2010 TXT (PDS) New (rebuilt) controller and new motor no movement at motor

[badabing7]

I'm rebuilding a 2010 PDS TXT, once I put it together it ran fine until I got home and put it in reverse... long story short the F1 wire shorted out over the controller side solenoid post.

Needless to say, I was getting nothing (no solenoid click, no buzzer when in reverse). I changed the controller and am was (am) getting the solenoid click when I press the pedal and I get the reverse buzzer when I select REV but I got no movement still. I followed the "Detailed Troubleshooting Guide" on pg F-10 ultimately telling me to change the motor.

Tonight I got the new motor and put it in with the same results. Push the petal and it does not go. I reran the tree on F-15 and its pointing back to the controller.

Is there something outside of the controller I should consider?

Would the 250 ohm resister cause it to not go (how can I check the resister operation with a standard ohm meter?) (I have 200 and 2K ((lowest)) settings on my meter, when I set it to 2K I get .253 ohms. Does that sound right? I was thinking it should be around .135 but I may be way off base lol.

I've tried to check the ITS but with a suspect controller I dont feel too confident in any of the readings I'm seeing.

Any help is appreciated, I hope I've provided enough info.





28646-G01 is the manual I am using.

[rockfordpi]

Originally Posted by badabing7

I'm rebuilding a 2010 PDS TXT, once I put it together it ran fine until I got home and put it in reverse... long story short the F1 wire shorted out over the controller side solenoid post.

Needless to say, I was getting nothing (no solenoid click, no buzzer when in reverse). I changed the controller and am was (am) getting the solenoid click when I press the pedal and I get the reverse buzzer when I select REV but I got no movement still. I followed the "Detailed Troubleshooting Guide" on pg F-10 ultimately telling me to change the motor.

Tonight I got the new motor and put it in with the same results. Push the petal and it does not go. I reran the tree on F-15 and its pointing back to the controller.

Is there something outside of the controller I should consider?

Would the 250 ohm resister cause it to not go (how can I check the resister operation with a standard ohm meter?) (I have 200 and 2K ((lowest)) settings on my meter, when I set it to 2K I get .253 ohms. Does that sound right? I was thinking it should be around .135 but I may be way off base lol.

I've tried to check the ITS but with a suspect controller I dont feel too confident in any of the readings I'm seeing.

Any help is appreciated, I hope I've provided enough info.


28646-G01 is the manual I am using.

I have had very good luck using the troubleshooting steps per below. However, it does require you to be able to backprobe the connections.

http://www.fsip.biz/Documents/EZ-GO%...%20Control.pdf

[badabing7]

AWESOME!! Thanks for this!

Here is what I got

EVERYTHING checked good up until:

Sheet 3 last step

J5 Pin 2 With drive wheels off the ground, s-l-o-w-l-y turn the drive wheel by hand. Your meter should toggle between approximately 0 and 5 volts:

I read a constant 4.9v (moving or not).

It says to check the motor magnet. If the magnet is cracked/damaged, replace magnet and recheck. If magnet is good, Speed Sensor or wiring is at fault.

My motor is brand new (installed last night) so I'm assuming the speed sensor? I cant get a new one until tomorrow (hopefully).

Is there any way to bypass with the Curtis Controller? (just trying to see if I can make it 100% that this is the issue).

Would the speed sensor cause the motor to not move at all?

Thanks again!

[badabing7]

I found the issue with my speed sensor! I neglected to take the magnet off of the old motor, that has been done and now it fluctuates between 0 and 5 v as advertised.

So now I feel safe in saying my controller seems to be working....

Safe to assume my next step is the pedal assembly?

[JohnnieB]

I take it you have now completed all steps in the checklist and the cart still doesn't run.

Does the solenoid click when pedal is pushed?

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FWIW:
The resistor will not keep cart from running. Also, If you measured .253 on the 2kΩ scale, the reading id 0.253kΩ or 253Ω. So the 250Ω resistor is within specs.

The speed sensor will not keep cart from running. It will however, run in a reduced performance mode.

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BTW: If all the steps for J4 in the mid part of Pg-3 passed, you have already checked out the pedal switch and ITS sensor.

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Put the controller into diagnostic mode per text at bottom of attached PDS label and listen for error codes being beeped.

[badabing7]

JohnnieB -

the solenoid does click when the pedal is pressed.

I ran the self-diagnostic and I get one short beep then it goes into a continuous beep.

[JohnnieB]

Solenoid clicks, so problem is in high current circuits. (Thick cables etc.)

Connect DVM between controller's B- terminal and M- terminal.
When pedal is pushed just far enough to make solenoid click, you should read battery pack voltage.

IF you do not, there is an open someplace in the high current (thick) cables, connections or contacts.

If you do, slowly press pedal to floor and voltage ought to smoothly decrease to near 0V.

If it doesn't check the ITS throttle voltages and check out motor.

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Gotta run for now.

[badabing7]

JohnnieB I’m not sure where the M1 terminal is, I found an m1 on the Series controller schematic.

I went ahead and checked voltage between B- and A1 (hoping they were the same). I have a constant 35.5v with no change from pedal position (also 35.5v when key is off and tow switch is in tow)

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by badabing7

JohnnieB I’m not sure where the M1 terminal is, I found an m1 on the Series controller schematic.

I went ahead and checked voltage between B- and A1 (hoping they were the same). I have a constant 35.5v with no change from pedal position (also 35.5v when key is off and tow switch is in tow)

Sorry, I keep forgetting Curtis uniquely labeled the M- terminal on the 1206MX (PDS) controller, unlike the way it is labeled on their 1206 (Series), 1206SX (DCS) and 1206HB (TXT4 controllers. Yes A1 terminal is same as M- (Motor Negative).

FWIW: In all four of EZGO's different DC drive systems, B+ (Battery Positive) is connected directly to the motor (albeit via one or more sets of contacts) while B- (Battery Negative) is connected via the speed control element (MOSFETs) in the controller.

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When the solenoid contacts are closed, the voltage ought to be exactly the same as the battery pack voltage. It should be a few voltage less than battery pack voltage when solenoid contacts are open. Is 35.5 your battery pack voltage?????? If so, it is dangerously low. (About 30% charge)

Not decreasing means the controller is not getting a throttle signal (ITS issues), or is getting one and not responding to it (bad controller).

The ITS checkout starts on page F-20 in the service manual you have.

[JohnnieB]

Oops, missed one other possibility.
If the 35.5 isn't exactly the same a the battery pack voltage, it could mean the solenoid contacts are bad. In other word, the solenoid clicks, but the contacts don't make good contact.

When contacts are closed, both large terminals will have EXACTLY the same voltage.