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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV.



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Old 04-14-2021, 07:00 AM   #1
Bucker
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Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Georgia
Posts: 17
Default Old BBB, New project

Good morning!

I've been lurking here for a while, relying on forum results from time to time when helping friends diagnose issues with their carts.

Just this past weekend I bought a 2010 Bad Boy Buggy (dual motor, dual controllers and solenoids) from a friend after he gave up on it. He had it for a few months and couldn't get it running so here I am.

First observations: This thing is big. 25" tires, roof rack, racks all over it honestly. Center console full of batteries, winch works well, on and on and on.

Problems?
-Lots of surface rust in the floorboards and underneath. I'll wire wheel that and spray it to hopefully stop the rusting.
-My friend pulled off the front motor and replaced it with a new one because the person he bought it from claimed it wasn't working. Although I can confirm the front and rear motors function now, there are some other issues.
-After pulling it off of the charger, I can drive maybe 300 feet before it slows to a crawl and then stops all forward movement. Solenoids remain open (closed?) and the motors do get limited power (they turn slowly if I put it on jack stands). Has to be a power issue, right?
I disconnected the battery wiring and checked them. All 8 6v batteries have good water levels and after a charge they all test ~6.3-6.4v. Seems about right, I think. I'll pick up a battery load tester tomorrow and see how they work under load.
The controllers seem to function properly and don't throw any codes (solid green light).

-There are a TON of random wires all over. Seems like previous owner(s) had accessory ADD. Luckily this is my opportunity to get that straightened up. Wouldn't be surprised if there were leads going on in the 12v system because of this. Tailight wires are cut and just hanging back there, turn signal doesn't activate, etc.

SO what's my plan?

Figure out if the batteries are shot. If so, replace with a lithium kit. I've been eyeing a 48v 100ah evolution battery from extremeteamcarts.com. I love the 12v output right from the battery pack.

I'm interested in eventually pulling all of the stock drive train (battery, controllers, motors) and putting something more modern, reliable, and faster. Although I like the idea of 4WD, I can't think of many situations where I NEED it with this thing.
Cartsunlimited.net has an iq conversion setup has me really intrigued, but I don't even know if it is a potential option.

Either way, thanks for having me and I love the wealth of knowledge that is available on here.

Last edited by Bucker; 04-14-2021 at 07:10 AM.. Reason: Title
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Old 04-14-2021, 07:09 AM   #2
Reddawg454
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Default Re: New BBB, New Member

Welcome!
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Old 04-15-2021, 07:30 PM   #3
Bucker
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Default Re: Old BBB, New project

Okay, so I load tested the batteries one by one (disconnected and reduced from the cart). At a 50amp load, 7 tested between 5.6v and 5.8v. One tested around 5.5v. I'm guessing this means they failed? I would think that ~45v would be enough to nice the cart more than a couple hundred feet, though, shouldn't it?

I'm hesitant to buy new batterie(s) and find that my problem is dsomething else entirely.
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Old 04-17-2021, 10:21 AM   #4
Cobra,1
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Default Re: Old BBB, New project

Search Jonni B’s battery post where it shows a chart of battery voltage compared to state of charge.
48 pack voltage is a dead pack.

You can also charge batteries overnight till full. Put voltmeter on pack negative and positive terminals , note. Note voltage then drive cart. Watch voltage under actual load. Think you’ll find pack not charging or batteries need replacing.

Let us know 😊
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Old 04-17-2021, 02:48 PM   #5
Bucker
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Default Re: Old BBB, New project

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobra,1 View Post
Search Jonni B’s battery post where it shows a chart of battery voltage compared to state of charge.
48 pack voltage is a dead pack.

You can also charge batteries overnight till full. Put voltmeter on pack negative and positive terminals , note. Note voltage then drive cart. Watch voltage under actual load. Think you’ll find pack not charging or batteries need replacing.

