2002 DS will not run, no back up alarm, no solenoid click

[Sergio]

If the cart was on Run, Key switch ON and FNR in Reverse, the buzzer should have sound and the cart moved.

To make sure the jumper is properly installed, just measure the voltage on the Blue wire on the Solenoid coil small terminal.

The voltage Should be +48v when the Tow/Run switch is ON.

Is this the cart You have?

[jeffg1010]

Originally Posted by Sergio

If the cart was on Run, Key switch ON and FNR in Reverse, the buzzer should have sound and the cart moved.

To make sure the jumper is properly installed, just measure the voltage on the Blue wire on the Solenoid coil small terminal.

The voltage Should be +48v when the Tow/Run switch is ON.

Is this the cart You have?

Yes, this is the correct diagram. with the key on, run tow switch in run mode, and the cart in reverse, I tried it again with no luck. I also tried to test the voltage at the blue wire on the solenoid and got nothing. I tested the voltage on the key switch and it showed around 51.4 so my multimeter is working.

[Sergio]

If You have power at the Key Switch but not on the Solenoid Blue wire positive activation, the jumper was not done right.

If You look at the diagram, power goes from the Tow/Run switch to both the key switch and the OBC White wire at the 6-pin connector.

The OBC sends power to the Solenoid Blue wire, Controller, FNR, buzzer, etc, through the Blue wire on the 6-pin connector...

The jumper needs to be on the harness side 6-pin connector (not the pigtail that goes to the OBC).

You want the jumper to complete the circuit between the White wire from the Tow/Run switch and the Blue wire that powers the cart on the 6-pin harness side connector.

[jeffg1010]

Originally Posted by Sergio

If You have power at the Key Switch but not on the Solenoid Blue wire positive activation, the jumper was not done right.

If You look at the diagram, power goes from the Tow/Run switch to both the key switch and the OBC White wire at the 6-pin connector.

The OBC sends power to the Solenoid Blue wire, Controller, FNR, buzzer, etc, through the Blue wire on the 6-pin connector...

The jumper needs to be on the harness side 6-pin connector (not the pigtail that goes to the OBC).

You want the jumper to complete the circuit between the White wire from the Tow/Run switch and the Blue wire that powers the cart on the 6-pin harness side connector.

I am running outside to test the jumper again. That sounds like what I did but I will give it another go. So, to confirm, I am inserting the paper clip into the female holes of the six pin connector that are connected to the white and blue wires? Can you explain again exactly how I am testing the voltage using the small post on the solenoid?

[Sergio]

If you have a quick connector on the solid blue wire at the solenoid, just unplug it and measure the voltage on the wire.

You can also pop the FNR switch off and measure the center terminal, red/white wire.

They both should have 48v when the Tow/Run switch is on Run.

[jeffg1010]

Man Sergio, I really appreciate your patience and advice, but I am still coming up with nothing. But I am a true rookie on this. On the multimeter, where am I to place the black and red probes to get the reading on a single blue wire?

[Sergio]

Sorry, unless otherwise noted, the meter negative/black probe goes on pack negative battery post.

The meter positive/red probe goes on the blue wire that you disconnect from the solenoid.

Set your meter for 200V DC setting if not auto scale.

If the dash if off you can also check the voltage on the buzzer red wire (meter positive) for 48v.

[jeffg1010]

Ok, I was back on it again this morning. With the black probe on the pack negative battery post and the red probe in the female terminal of the blue wire from the solenoid, and the paperclip shoved in the blue and white holes on the female plug for the harness, and the voltmeter set on 200V DC - I showed 1.5V on the blue solenoid wire and 1.7 on the red wire on the FNR switch wire. I again verified the pack charge and it is still showing 52.4

By pack negative battery post, you mean the negative post that goes to the OBC right?

I work in Charlotte, so when this is figured out, I am going to buy you a couple beers somewhere.

[Sergio]

You maybe be lucky, it looks like a bad sonic-weld which is a wire junction that has been cold-welded.

If You can safely measure the voltage on that paper clip, verify You get 48v there.

If so, trace the OBC blue wire back into the harness until You come to that "sonic-weld" connection where all the wires splice together.

You need to replace that with an end-cap crimp connection or solder the wires together.

[jeffg1010]

The run tow switch that I had ordered finally showed up yesterday and I swapped it out and it started running. - but not good.

Now, it's doing something else weird where it acts like it is getting sporadic power. Kind of like it's chattering like the batteries were low. But they shouldn't be. I am charging it up to confirm that isn't the issue, but any thoughts on that? Acts like motor.