Gas Coming From Crankcase Vent

[trig123]

Originally Posted by ewsisk1s

I changed the valve stem seals. After running the cart for 10 minute increments for a total of 40 minutes or so the driver side plug is still getting wet. Appears to be getting less wet though. I am thinking/hoping that there is just some oil in the cylinder set that still has to burn off. When I adjusted the valves after putting the seals in, the screw driver slots on the driver side stem seals were at a different angle than the passenger side. Maybe I need to go in and adjust them again. Either way it does appear to be getting better, still fouling the one plug though but like mentioned earlier, hoping this is normal for a little while

Also I swapped the plugs to see if one was bad and the driver side was still getting wet. Swapped the wires and same thing, always the drivers side getting wet after 10 minutes or so of driving

Drivers side the one with around 155 pounds of compression ? show a picture of those valves . Close up if you can get one. I don't think valve seals are going to fix your problem.

[ewsisk1s]

Is this what your wanting?

[trig123]

Originally Posted by ewsisk1s

Is this what your wanting?

Yes, that helps. Looks like the intakes valves are ok but I can't say for sure from the pictures. Those intake rockers do look different. I would have to look at my MCI engine and it really may not matter as I am not sure . I do know the oiling system is different on the MCI and Pre MCI engine.

For sure someone did change the adjusting screw to the ones used on the Pre MCI engine . That would not matter though.

I will know more tomorrow when I take a look at one I have apart in my shop. You say its oil fouling one of the spark plugs ? the one on the drivers side I am assuming it the one ?
What we search for when these engines pull the intakes into the head is more threads showing where you turn adjusting bolt. I can't tell looking at your pictures if that is the case or not ?

[Cartmaster]

Bit of a long shot here, but run the engine in the dark and look for sparks tracking around the plug leads, caps and the top of the coil.

[trig123]

Originally Posted by Cartmaster

Bit of a long shot here, but run the engine in the dark and look for sparks tracking around the plug leads, caps and the top of the coil.

Nothing is a longshot on this one CM.

[CP241]

Originally Posted by Cartmaster

Bit of a long shot here, but run the engine in the dark and look for sparks tracking around the plug leads, caps and the top of the coil.

I was gonna suggest the same.

It’s not valve stem seals. I tried to explain what they do and why that’s not what I think your issue is, but maybe I wasn’t clear enough?

I think your one fouled plug on the one side is a spark issue based on what you’ve explained before. One cylinder is dead. It’s either spark or compression. Please recheck your compression just to be sure. But my money is on spark.

On these motors the coil fires both plugs at the same time. It’s a wasted spark system. Trig or CM can correct me if I’m wrong but I don’t believe there are 2 separate coils inside the coil, I believe it’s one coil that has 2 outputs. Which would mean it’s either a wire or plug that’s bad. I’d rule out plugs because you just changed them and symptoms didn’t change. One bad wire would make the other one weak at that point.

[Cartmaster]

For clarity, unlike a conventional coil, these duals are two separate coils, one low volt controlled by the igniter, and one high volt. Exactly the same as a normal transformer. This is why when testing the coils you look for continuity and impedence on each circuit individually. Each high tension lead completes the secondary circuit through the spark plugs. There is no ground until the spark plugs contact the head. In theory, if one plug is not connected, the other should not spark either as the circuit is not closed. But what happens in reality is the second plug may throw just a weak spark from inductance when the coil is fired or something along those lines. This is why CP is suspecting a bad lead. A normal single coil has a common connection between the low and high tension side and generally either works or does not. This is what confuses a lot of people trying to diagnose a dual coil ignition system. Especially on wasted spark engines like we have here.
Just sayin!

EDIT.
To correctly test this without proper equipment, you have to have both plugs laying against ground and compare spark on both. Not one out of the head and one in. You need to see what both are doing. Both should show a fat blue spark at exactly the same time. Anything else is not good.

[ewsisk1s]

Thanks everyone, I really appreciate all of the information. I have learned a lot through this process! I checked the compression again and both cylinders are showing around 160ish still. With regards to how the coils work, are you saying that simply swapping the wires from one cylinder to the other would not help diagnose any issues due to how this system works? So swapping the wires from the wet plug to the dry one would not cause the issue to follow the wires when swapping them?

[Cartmaster]

In theory, swapping the wires could move the problem to the other plug, but stranger things can happen. If you have a bad wire, simply moving it, bending it or twisting it can have a positive or negative effect. Think of a lamp with a loose wire in the plug, wiggling it can make the lamp go on and off lol.

Basically as stated, both plugs should fire consistently with blue fat spark at the same time, so do the test with both plugs laying on the head and see what you have. don't forget, spark tests are best done in the dark. That way you can see if anything is tracking out.

[Cartmaster]

Just wanted to point out for everyone's benefit. You should not run these with only one plug grounded or one lead disconnected. If checking one cylinder, put a spare plug in the lead that is not in use and ground it. Damage can be done to coil and/or igniter, as the coil needs to see ground on both leads for correct operation.