Let us know 😊
Thanks! I'm replacing the pack no matter what at this point. Everything is torn down now and I yanked out about 60 feet of useless wiring (non-functional turn signal, brake lights, horn, and some random other disconnected wires). Just finished media blasting any rust I found and tomorrow I'll get some paint on it.

Any input on the possibility of using a lithium pack on this thing? I saw a few posts where people were worried about the draw from the dual motors but I didn't read any specific reason they were concerned.
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Old 04-22-2021, 04:28 PM   #6
Bucker
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Default Re: Old BBB, New project

Alright so I've replaced the batteries and they are running through a charge cycle now. Wired it all back up as it was and 12v accessories seem to be working. The key switch functions for the 12v stuff just fine. What isn't working is the 48v stuff. Before replacing the batteries the solenoids would click when I flipped the key (constant 48v dual solenoids that stay switched when it is powered on). The controllers also had a green light on previously that no longer is on. How can I troubleshoot a solenoid?

51.x volts from positive to negative posts on the solenoids, no change when I flipped the key or the f/r switch.

Guess I'm looking at solenoids or controllers. Just ordered solenoids as they are fairly affordable.
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Old 04-23-2021, 03:17 PM   #7
Bucker
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Default Re: Old BBB, New project

Just looked around a bit. Small poles on the solenoid show 0 voltage and does not change when I turn the key, put it in f or r, or when I push the throttle. Unplugged the key switch and the connector shows 12v, so the switch works (12v accessories are energized when it is turned in and off when it is off) and has power in/out. Would this mean something is wrong between the switch and the solenoid?

Big poles on the solenoid show battery pack voltage.
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Old 04-24-2021, 06:07 PM   #8
Bucker
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Default Re: Old BBB, New project

Okay so I rewired the switched power to the controllers and contactors. I get power at the controllers when I turn the key switch now, buy get a four flash. Code appears to be contactor related. Looks like fedex is completely nh tomorrow and I'll install a pair of new contactors. Fingers crossed...

Edit to add: well one controller is 3 flashes and the other is 4. 3 flashes sounds like a controller dead code, ugh. Let's see if I can get it to move in front wheel drive at least.
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Old 04-26-2021, 06:51 AM   #9
Bucker
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Default Re: Old BBB, New project

Solved it. I had disconnected the 48v relay when removing the turn signals (it was marked 12v and I didn't trace the wires before pulling it out). I'm really impressed with the torque this thing puts out and considering it is 11 years old and clearly was neglected for much of that life, it is pretty solid!

Now to get some properly sized pop rivets, external SB50 charging port, and working taillights and I can button it up and enjoy. My only regret is that I should have gone with Lithium... Guess I can do that in 5 years when I need a battery replacement. FLA batteries get expensive recently and I definitely over paid locally...
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Old 05-17-2021, 10:47 PM   #10
kempie9901
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Default Re: Old BBB, New project

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bucker View Post
Solved it. I had disconnected the 48v relay when removing the turn signals (it was marked 12v and I didn't trace the wires before pulling it out). I'm really impressed with the torque this thing puts out and considering it is 11 years old and clearly was neglected for much of that life, it is pretty solid!

Now to get some properly sized pop rivets, external SB50 charging port, and working taillights and I can button it up and enjoy. My only regret is that I should have gone with Lithium... Guess I can do that in 5 years when I need a battery replacement. FLA batteries get expensive recently and I definitely over paid locally...
Bucker, I've just started a project of my own. 2011 BB XTO. Bought it off someone who did a fair amount of troubleshooting. Batteries were original! 2 dead relays(one of which he replaced) and possibly a bad motor. Just purchased and installed a set of batteries today to find out something has been wired backwards because the thing drove in the opposite direction of switch position!! Waiting on a new relay to arrive to further troubleshoot. Ill be following your progress for anything I might come across as well! I am in GA as well, so I might have to come by to learn and see finished product
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