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Old 08-02-2024, 07:59 PM   #21
desertjoe
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Default Re: 1977 Cushman Truckster

Well, Charlie,,,you have certainly led an interesting life,,, I'm 75 and still have both my knees, had 4 heart surgeries, 5 stents and a defib and also survived colon cancer 20 years ago. My wife of 53 years passed 4 years ago from kidney failure due to Diabetes. I had been up in NW Arkansas staying with a Lady Friend and came home to take care of business and found this Truckster behind a shed and bought it when my GF said she just had to have one ,,,so here I am

I rigged up a fuel tank from an old roto tiller and let the Truckster run for about 1 1/2 hours and no oil leaks that I can see,,,What kind concerns me is it has some crankcase pressure and blowing a bit of oil fumes from the oil filler when you remove the cap,,,,?? I'm hoping I can add some of them new fangled additives to see if the oil rings may be stuck on the pistons,.,,??
Have you had any experience with any of them,,??
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Old 08-02-2024, 09:08 PM   #22
CharleyL
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Default Re: 1977 Cushman Truckster

Many, many, years ago, my second car in fact, was a 1949 Oldsmobile with one of the early overhead valve V-8 engines in it. That thing required a good additive or it's valve lifters would begin hanging up. A friend introduced me to Rislone and added a quart of it for me. I paid him and thanked him. Then got in the car, started it up and drove out to the highway from his parking lot. By the time several cars had gone by and there was a break in traffic, all 8 cylinders were working again. It was barely running when I had driven in there. Don't add much, the OMC crankcase only holds about 1 1/2 qts of oil, 2 if the filter is new. Rislone comes in quarts and is enough for a 5 quart crankcase. You will likely get years of use out of a quart, if you can keep dirt out of the open quart can. Another good additive is Marvel Mystery Oil. It comes in a quart paint thinner type can with a screw-on lid. Again, I would only add maybe 1/8 of a quart to an OMC engine. Both are very good penetrating oils, but I have never used either in my Cushman. Many other engines yes, but not in the Cushman.

Charley
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Old 08-03-2024, 07:50 AM   #23
desertjoe
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Default Re: 1977 Cushman Truckster

Good Morning Charlie,,I'm gonna run a compression test on the OMC first thing to see what I need to do if anything. Do you have an idee What numbers should be?
To tell the truth,,,I think the oil rings have been passing oil for a while as the engine has a good bit of oil soaked dirt build up due to building pressure in crankcase and forcing oil out of engine,,,,? Engine sounds great while running and revs up nicely. I sure hope I don't need to pull it ,,we'll see after the compression test. Take care,,
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Old 08-03-2024, 10:59 AM   #24
desertjoe
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Default Re: 1977 Cushman Truckster

Hey Charlie,,ran the compression and got 86# on passenger side cylinder and 84# on driver side cylinder,,, What do you think,,??
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Old 08-03-2024, 01:24 PM   #25
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Default Re: 1977 Cushman Truckster

That's about what I got too. Haven't checked it in years though. OMC engines are not racing engines. Considering their design and age, I think they are fine at mid 80's compression.

Charley, not Charlie
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Old 08-03-2024, 02:44 PM   #26
desertjoe
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Default Re: 1977 Cushman Truckster

OK, Charley,,and I apologize for that "OOPS SLIPS" LOL,,!! I agree with you on the readings of the Truckster's compression test. Now I'm thinking that maybe the "O" rings or cup seals on the valve guides on the suction valves,,, may be bad or,,,missing,,???? Do these engines have a history of valve guides issues??
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Old 08-04-2024, 09:07 AM   #27
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Default Re: 1977 Cushman Truckster

Not that I've experienced. The cylinder spark plug hole threads usually fail first, but overheating of the engines usually leads to valve breakage. The fix to prevent overheating is to remove the thermal controls (no longer available) that open and close the dampers at the front of the engine. They are in the duct work below the cylinders. Once disconnected and removed, the damper doors need to be locked open. I drilled and tapped a hole in the front casting right next to the edge of the damper door when open. Then threaded a large head bolt into the hole so the edge of the bolt head would trap the damper and hold it open. I think I used a 10-32 bolt. In Arizona, as here, it's highly unlikely that engine heat is needed. More likely it never gets cold enough to justify it, again like here in NC. Lawn mowers don't have thermal dampers and run just fine. The real sacrifice is that the finned exhaust from the engine won't provide much cab heat, but again, I don't think you need it.

