is a misprint by ezgo. + and - connections are backwards on the battery. Power starts at the battery then goes to the pedal switch. Once it closes it goes to the key switch. Once it’s closed the solenoid should close. Again if you want to have a constant power to the dash you will need to run a wire to the battery.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CharleyL View Post
@Kgsc,

Thanks, but @driveitlikeyoustoleit still needs a direct connection to the battery using a fuse holder and 25 amp fuse in order to be able to add accessories with up to 25 amp loading. I hope he notices this.

Charley
Charley please go read my last sentence in my post above.

Drive, you can have a switched circuit through the key but it requires some rewiring and a relay to handle the accessories. Just reverse the path of the switches.

Or option 2 is to get a 3 position key switch and put all the accessories on position 3. Pos 0 cart is off, pos 2 cart runs, pos 3 cart runs and power to accessories.
kgsc is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Go Back   Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum > Golf Cart Repair and Troubleshooting > Gas golf carts


Thread Tools
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Forum
ISO Body panel for EZGO Workhorse , st , mpt , bad boy buggy. Golf Carts and Parts
WTB: Workhorse (mpt1200) side panel Golf Carts and Parts
Workhorse dump switch wiring diagram Gas EZGO
2010 TXT 48 volt F/R switch wiring colors Electric EZGO
Workhorse switch wiring screwed up wont come on now Electric EZGO


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:21 PM.


Club Car Electric | EZGO Electric | Lifted Golf Carts | Gas EZGO | Used Golf Carts and Parts

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
This Website and forum is the property of Buggiesgonewild.com. No material may be taken or duplicated in part or full without prior written consent of the owners of buggiesgonewild.com. © 2006-2017 Buggiesgonewild.com. All rights reserved.