2012 RXV brake problem - Curtis Controller

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by agpfl

In Ft. Lauderdale

The run plug and assembly is there but not used. You can tell all the wires were corroded. Looking at the wiring diagram, it looks like there should be 6 wires that run to the run plug area. 3 red, 2 black, and 1 black-white. All are there and accounted for. 2 pairs of those wires are twisted together.

I did not dee the Run Plug or the Run Plug socket in your photo. It's a 9 pin polarized socket and a 9 pin polarized plug. If it's corroded, you can always go buy a new socket and plug with pins and replace it. I have to get on the road, too much to do today to add more.

[agpfl]

The brake light still comes on whether in tow or run.

When the cart is in tow and turned on the electric parking brake releases, but I can only push the cart an inch forward or reverse. When the cart is turned off, I can't even budge the cart. Something is still keeping the cart from rolling that is not the parking brake. If I press the brake pedal all the way down, I hear the electric parking brake engage.

When the cart is in run and turned on it lurches forward then back, but can still only push cart forward or back an inch.
When the cart is in tow and turned on, and then while the key is still on switched to run, I am able to freely push the cart.
When the cart is in run and turned on, and then while the key is still on switched to tow, I am able to freely push the cart.

If the electric parking brake is removed from the motor and still plugged in I have repeated the above 4 tests with the same results. I believe its the motor that is preventing the cart from rolling freely.

I disassembled and cleaned the electric parking brake and believe it is ok. Tested the brake cable for 48v and verified 25.5ohms on the brake.

I verified the run plug wiring was correct. One +48v red wire connected to another red wire with no voltage (the third red wire that is not connected to anything also has +48v). The black wire with no voltage connected to the black-white wire (the second black wire that is not connected has -48v).

I checked all inline fuses by the run/tow cover (total of 5).

I plan to perform the brake pedal tests according to the troubleshooting guide tomorrow.
What is the next troubleshooting step I can perform? Do I need to probe the controller pins and check for proper voltage?

[agpfl]

Probed both the throttle and brake switches and they appear to operate within the 0.35v and 4.8v range.

Any next step suggestions?

May be time to locate some local to Ft. Lauderdale that has a handheld programmer to read the errors.

[cgtech]

If the cart still "jumps" when the key is turned on, it's still failing the brake test

[HiTechRedNeck]

As CGtech said if cart lurches foreward and back it is failing the "Twist-Test" at startup
this will disable the cart.

Replace parking brake -- do not overtighten bolts...

*************we should put parking brake replacement instructions in stickie

[agpfl]

I rebuilt it. With cart off it there is no power to it and the cart does not roll.

When I turn the cart on power gets applied to it and the cart can roll.

If I push the brake all the way down the brake engages and the cart will not move. I hear the click from the parking brake engaging.

Is there something else the cart does/tests on the brake that I am missing? Isn't it as simple as if there is 48v to the brake it will release?

There is way more history to this cart than I ever expected, so its not like the cart was fully running and then one thing broke. I did not have the full story when I started working on it. Already resolved 3 other problems and sure there are still more to come (replaced solenoid as one terminal was over tightened and spinning free, found positive charger terminal and interlock connected to battery #2 instead of #1, found run plug wires had corroded out of adapter and been incorrectly connected to each other)

[HiTechRedNeck]

if cart lurches during start up self test cart detects brake is not working properly.

if parking brake fails test cart will not run.

common problem with weak parking brake.
You cant push cart but motor can.

[agpfl]

OK, Thanks! I will try a replacement and report back.

I was under the impression it was something which either works or does not. Did not know there was a middle ground which would still cause a failure situation.

[agpfl]

Replaced the brake and still no change.

Got a Curtis 1313 dealer level programmer and see error of #EM Brake Coil Missing.

When I turn the key on, I hear the brake release, but never locks again during the POST test. If I hold down the brake pedal, the cart does not lurch, but still fails the test.

I found the red and purple wires that run to the relay under the drink holder area had once been cut so I disconnected them just to see what voltage I had. One side of the red had +48v and the other had nothing. I was expecting similar from the purple wire, but to my surprise one side had +48v and the other -48v.

I have no clue where to even go from here. I feel like every place I look on this cart has a new surprise.

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by agpfl

Replaced the brake and still no change.

Got a Curtis 1313 dealer level programmer and see error of #EM Brake Coil Missing.

When I turn the key on, I hear the brake release, but never locks again during the POST test. If I hold down the brake pedal, the cart does not lurch, but still fails the test.

I found the red and purple wires that run to the relay under the drink holder area had once been cut so I disconnected them just to see what voltage I had. One side of the red had +48v and the other had nothing. I was expecting similar from the purple wire, but to my surprise one side had +48v and the other -48v.

I have no clue where to even go from here. I feel like every place I look on this cart has a new surprise.

This is why we advise RXV owners to stay away from modifying or even putting a meter on the factory harness. Yours was done by someone prior to you getting it, so it's not your fault. It sounds like the previous owner did a lot of damage by trying to troubleshoot the issue. There are likely multiple problems now, including possible controller issues caused by the probing of that previous owner. Nearly all controller I/O pins are multi-state, in that they are both outputs to control things, as well as inputs to sense the status of what they are controlling.

It's going to take a multi-stage approach. A replacement harness to test everything on the cart , and a replacement controller to test with after. Then a full diagnostic on your controller itself that is beyond the capability of the Curtis handset. I would not risk connecting a replacement controller to your existing harness, until after it passes a wire by wire, connector by connector, inspection and repair.

I have the hardware and software to test with, but you are a long ways from me. I don't know when the next time will be that I will be in the S Florida area again. I was just down there a few months ago.

Bob