Is this starter worth fixing?

[bersh]

I've been having issues with my starter for a couple years. Last yer I took it off the cart and cleaned everything up, but couldn't get brushes locally and be the time I ordered them and they came in the cart was back together and running fine. Last week the cart started acting up again by only clicking, not starting the engine. The problem was getting more frequent and happening every couple holes, and when it did I had to pop the seat and smack it with an iron to get it working again. Here are pics of the brushes and armature. I have a set of brushes, but is the armature worth trying to dress up and use?

[DOOmsman]

Bersh it should be a requirement to post location in post or header.

A good generator rebuilder can turn that down and you will get
more life from it.

[bersh]

Sorry, just updated my profile. I'm in Houghton, Michigan. We don't have any local shops to service these to that extent, so I'd be stuck sending it out somewhere. From what I've seen online, a new armature would cost more than a new starter on ebay. It's pretty worn, so I'm not sure how much more it could be turned down as that groove is probably 3/32" deep, if not a touch more.

Thanks.

[DOOmsman]

Hey i have raced in Houghton thats not the rear end of the world
Copper city is.

Chech with your largest parts store in your area.

[roady89]

You might be able to save it...take it to a motor/alternator shop and see what they can do. If the guy chucks it in a lathe or drill press and uses emory cloth on it instead of cutting it RUN to another re-builder.

[smallblock450sl]

I don't say this much, but WOW! That armature comutator end is worn out. I can't remember seeing one that worn. Useually when the brushes wear or stick, you get a "arched/damaged" comutator between the segments. Those are aftermarket brushes and very worn, the armature can't be turned at that stage, either buy a starter/generator complete or buy a new armature and new brushes. Thanks for the pictures, it really helps.

[technoid]

Originally Posted by bersh

I've been having issues with my starter for a couple years. Last yer I took it off the cart and cleaned everything up, but couldn't get brushes locally and be the time I ordered them and they came in the cart was back together and running fine. Last week the cart started acting up again by only clicking, not starting the engine. The problem was getting more frequent and happening every couple holes, and when it did I had to pop the seat and smack it with an iron to get it working again. Here are pics of the brushes and armature. I have a set of brushes, but is the armature worth trying to dress up and use?

I know your starter looks worn out but, I would check the starter solenoid too. Bad contacts can cause the clicking you described. Bad solenoid contacts will cause a voltage drop at the brushes making for over heating. Causing more wear than normal on the commutator. When you hit the starter you may have jared the contacts thinking it was the starter. Check your battery cables and connections too. The smallest amount of resistance, even an 1/2 ohm can cause problems.

[bersh]

Originally Posted by technoid

I know your starter looks worn out but, I would check the starter solenoid too. Bad contacts can cause the clicking you described. Bad solenoid contacts will cause a voltage drop at the brushes making for over heating. Causing more wear than normal on the commutator. When you hit the starter you may have jared the contacts thinking it was the starter. Check your battery cables and connections too. The smallest amount of resistance, even an 1/2 ohm can cause problems.

The solenoid only makes a single click, which is what it's supposed to do, and from the testing I did with the voltmeter before I tore the starter out it seems to be fine. All of the solenoids I've seen go bad in vehicles and plows either don't click at all, or fire off like a machine gun (or semi-auto).

[technoid]

Originally Posted by bersh

The solenoid only makes a single click, which is what it's supposed to do, and from the testing I did with the voltmeter before I tore the starter out it seems to be fine. All of the solenoids I've seen go bad in vehicles and plows either don't click at all, or fire off like a machine gun (or semi-auto).

So your telling me you placed your volt meter accross the solenoid power terminals with the starter in the circuit engaged and saw "0" volts across the solenoid? If you did then its good. I was an electrical service tech for large generators and motors for 33 yrs. This is the way I checked for bad contactors and switches. You should never see any voltage across a closed contact. A solenoid will still just click and be bad too.

[bersh]

Originally Posted by technoid

So your telling me you placed your volt meter accross the solenoid power terminals with the starter in the circuit engaged and saw "0" volts across the solenoid? If you did then its good. I was an electrical service tech for large generators and motors for 33 yrs. This is the way I checked for bad contactors and switches. You should never see any voltage across a closed contact. A solenoid will still just click and be bad too.

I don't quite understand what you're asking. I followed the instructions in the sticky on this forum, advice from other posts in this forum, advice from other forums, and my own personal experience. Based on all this, I ruled the solenoid out as it's doing it's job. There was 12.6 volts from the solenoid to the post on the starter, which is the same reading as I was getting at the battery.