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Electric Yamaha Electric Yamaha Golf Cars; G1 through "The Drive" and U-Max Utility Vehicles



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Old 07-09-2024, 10:53 PM   #1
jcm55
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Join Date: Jul 2024
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Default 1991 Yamaha G9 build

I recently picked up a free 1991 Yamaha G9. The owner lives in a golf course community that banned privately-owned carts 20 years ago and it had been sitting unused that whole time, with hoarder crap packed in all around it.

The early G9 seems to have G2 guts in it, with v-glide and resistor coil. I already ripped all that out along with the ancient, leaking 6V wet cell batteries. Stiff bristle brush to remove all the white acid bloom from the frame and then sprayed baking soda solution everywhere to neutralize any remaining acid.

I am planning a full solid state build with 48V lithium battery setup. Alltrax SR-48400, 400A contactor, SW202 F&R. Stock motor for now, but we'll see how that goes.

For the throttle, I wanted to keep the stock go pedal. I found a throttle box that's usually in forklifts and such, Curtis ET-126. You can pick one up on Amazon for $45. It accepts 24V - 56V and uses a hall effect sensor to produce a 0-5V throttle signal for the Alltrax SR. It also has a footswitch output, using a solid state MOSFET instead of a mechanical switch.

It took me a while to work out the linkage between the go pedal rod and the ET-126. It's got a 1/4" (6mm) square shaft, and there seem to be no hardware bits with 6mm square holes. 5/16" (8mm) square shafts are relatively common though (every doorknob mounts on one), so I found a cam for a pickup topper lock and a bit of 8mm square tube that fits on the ET-126 shaft perfectly. Then drilled a hole in the cam for the go pedal rod so that it rotates the ET-126 shaft through the ~60 degrees it needs for 0 - 100% throttle.

For mounting the ET-126, I think I will put machine screws through the v-glide plate above and below the opening, going into matching holes drilled and tapped into the side of the ET-126 housing.

I started with the throttle because it needs to go where the go pedal rod is. Then I can work out where the other components should mount. I think I can put everything on the vertical plate running through the center of the cart where the v-glide and resistor coil were mounted before.

More to come.
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Old 07-11-2024, 09:00 PM   #2
Timothy L
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Default Re: 1991 Yamaha G9 build

Alltrax controller with a lithium battery sounds like a great improvement. Keep us updated!
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Old 07-19-2024, 08:52 PM   #3
jcm55
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Default Re: 1991 Yamaha G9 build

Well well well, this cart cleaned up super nice with a new set of tires and a little elbow grease polishing it up. Way beyond my expectations for a $100 purchase.
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Old 07-19-2024, 09:41 PM   #4
jcm55
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Default Re: 1991 Yamaha G9 build

Here's what I did with electrical upgrades. Really super pleased with how everything worked out. Almost everything I used came from Amazon. 20 mph top speed now with the 48V upgrade and the stock motor.

- The SW202 is bolted directly to the center vertical metal bracket that used to hold the resistor coil. Back near the motor so those three 2 GA leads are nice and short.

- The Curtis ET-126 hall effect throttle is mounted down low near the front of the same bracket and connected to the stock go pedal linkage. Under the Alltrax controller. Not visible in these photos, but you can see it in the photos in the first post in this thread.

- Above that I added a small piece of plywood (also bolted to the same bracket) to create enough real estate for mounting the 400 amp Alltrax and contactor.

- Also mounted there is a 250 amp DC breaker, which acts as a convenient battery disconnect switch as well.

- For the batteries I took a chance on four 12V 260Ah lithium batteries, $400 each on Amazon. Wired in series. The BMS on each is rated for 250 amp continuous, 500 amp peak (4-5 sec) discharge. Part of what made me go for it is that a pair of them fit perfectly on either side of the center bracket where everything else is mounted. I could even use the stock battery hold-downs on them.

- Made my own custom-length high power cables with 2 ga welding cable, a lug kit that came with pre-cut heat shrink, and a cheap Chinese lug crimper.

- Onboard charger is a NOCO Genius GENPRO 10x4 which is in front of one of the sets of batteries, also kept in place by the battery hold-down. This is a 4-bank 12V charger, with a separate set of leads for each battery to charge them individually, which should minimize any imbalance issues from having them wired in series.

- Even found a 120V inlet that fit perfectly on the bracket where the crowfoot connector was mounted for the old external 36V charger.
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