Tried to add converter...almost set my cart on fire

[jasonojordan]

Originally Posted by Tom47

The black wires are common to each other as the ground. Reversing them would not matter.

The red must go to 48 volt positive....\

The yellow must go to 12 volt positive./

Reversing these two will destroy the converter. I believe this is what happened inadvertently.

Install a switch in the red wire back to pack positive terminal. Install a fuse in the yellow wire going to accessory block positive if not porvided.

Switching off the red wire will prevent the reducer from staying powered continuously. A simple 10 amp toggle switch will work fine and will prevent sparks when connecting it. A spark will still be there but will be contained inside the switch and not readily visible.

Eventually, maybe years later, the switch may fail open and will need to be replaced.

The two black wires being common to each other is not correct.

[augiedoggy]

Originally Posted by jasonojordan

The two black wires being common to each other is not correct.

yeah im pretty sure that correct as I remember reading another thread where this mistake was made last year..

The commons are not interchangeable as one is the common for the 48v input and the other is for the 12v.

[NinjaPixie]

Well, I think I figured it out!
Asking about wire sizes got me thinking, questioning the gauge I used, and checking on the ratings of everything. It all checked out, and the only thing that would have been drawing any current would be the lights, which would be well under the amp rating, and I don't think it blew a fuse. I found the wiring diagram for the converter to double check and see if wire gauge was shown (it wasn't), and what I did matched up. Except for one thing.
I switched the input and output sides!
Stupid mistake.
So instead of sending 48v through it and getting 12v, I was sending 48v and converting it to 192v, overheating the windings and frying the converter.
Stupid, but I feel better because that's an easy fix. Going to get another cheap converter and try again. And I'm going to go ahead and put in an on/off switch.

[jasonojordan]

Originally Posted by NinjaPixie

Well, I think I figured it out!
Asking about wire sizes got me thinking, questioning the gauge I used, and checking on the ratings of everything. It all checked out, and the only thing that would have been drawing any current would be the lights, which would be well under the amp rating, and I don't think it blew a fuse. I found the wiring diagram for the converter to double check and see if wire gauge was shown (it wasn't), and what I did matched up. Except for one thing.
I switched the input and output sides!
Stupid mistake.
So instead of sending 48v through it and getting 12v, I was sending 48v and converting it to 192v, overheating the windings and frying the converter.
Stupid, but I feel better because that's an easy fix. Going to get another cheap converter and try again. And I'm going to go ahead and put in an on/off switch.

Why not just get a quality 5 wire one like this and use the key switch to turn off the signal to it?

https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Chaser-Co...5&sr=8-11&th=1

[NinjaPixie]

Originally Posted by Tom47

The black wires are common to each other as the ground. Reversing them would not matter.

The red must go to 48 volt positive....\

The yellow must go to 12 volt positive./

Reversing these two will destroy the converter. I believe this is what happened inadvertently.

Install a switch in the red wire back to pack positive terminal. Install a fuse in the yellow wire going to accessory block positive if not porvided.

Switching off the red wire will prevent the reducer from staying powered continuously. A simple 10 amp toggle switch will work fine and will prevent sparks when connecting it. A spark will still be there but will be contained inside the switch and not readily visible.

Eventually, maybe years later, the switch may fail open and will need to be replaced.

Ding ding! I accidentally switched the input/output sides.

I'm going to go ahead and put in a toggle switch this time. I was planning to put it on the positive supply to the fuse/distribution block, since it's up by the dashboard, but would it be better on the 48v input side of the converter?

(I have the converter mounted next to the batteries, and the fuse block up at the dashboard.)

[Rick2280]

I'm using the Pro Chaser 30 Amp on my cart little harder to mount up front because of its size but it works great. You must be careful with wire hook up on this unit also directions are not very good. Great reducer for 30 bucks!

[NinjaPixie]

Originally Posted by jasonojordan

Why not just get a quality 5 wire one like this and use the key switch to turn off the signal to it?

https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Chaser-Co...5&sr=8-11&th=1

That looks like a good one. Maybe I'll go with that this time.

I can't remember exactly why I went with 4-wire instead of 5-wire. But honestly, probably because I can understand how the circuits of the 4 wires work, but the 5th one throws me off. And I'd rather put the lights/accessories on a separate toggle switch and not the key.

[kgsc]

Most 5 wire are power in, power out and a trigger to turn it on. The 6 wire units have a constant 12v for radio memory.

[NinjaPixie]

Originally Posted by augiedoggy

I have the 20a version of this that has the built in fuse .. it did scare the crap out of me with a spark and it welded to the bolt I connected it too.. later I read that I should have used a resister to precharge it. I ended up swapping in a larger different model reducer so this one sits on my shelf for a future g9 build ill be doing.

Did it really smoke? I am asking because I dont see how as its heavily potted in epoxy and solid aluminum.

How do you pre-charge it?

[NinjaPixie]

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