When replacing broken valves I went with stainless and bought them from a local automotive engine rebuilder locally. He matched the old valve that I gave him, so no part numbers to deal with. He said they would take high heat far better than the OMC steel valves. I replaced both valves in each head with them, as valve 1 is an intake valve on one side of the engine, but exhaust on the other side of the engine. Replacing both valves in each cylinder kept this either side compatibility. Dealing with the valve springs and keepers is very difficult when the heads don't come off the cylinders, but My son and I proved that it can be done. Valve seat grinding is a chore too. Have fun.
Every bad cylinder that I have come across either had a broken exhaust valve or the spark plug threads were destroyed. Installing thread inserts only delays cylinder replacement. New cylinders come with the valves already installed, but again, they are OMC steel valves. A new cylinder with valves cost about $150 when I priced them about 5 years ago. A whole short block engine was about $1,500 at that time. I bought a couple of old non-working OMC engines from Craig's List for spare parts, but only gained one useable cylinder. They are the weak link in these engines and likely to need service before anything else. The OMC valves break either the stem or a pie slice piece out of the valve head. In either case you will be in for a significant tear down. I haven't seen any valve guide issues, but it likely happens sometimes. Again, a new cylinder comes assembled with the valves and springs already installed.

Charley
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Old 08-04-2024, 09:41 PM   #28
desertjoe
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Default Re: 1977 Cushman Truckster

Hey Charley,,well, I went ahead and pulled the engine in my Truckster this morning as there must be an issue either with the oil rings stuck to piston or the intake valve seals passing combustion pressure into crankcase,,,and has been forcing oil past the gaskets for long time as evidenced by the excessive amount of oil/dirt buildup!! I was told to check the crankcase breather on backside of engine by the timer for pluging but it was very clean so that leaves the two that are most likely to be either or. After getting engine out, I am glad I did so as you just cannot imagine how much oil/dirt had accumulated around BOTH cylinder cooling fins,,this engine HAD to of been running HOT because of all these blockages. Your comments about the possiblity of losing valves or cylinders because of running HOT made up my mind,,,SO, Thank you for sharing your experience of many years.
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Old 08-05-2024, 10:37 AM   #29
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Default Re: 1977 Cushman Truckster

It doesn't surprise me, and I'm glad that you did. It's the only way to get to the bottom of the problems. Both website sources sell the gaskets you will need. If you replace the valves, I strongly suggest that you go with stainless. Find an engine rebuilder and get him to match up a set to sell to you. They will likely have the rings you need too, but again, no cross reference to Cushman. They will need to know the cylinder and piston sizes, so take one of each with you. You will need a ring compressor that is a band type with a special pair of adjustable locking pliers to squeeze the band together. Mine came from Amazon as a set. A valve spring compressor will be needed, but it needs to be one with very long reach capability so it can reach the head of the valve while compressing the spring. These are very hard to find. One capable of servicing motorcycle valves in similar designed cylinders is what you will need.

Definitely remove and trash those thermal units and lock your dampers in open position.
Cleaning every bit of the finned areas of the cylinders and crankcase will be needed too.

I have most of two OMC 22 hp engines apart, clean, and in zip-lock bags, if you find that you need something that can't be bought new. No cylinders though (what I needed most).

You will be surprised how expensive this rebuild is going to cost. A few dollars here, a few more there, but it adds up quickly. I won't be rebuilding again. If there is a "next time", I'll be finding a significantly bigger overhead valve engine for it, maybe even water cooled, and getting help from my metal working and welding #2 son to adapt the new motor to the truckster. A 1000 cc Honda motorcycle engine and maybe even the transmission from a wreck is being considered.


Charley (my mother spelled it this way)
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Old 08-05-2024, 08:03 PM   #30
desertjoe
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Default Re: 1977 Cushman Truckster

Well,,Charley,,I was NOT gonna question the spelling of your name as I KNOW how mothers are with names when one comes bouncing out,,,I'm just glad my mom didn't name me "SUE",,,,LOL,,
I did get the driver side cylinder off the block and am puzzled at where thos compresion test numbers came from. The top and the second compression rings were just 1/2" from each other on the piston. The combustion gases did not have to travel very far to by pass,,,!!! JeEEESE,,if I had left one like that,,my Dad would have followed me with a good sized switch all the way to the barn and back,,,!The oil rings were stuck in the piston lands.
With your explanation of valve repairs,, IF NEEDED,SO.,, I am reluctant as the closest machine shop is 185 miles from my front door,,,,, I put spark plug in and upended the cylinder and filled it with gasoline to see if any leaks and gas did not leak past the valve faces.
You mentioned both shops having gaskest etc that I migh need,,do you have links or phone numbers? What about replacment cylinders??
Thanks for all your help, Charley
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