01-15-2022, 04:35 PM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Nov 2021
Posts: 45
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92 ds drum brakes
Hey everyone, recently I upgraded my cart to 48 volts and now has top speed of 25-26 which is great. Problem now is about a week ago the brakes started to get weak and barely stops the golf cart. Had an issue with this about a year ago but I found that the adjuster bolt on the brake cable was completely frozen/rusted. So I hit that with a torch and was able to free it up to adjust the cable properly. Brakes worked good for about a year but now are trash again. Readjusting the cable did nothing so I popped the drums off and had wife hit the brake pedal so I could inspect inside. I noticed the pads in the front won't move at all. Not sure if it's supposed to do that or if the star adjuster is frozen. The adjuster bolt outside of the drum right above the axel will not move what so ever. I took both brakes apart and cleaned/greased but still does the same thing. Pads have a little bit of meat left but I am going to order new pads anyway. Are both pads suppose to move forward or just the back pads suppose to move? Seems like the front pads are frozen which is causing them not to contact the drum.
Sorry I know that's a lot but just trying to explain everything 😅. Any help is greatly appreciated. Drum brakes sucks big time lmao. |
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01-16-2022, 07:53 AM | #2 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 1,720
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Re: 92 ds drum brakes
Screenshot (3).png
Here is a screenshot of the parts. Hopefully that will help you make sense of the system. It's been quite a while since I had mine a part, so I can not say with confidence, but I believe both shoes should move. Hope this helps. |
01-16-2022, 09:50 AM | #3 |
Born to be Wild
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Palm Harbor Florida
Posts: 2,729
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Re: 92 ds drum brakes
Both shoes should move, just like on a car. If you're doing any kind of performance upgrades I would upgrade the brakes to disc. I prefer adding Jakes disc's on the front but a lot of people have added the Ausco disc's to the rear. Only problem with upgrading just the rears is under emergency or hard braking, you could spin out and lose control. While you're at it, use anti-seize grease to anything with threads.
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01-16-2022, 10:07 AM | #4 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Nov 2021
Posts: 45
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Re: 92 ds drum brakes
That what I figured since I've done tons of drum brakes on cars and have never seen just one pad not move unless the wheel cylinder was frozen or leaking fluid. But wasn't sure since golf cart is a little different. Kinda odd that both side would freeze up at once. It's both front pads the rear pads move perfectly. I took apart the passenger side to grease backing plates and cleaned dust with brake cleaner. Still can't get it to move freely. I guess that to adjuster is frozen because the adjuster bolt right above the axel is completely rusted to hell. I guess I'll unbolt it and hit it with the torch to free it up. Definitely considering a disc brake conversion. On cars I can do disc brakes in less the 30 mins per side but drum brake suck *** and always end up with some battle scars lol
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01-16-2022, 10:17 AM | #5 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Dundee quebec
Posts: 3,190
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Re: 92 ds drum brakes
Drum brakes generally work dependably for what they were designed for. Disc brakes up here, especially on the rear axle are a RPIA as they seize up due to corrosion, or the rotors rot, at a young age where enclosed drum brakes generally don't.
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01-16-2022, 12:22 PM | #6 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Nov 2021
Posts: 45
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Re: 92 ds drum brakes
That's true but drums can also rust to the hub but good couple whacks usually gets them off. I don't live up north anymore I'm in florida now so I don't have to worry about that too much anymore.ive always got over 200k miles on all my cars stock disc brake cause I always keep them well greases and replaced the rotors everytime. Drums are nasty cause the dust and the springs are pain in the *** to get on while the bearing/hub assembly is in the way. On my golf cart its all rusty from being 30 years old. I've replaced a lot of bolts on it with new bolts but the brakes are the next step. Thanks for all the help
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01-17-2022, 10:17 PM | #7 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2021
Posts: 156
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Re: 92 ds drum brakes
back the pedal adjustment off under the floor then adjust the brakes at the rear end, where the cable hooks to the brake lever on the backing plate is a slider/equalizer it needs to move freely for the front shoe to operate but usually will not until the drum is in place, anyways after adjusting at the rearend with drums on, tighten brake adjusters until you feel the pads deagging on the drums then back the adjuster off 3 to 4 1/4 turns when both sides are adjusted the readjust the pedal height
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01-18-2022, 08:16 PM | #8 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Nov 2021
Posts: 45
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Re: 92 ds drum brakes
The cable moves freely at the bottom of the drum already. I can even move the cable with my finger and watch the pads move. Back pad moves fine but the fronts won't move at all. Also the when the drum is on and I spin it they barely drag on the pads like they are supposed too. Bottom slider move freely but the top one with the adjustment bolt is rusted to hell. What's odd is that the adjuster up by the pedal got really loose and I had to free up the rusty adjuster bolt. Once I freed it up and adjusted it the brakes would lock the tires up. Now a year later they barely stop so I tried messing with the pedal adjuster but nothing worked. I know the pedal adjuster is suppose to have a small amount of play but if I tighten it the brakes get worse lol.
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01-24-2022, 11:01 AM | #9 | |
Getting Wild
Join Date: Jan 2021
Posts: 104
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Re: 92 ds drum brakes
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