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Old 02-17-2023, 10:07 AM   #61
jonr3
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Default Re: Extreme Team issues - post here

Quote:
Originally Posted by Volt_Ampere View Post
NO. You want to measure across EACH individual cell.
Okay, how do I do that?
Where do I put the + and - probes of my voltmeter?
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Old 02-17-2023, 11:13 AM   #62
Volt_Ampere
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Default Re: Extreme Team issues - post here

On the + and - terminals of each cell. Those are where the heavy connections are.
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Old 02-17-2023, 11:43 AM   #63
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Originally Posted by Volt_Ampere View Post
On the + and - terminals of each cell. Those are where the heavy connections are.
Here's a pic of the top of my battery - I only see one terminal/wire coming out of each cell, so where do I place the VM probes to measure each cell?
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Old 02-17-2023, 01:22 PM   #64
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That is a potted mess. Now I see why you couldn't find the terminals. They are not available. I'm afraid you are SOL.
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Old 02-17-2023, 03:02 PM   #65
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Default Re: Extreme Team issues - post here

Just my amateur look at this, but in your pic I think all of those small red wires are just wiring for\to the BMS. The actual "terminals" which provide the power are "inside" that packaging. I would guess all of the individual cells, both positive side and negative side, are "heavy cabled" inside that package. And since all of the negative cables connect to just one point, that's why you have only one negative BMS wire coming out of that pack.

Actually, when I think about it, my ZEVA is wired very similar.

Of course, the difference is I can actually "get to" each cell's terminal.

In looking at your cell voltages in the pic on your post #59, it would appear your cell voltages are "all over the place". And some are well below what would be considered a "safe" minimum.

I could only speculate on why they got to this point, but I would suspect a very faulty BMS that provided almost zero in the way of cell balance protection. I know this comment is pure speculation, but I do fear as Volt_Ampere point out that your pack is toast and unsafe to charge.
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Old 02-17-2023, 03:35 PM   #66
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Default Re: Extreme Team issues - post here

Yes, That is a mess and it looks like all your batteries are bad but you can still check each battery. The negative of each battery is connected to the positive of the previous battery so….

Cell 1 will be black neg and B1+ Pos
Cell 2 will be B1+ neg and B2+ pos
Cell 3 will be B2+ neg and B3+ pos.
Etc….

But it does look like your total pack voltage is only 11.51v. That’s why the BMS isn’t turning on. Those cells wouldn’t have discharged that low on their own. That was caused by a faulty BMS.
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Old 02-20-2023, 08:53 AM   #67
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Default Re: Extreme Team issues - post here

I put new batteries in my VM and measured each cell by placing the - probe on one cell and the + probe on the next cell - then leap-frogged onto the next cell, and the next, etc.
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Old 02-20-2023, 09:15 AM   #68
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You have just verified again that your batteries are Toast. Properly dispose of them.
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Old 02-20-2023, 04:24 PM   #69
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Unfortunately Volt_Ampare is correct. Something drained your cells, most likely the BMS. Sorry to have you purchase a new BMS for no reason, although you could repack the case with new cells and use the BMS, but that is an expensive exercise. There’s discussions on here at the moment of where to get decent performing LiFePO4 cells.
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Old 03-04-2023, 09:23 AM   #70
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Default Re: Extreme Team issues - post here

All,
I've been reading through this (very informative) thread all morning trying to diagnose an issue I experienced with my ET 72v 100ah pack yesterday. I have a club car precedent with Navitas AC kit. I had the Navitas set to 225 amps discharge limit since that was the magic number I could run without tripping the BMS (that was a whole other ordeal getting that figured out a couple years ago when I got the battery). Anyway, here's what happened yesterday and what I've tested/discovered so far:

While accelerating, I heard a loud “pop” followed by an electrical burning smell that quickly went away. Everything on the cart quit working after this. Once I lifted the seat I could hear a constant beeping coming from inside the battery pack. I checked the voltage at the battery posts and was getting 78.4 volts (the cart was around 70% charged the best I can remember). I also opened my ANT BMS app and the battery still connected to it via Bluetooth. On the home screen of the app, the only thing that looked different that usual was it said “DisMos error”. It showed the min and max cell voltage was within .05v of each other. Upon taking the battery out of the cart to start opening it up, I found the 400amp fuse I had between my battery and solenoid was blown with black soot around the center sight glass on it. I’m convinced this was the loud “pop” I heard and what I smelled. I continued to take the battery out of the cart and open up the enclosure. Once opened I found this BMS in the attached pictured and the beeping was coming from the bottom left corner along with a flashing red light. I disconnected the main two black leads that feed the eight blue wires coming into the BMS and the beeping stopped. After leaving it unhooked for about 30 minutes I connected the wires back like they were and the beeping never returned. It was again reading 78.4 volts on the main battery output lugs, but now my BMS APP wouldn’t connect to the BMS. I decided to try the battery in the cart again with a new 400a fuse. I hooked the positive from my cart solenoid up first and when I went to tried to connect the negative (B-) from my cart it arched really violently (melted the tip off the battery lug) and I snatched it off right away. However the battery is still reading 78.4 volts.

Does this sound like a bad BMS? Why would the battery be acting like it has a dead short, but still showing proper voltage?

I'm thinking my cells may be okay since I'm getting proper voltage and hoping I can fix by battery with a BMS swap. If so, what do you recommend for a replacement? Should I find an ANT BMS that will be a plug and play, or convert to something different. I would like to have a minimum of 250 amp continuous and 450 amp peak draw for a few seconds.

I am very mechanically inclined and fairly electrically inclined, so I'm up for the challenge of swapping to a different brand BMS, but may need some direction on connecting all the smaller wires to the new BMS.

Thanks in advance for all of your help on this. I currently have a $3,500 boat anchor which is very frustrating.
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